Etik Modanın Temsiliyeti Bağlamında Vaatleri ve Çelişkileri: ‘Etik Moda’ Ne Kadar Etik Sunuluyor?

Şölen Kipöz; Duygu Atalay

doi:10.17484/yedi.98156

-

Yıl 2015, Sayı: 14, 101 - 115, 24.06.2015

Şölen Kipöz , Duygu Atalay

https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.98156

Cited By: 6

Öz

Realization of devastating effects of fast fashion production and consumption strategies led embracement of an ethical and ecological design understanding that ensures redefinition of fashion. Thus, ethical fashion developed creative discourses such as ‘Slow Fashion Movement’ and gained a structure that praises local crafts, fair trade, multifunctional design products, participatory design, use of environmentally friendly materials and upcycled designs. However, it has also been assimilated via commercialization by the global fashion economy. While ethical fashion is transformed into a trend which can be consumed within the frame of dominant fashion system, it remained limited as an alternative design movement that is supported by the niche media which is transmitted through digital domain. Within this paper, in regards to design and production strategies of ethical fashion, discursive and commercial representations of it are analyzed by backcasting the literal and visual representations of ethical fashion in conventional and alternative media. Thereby the promise of ‘being ethical’ that ethical fashion propounds is dechipered through the media analysis

Anahtar Kelimeler

Ethical Fashion, Ethical Fashion Discourse, Representation of Fashion, Fashion Media, Online Magazine Publishing

