Seam Performance of Nonwoven Apparel Fabrics

Year 2022, Volume: 26 Issue: 2, 314 - 320, 20.08.2022

Şükran Kara

https://doi.org/10.19113/sdufenbed.1063823

Abstract

Nonwoven fabrics have limited usage as durable apparel fabrics. Their relatively lower drape, mechanical properties and flexibility decrease their chance to be used as apparel fabrics. However, in the last decades, there are attempts to improve the nonwoven fabric properties in order to seize an opportunity for their use in durable apparel applications. At this point, usage of bicomponent fiber technology together with hydro-entanglement fixation method was found beneficial. In addition to the fabric properties, the suitability of nonwoven fabric for durable seams are quite important for their usability as apparel fabrics. Therefore, in this study, seam performance of nonwoven apparel fabrics made up of polyester: polyamide bicomponent fibers have been determined in order to reveal their usability for durable applications. For this purpose, nonwoven fabrics with 3 different unit masses were utilized. In order to mimic the seams of woven garments, nonwoven samples were sewn with lock stitch with 3 different stitch lengths. Results of the study showed that, unit mass was not a determinative factor for the seam performance of selected nonwoven samples. Also, it was inferred from the study that, sufficient seam strength and seam efficiency values could be obtained by using lower stitch lengths.

Keywords

Nonwoven, Apparel, Seam strength, Sewn seam, Lock stitch, Seam efficiency

Thanks

Nonwoven fabrics of the study were kindly supplied from Mogul Tekstil San. Tic. A.S. (Gaziantep, Turkey). Sewing yarn was supplied kindly from Coats Turkiye Iplik San. A.S. (Bursa, Turkey). The author thanks the companies for their supports.

Dokusuz Yüzey Giysilik Kumaşların Dikim Performansları

Abstract

Dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dayanıklı giysilerde kullanımı kısıtlıdır. Bu kumaşların görece düşük dökümlülüğe, mekanik özelliklere ve esnekliğe sahip olması, onların giysiliklerde kullanılması şansını azaltmaktadır. Buna karşılık son yıllarda, dokusuz yüzey kumaşların giysilerde kullanım olanaklarının artırılması amacıyla, kumaş özelliklerini geliştirmek üzere çalışmalar yapılmaktadır. Bu noktada, bikomponent lif çekim teknolojisi ile su jetli fiksasyon metotlarının birlikte kullanılması faydalı olmuştur. Kumaş özelliklerine ek olarak, dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dayanıklı dikimler oluşturabilmesi de giysilik olarak kullanılabilirlikleri açısından oldukça önemlidir. Bu nedenle, bu çalışma kapsamında, poliester:poliamid bikomponent lifleri kullanılarak üretilmiş dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dikim performansları incelenmiştir. Bu amaçla, 3 farklı gramaja sahip kumaş kullanılmıştır. Dokuma giysilere benzetilmesi amacıyla dokusuz yüzey kumaşlar çift baskı dikişi ile 3 farklı dikiş uzunluğunda dikilmiştir. Çalışmanın sonuçlarına göre; seçilmiş dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dikiş mukavemetinde gramajın belirleyici bir faktör olmadığı görülmüştür. Ayrıca, daha düşük dikiş uzunluğu ile yeterli seviyede dikiş mukavemeti ve dikim verimliliği elde edildiği belirlenmiştir.

Keywords

Dokusuz yüzey kumaş, Giysi, Dikiş mukavemeti, Dikiş yeri, Çift baskı dikişi, Dikim verimliliği

References

• [1] Nonwovens, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA). https://www.inda.org/about-nonwovens/ (Access date: 11.01.2022)
• [2] Batra, S. K., Pourdeyhimi, B. 2012. Introduction to nonwovens technology. DEStech Publications Inc., USA.
• [3] Karthik, T., Prabha Karan, C., Rathinamoorthy, R., eds. 2017. Nonwovens: Process, structure, properties and applications. WPI Publishing, India.
• [4] EDANA, “Why use nonwovens in clothing and footwear?”. https://www.edana.org/nw-related-industry/nonwovens-in-daily-life/clothing-and-footwear (Access date: 11.01.2022)
• [5] Kayar, M., Mistik, S. I., Inan, D. 2015. Analysing effect of the factors on ultrasonic seam tensile properties of nonwoven fabrics by Nested Anova Design. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 27(6), 803-817.
• [6] Madaline, http://www.madalinefabric.com/en/technical-features/process (Access date: 11.01.2022)
• [7] Evolon, https://www.freudenberg-pm.com/Materials/evolon (Access date: 11.01.2022)
• [8] Kurumer, G. 2012. Konfeksiyon üretimi ve teknolojisi, Printer Ofset Matbaacılık, Izmir.
• [9] Jones, I., Stylios, G. K. eds. 2013. Joining textiles: Principles and applications. Woodhead Publishing, USA.
• [10] Seif, M. A., Nasr, M. M. 2016. A comparative study of assembling methods of nonwoven bags traditional sewing vs welding seaming. International Journal of General Engineering and Technology (IJGET), 5(6), 7-22.
• [11] Eryuruk, S. H., Kayaoglu, B. K., Kalaoglu, F. 2017. A study on ultrasonic welding of nonwovens used for surgical gowns. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 29(4), 539-552.
• [12] Grineviciute, D., Valaseviciute, L., Narviliene, V., Dubinskaite, K., Abelkiene, R. 2014. Investigation of sealed seams properties of moisture barrier layer in firefighters clothing. Materials Science, 20(2), 198-204.
• [13] Yıldız, E. Z., Boz, S., Pamuk, O. 2017. An investigation on the seam tensile properties of ultrasonically bonded nonwoven fabrics. Industria Textila, 68(2), 126-130.
• [14] Kayar, M. 2014. Analysis of ultrasonic seam tensile properties of thermal bonded nonwoven fabrics. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 9(3), 8-18.
• [15] Boz, S., Erdogan, M. Ç. 2011. Ultrasonic energy usage in apparel industry. Textile and Apparel, 21(1), 91-96.
• [16] TS EN ISO 13935-2. 2014. Textiles- Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles - Part 2: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the grab method. Turkish Standards Institution, Turkey.
• [17] ASTM D1683/D1683M – 17. 2018. Standard test method for failure in sewn seams of woven fabrics. ASTM International, West Conshohocken.
• [18] Moyo, D., Anandjiwala, R. D., Patnaik, A. 2017. Micromechanics of hydroentangled nonwoven fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 87(2), 135-146.
• [19] Durany, A., Anantharamaiah, N., Pourdeyhimi, B. 2009. High surface area nonwovens via fibrillating spunbonded nonwovens comprising Islands-in-the-Sea bicomponent filaments: structure–process–property relationships. Journal of Materials Science, 44(21), 5926-5934.
• [20] Ujevic, D., Kovacevic, S. 2004. Impact of the seam on the properties of technical and nonwoven textiles for making car seat coverings. International Nonwovens Journal, INJ Spring 2004 (1), 33-41.
• [21] Gurarda A. 2019. Seam performance of garments. ss. 17-30. Uddin, F., ed. 2019. Textile Manufacturing Processes. Intechopen, UK.
• [22] Mukhopadhyay, A, Midha, V. K. 2013. The quality and performance of sewn seams. ss. 175-207. Jones, I., Stylios, G. K., eds. 2013. Joining textiles. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge.