Comparison of static and dynamic balance parameters and some performance characteristics in rock climbers of different levels

Abstract

The aim of the present study was to compare anthropometric characteristics, dynamic balance and physical performances of climbers at recreational and intermediate levels. Climbers were seperated in two groups according to climbing difficulty levels.  A total of 24 male rock climbers; 16 at beginner level (mean ± sd; 26.2 ± 4.2 years, climbing grade; 6a/6a+ ) and 8 intermediate level (mean ± sd; 30.8 ± 4.9 years, climbing grade; 7c/7c+)  participated voluntariliy in the study Measurements were taken from both groups for anthropometric (body height, weight, body fat ratio, skinfolds, humerus breadth, arm span), intermittent finger hang (IFH), bent-arm hang and hand grip strength. Static (open/closed eyes) and dynamic balance was measured with isokinetic balance test on a force platform. Differences between groups were calculated using an independent samples t-test and also Mann-Whitney U test was used for nonparametric values. As a result, advance group has significantly greater values for limits of stability, humerus breadth, ape index and IFH (p<0.05). No significant difference was found between groups for the other balance parameters, anthropometric characteristics and climbing performance factors. In consequence, static balance parameters of rock climbers were found to be similar to those of other elite athletes in the literature. On the other hand, dynamic balance could be considered to be a more important parameter than static balance for climbers by the nature of the sport. 

Keywords

• Balance,rock climbing,strength,performance

References

1. 1. Aalto H., Pyykkö I., Ilmarinen R., Kähkönen E., Starck J. Postural stability in shooters. Journal for Oto-rhino-laryngology, 1990; 52(4): 232-8.
2. 2. Akuthota V., Nadler SF. Core strengthening. Archives of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, 2004; 85(3 Suppl 1): S86-92.
3. 3. Baláš J., Strejcová B., Malý T., Malá L., Martin AJ. Changes in upper body strength and body composition after 8 weeks indoor climbing in youth. Isokinetic and Exercise Science, 2009; 17(3): 173-9.
4. 4. Chapman DW., Needham KJ., Allison GT., Edwards DJ. Effect of experience in a dynamic environment on postural control. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2008; 42(1): 16-21.
5. 5. Era P., Konttinen P., Mehto P., Saarela P., Lyytinen H. Postural stability and skilled performance: a study on top-level and naive rifle shooters. Journal of Biomechanics, 1996; 29(3): 301-6.
6. 6. Fitzpatrick R., McCloskey DI. Proprioceptive, visual and vestibular thresholds for the perception of sway during standing in humans. The Journal of Physiology, 1994; 478:173-6.
7. 7. Giles LV., Rhodes EC., Taunton JE. The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Medicine, 2006; 36(6): 529-45.
8. 8. Goktepe M., Gunay M., Bezci S., Bayram M., Özkan A. Correlations between different methods of vertical jump and static balance parameters in athletes. Turkish Journal of Sport and Exercise, 2016;18(1): 147-52.

9. 9. Grant S., Hasler T., Davies C., Aitchison TC., Wilson J., Whittaker A. A comparison of the anthropometric, strength endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers. Journal of Sports Science, 2001; 19(7): 499-505.
10. 10. Grant S., Hynes V., Whittaker A., Aitchison TC. Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Science. 1996; 14(4): 301-9.
11. 1. Gribble PA., Hertel J., Denegar CR. Chronic ankle instability and fatigue create proximal joint alterations during performance of the Star Excursion Balance Test. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 2007; 28(3): 236-242.
12. 2. Hrysomallis C. Balance Ability and Athletic Performance. Sports Medicine, 2011; 41(3): 221-32.
13. 3. Hrysomallix C, Goodman C A. Review of resistance exercise and posture realignment. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 2001; 15(3): 385-90.
14. 4. Hughes MA., Schenkman ML., Chandler JM., Studenski SA. Postural responses to platform perturbation: kinematics and electromyography. Clinical Biomechanics, 1995; 10 (6): 318-22.
15. 5. Mariusz O., Marcin K., Emilian Z., Zbigniew B., Tadeusz A., Arkadiusz S., Adam J., Dariusz M. Somatic profile of the elite boulderers in Poland. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research; Publish Ahead of Print.
16. 6. Niinimaa V., McAvoy T. Influence of exercise on body sway in standing rifle shooting position. Canadian Journal of Applied Sport Sciences, 1983; 8(1): 30-3.
17. 7. Noe´ F., Amarantinia D., Paillard T. How experienced alpine-skiers cope with restrictions of ankle degrees-of-freedom when wearing ski-boots in postural exercises. Journal of Electromyography and Kinesiology, 2009; 19(2): 341-6.
18. 8. Noe´ F., Paillard T. Is postural control affected by expertise in alpine skiing? British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2005; 39: 835-7.
19. 9. Olmsted LC., Hertel J. Influence of foot type and orthotics on static and dynamic postural-control. Journal of Sport Rehabilitation, 2004; 13(1): 54-66.
20. 10. Paillard T., Costes-Salon C., Lafont C., Dupui P. Are there differences in postural regulation according to the level of competition in judoists? British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2002; 36(4): 304-5.
21. 21. Paillard T., Noe F., Riviere T., Marion V., Montoya R., Dupui P. Postural performance and strategy in the unipedal stance of soccer players at different levels of competition. Journal of Athletic Training, 2006; 41(2): 172-6.
22. 22. Perrin P., Perrin C., Courant P., Béné MC., Durupt D. Posture in basketball players. Acta Oto-rhino-laryngologica Belgica, 1991; 45(3): 341-7.
23. 23. Phillips KC., Sassaman JM., Smoliga JM. Optimizing rock climbing performance through sport-specific strength and conditioning. Strength and Conditioning Journal, 2012; 34(3): 1-18.
24. 24. Santos L., Fernández-Río J., Fernández-García B., Jakobsen MD., González-Gómez L., Suman OE. Effects of slackline training on postural control, jump performance, and myoelectrical activity in female basketball players. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 2016; 30(3): 653-64.
25. 25. Sheel A. Physiology of sport rock climbing. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2004; 38(3): 355-9.
26. 26. Şimşek D., Ertan H. Postural kontrol ve spor: spor branşlarına yönelik postural sensör-motor stratejiler ve postural salınım. Spormetre, Beden Eğitimi ve Spor Bilimleri Dergisi, 2011; 9(3): 81-90.
27. 27. Taskın C., Karakoc O., Sanıoglu A., Taskın M. Investigation of postural balance control in judo and handball players. Turkish Journal of Sport and Exercise, 2015; 17(1): 92-5.
28. 28. Vuillerme N., Danion F., Marin L., Boyadjian A., Prieur JM., Weise I., Nougier V. The effect of expertise in gymnastics on postural control. Neuroscience Letters, 2001; 303: 83-6.
29. 29. Vuillerme N., Teasdale N., Nougier V. The effect of expertise in gymnastics on proprioceptive sensory integration in human subjects. Neuroscience Letters, 2001; 311(2): 73-6.
30. 30. Vuillerme N., Nougier V. Attentional demand for regulating postural sway: the effect of expertise in gymnastics. Brain Research Bulletin, 2004; 63: 161-5.
31. 32. Watts PB., Joubert LM., Lish AK., Mast JD., Wilkins B. Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climber. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 2003; 37(5): 420-4.
32. 33. Winter DA., Patla AE., Frank JS. Assessment of balance control in humans. Medical Progress Through Technology Journal, 1990; 16(1-2): 31-51.