Kaynakça

Arnold, R. (2009). ‘Ethics’ in Fashion: A very Short Introduction. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Baudrillard, J. (1972). “Requiem for the Media”, The New Media Reader, s.277-288.
Baudrillard, J. (1981). For a Critique of the Political Economy of the Sign Paperback, Telos Press Publishing.
Black, S. (2008). Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing.
Braungart, M. and McDonough, W. (2009).Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things,. London: Vintage.
Breward, C. (1995).The Culture of Fashion Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Brown. S. (2010). Ecofashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
Chapman, J. and Gant, N. (2007).Designers, Visionaries and Other Stories: A Collection of Sustainable Design Essays. Sterling: Earthscan.
Clark, Hazel. (2008). “Slow+Fashion- an Oxymoron- or a Promise for the Future...?”,Fashion Theory, cilt. 12, sayı.4, s. 427–446.
Craik, J. (1993).The Face of Fashion.London; New York: Routledge.
Craik, J. (2009). Fashion: The Key Concepts. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Currie, D.H. (1994). “Going Green” Mythologies of Consumption in Adolescent Magazines,Youth Society. Erişim Yeri: Sage database [Şubat 15, 2012]
Derycke, L. & Van de Veire, S. (1999).Belgian Fashion Design, Ludion, Antwerp, p. 292, P Mears, ‘Fraying the Edges: Fashion and Deconstruction’içinde , Mears, P. & Sidlauskas S. (ed), (2006), Skin+Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture içinde, Thames and Hudson Pub., London, s. 35.
Dilnot, C., (2009). “Ethics in Design: 10 Questions”, Design Studies: A Reader, ed. Clark, H., Brody, s. 180-190.
Erlhoff, M. and Marshall, T. (ed) (2008).Design Dictionary: Perspectives on Design Terminology. Basel: Birkhäuser Verlag
Evans, C.,(1998). The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela: Exhibition,Fashion Theory, vol. 2 Issue 1: 83, Berg publishers.
Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Malta: Earthscan.
Healy, R. (2007). The Parody of Motley Cadaver: Displaying the Funeral of Fashion’ in EAD 07 Conference Proceedings: Dancing with Disorder. Design Discourse Disaster.Balcıoğlu T., Tombuş Ö.Ç., Irkdaş, D(Ed)s.660-667.Izmir University of Economics
Herman, A. and Swiss, T. eds. (2000).The World Wide Web and Contemporary Cultural Theory. Newyork: Routledge.
Kawamura, Y. (2005). Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Kipöz, Ş (2013) ‘Slow Fashion Ethics: Reproduction of Memory through Deconstruction’, EAD 2013 Conference Proceedings: Crafting the Future, Erişim Yeri: http://www.trippus.se/web/ presentation/web.aspx?evid=qTCRaT4TJ70WGtClyjpKRA== &ecid=vajn7H5hFUL31Hr+Q9enuw==&ln=eng&emid=3JGso ZYZLLIcleu9tHBhtg==&view=infopage&template=desktop
Kipöz, Ş., Güner, D. (2011). Conceptual Resistance of Hussein Chalayan within the Ephemeral World of Fashion in Fashions: Exploring Fashion through Culture, Foltyn, J. L. (Editor).Oxford: The Inter-Disciplinary Press.
Loschek, I. (2009).When Clothes become Fashion: Design and Innovation Systems. London: Berg Publishers.
Manzini, E. (1995). Prometheus of the Everyday in Discovering Design: Explorations in Design studies. Margolin, V., Buchanan, R. (eds) s.219-243. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Margolin, V. (2002). “Design for a Sustainable World”, Politics of the Artificial, s.92-105. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Mears, P. and Sidlauskas, S., (ed). (2006). ‘Fraying the Edges: Fashion and Deconstruction’, in Skin+Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture, London: Thames and Hudson Pub.
O’shaughnessy, M. and Stadler, J. (2008).Media and Society. Sydney: Oxford University Press.
Rocamora, A. (2009).Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media. London& New York: I.B.Tauris & Co Ltd.
Sanders, A. And Seager, K. (2009).Junky Styling Wardrobe Surgery. London: A&C Publishers.
Scaturro, S. (2008). Eco-tech Fashion: Rationalizing Technology in Sustainable Fashion. Fashion Theory, vol. 12, issue.4, s. 469– 489
Shinkle, E., ed. (2008).Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion.London: I.B. Tauris & Co Ltd.
Thomas, S. (2008). From Green Blur to Ecofashion: Fashioning an Eco-lexicon,Fashion Theory, vol. 12, issue.4, s. 525–540.
Thorpe, A. (2010). Design’s Role in Sustainable Consumption, Design Issues, vol.26.no.2, Chicago: Mit Press.
Welters, L. and Lillethun, A., eds. (2007). The Fashion Reader. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Winge, Theresa M. (2008). “Green is the New Black: Celebrity Chic and the “Green” Commodity Fetish”, Fashion Theory (12/4): 511–524.
Whiteley, N., (1994). “Responsible Design and Ethical Consuming”, Design for Society, s.94-133.
Wolbers, M. F. (2009).Uncovering Fashion: Fashion Communications Across the Media. New York: Fairchild Books.
Zimmer, M.R., Stafford, T.F. and Stafford, M.R., (1994). “Green issues: Dimensions of Environmental Concern”. Journal of Business Research (30): 63–74. İnternet Kaynakları
Chua, J. M. (2011).Chicago Exhibit: Zero Waste: Fashion Re- Patterend[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.ecouterre. com/chicago-exhibit-zer%C3%98-waste-fashion-re- patterned/[Erişim tarihi: 15 Mart 2012].
Grandpierre, Karine. (2013). How ELLE magazine conquered the world[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri: http://www.inaglobal.fr/en/ press/article/how-elle-magazine-conquered-world.[Erişim tarihi: 20 Temmuz 2013].
Holt, E. (2011).Organic by John Patrick /Fall 2011 Review [çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/fashion- week/fall-2011/organic-by-john-patrick/review/.[Erişim tarihi: 20 Temmuz 2013].
Holgate, M. (2013).Maison Martin Margiela /Spring 2013 Couture[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/ fashion-week/spring-2013-couture/maison-martin- margiela/review/.[Erişim tarihi: 10 Temmuz 2013].
Mower, S. (2010).Couture 2010: Martin Margiela’s Artisanal Line[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/vogue- daily/article/vd-couture-2010-martin-margielas-artisanal- line/#1[Erişim tarihi: 17 Mart 2012].

Etik Modanın Temsiliyeti Bağlamında Vaatleri ve Çelişkileri: ‘Etik Moda’ Ne Kadar Etik Sunuluyor?

Yıl 2015, Sayı: 14, 101 - 115, 24.06.2015

Şölen Kipöz , Duygu Atalay

https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.98156

Cited By: 6

Öz

Hızlı modanın üretim ve tüketim stratejilerinin yarattığı yıkıcı etkilerin görünür hale gelmesi, modanın yeniden tanımlanmasını
sağlayan etik ve ekolojik bir tasarım anlayışının benimsenmesine yol açmıştır. Böylece etik moda ‘Yavaş Moda
Akımı’ gibi yaratıcı söylemler geliştirmiş ve yerel zanaatları, adil ticareti, çok işlevli tasarım ürünlerini, katılımcı tasarımı,
çevre dostu malzemelerin kullanımını ve geri dönüşümle değer kazandırılan tasarımları yücelten bir yapıya kavuşmuştur.
Ancak küresel moda ekonomisi tarafından ticarileştirilerek asimile de olmuştur. Etik moda, başat sistem içerisinde
tüketilebilen bir trende dönüştürülürken, sanal ortamda varlık gösteren niş bir medya ile beslenen alternatif bir tasarım
hareketi olarak sınırlı kalmıştır. Bu makalede, etik modanın tasarım ve üretim stratejileri bağlamında söylemsel ve ticari
temsiliyeti ele alınarak ana akım ve alternatif medyada yer alan haberlerin geriye dönük okuması yapılmıştır. Böylece etik
modanın vaat ettiği ‘etik olma’ sözü, medya analizi üzerinden deşifre edilmiştir.
Anahtar Sözcükler: Etik Moda, Etik Moda Söylemi, Modanın Temsiliyeti, Moda Basını, İnternet Dergiciliği.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Kaynakça

Arnold, R. (2009). ‘Ethics’ in Fashion: A very Short Introduction. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Baudrillard, J. (1972). “Requiem for the Media”, The New Media Reader, s.277-288.
Baudrillard, J. (1981). For a Critique of the Political Economy of the Sign Paperback, Telos Press Publishing.
Black, S. (2008). Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing.
Braungart, M. and McDonough, W. (2009).Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things,. London: Vintage.
Breward, C. (1995).The Culture of Fashion Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Brown. S. (2010). Ecofashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
Chapman, J. and Gant, N. (2007).Designers, Visionaries and Other Stories: A Collection of Sustainable Design Essays. Sterling: Earthscan.
Clark, Hazel. (2008). “Slow+Fashion- an Oxymoron- or a Promise for the Future...?”,Fashion Theory, cilt. 12, sayı.4, s. 427–446.
Craik, J. (1993).The Face of Fashion.London; New York: Routledge.
Craik, J. (2009). Fashion: The Key Concepts. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Currie, D.H. (1994). “Going Green” Mythologies of Consumption in Adolescent Magazines,Youth Society. Erişim Yeri: Sage database [Şubat 15, 2012]
Derycke, L. & Van de Veire, S. (1999).Belgian Fashion Design, Ludion, Antwerp, p. 292, P Mears, ‘Fraying the Edges: Fashion and Deconstruction’içinde , Mears, P. & Sidlauskas S. (ed), (2006), Skin+Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture içinde, Thames and Hudson Pub., London, s. 35.
Dilnot, C., (2009). “Ethics in Design: 10 Questions”, Design Studies: A Reader, ed. Clark, H., Brody, s. 180-190.
Erlhoff, M. and Marshall, T. (ed) (2008).Design Dictionary: Perspectives on Design Terminology. Basel: Birkhäuser Verlag
Evans, C.,(1998). The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela: Exhibition,Fashion Theory, vol. 2 Issue 1: 83, Berg publishers.
Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Malta: Earthscan.
Healy, R. (2007). The Parody of Motley Cadaver: Displaying the Funeral of Fashion’ in EAD 07 Conference Proceedings: Dancing with Disorder. Design Discourse Disaster.Balcıoğlu T., Tombuş Ö.Ç., Irkdaş, D(Ed)s.660-667.Izmir University of Economics
Herman, A. and Swiss, T. eds. (2000).The World Wide Web and Contemporary Cultural Theory. Newyork: Routledge.
Kawamura, Y. (2005). Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Kipöz, Ş (2013) ‘Slow Fashion Ethics: Reproduction of Memory through Deconstruction’, EAD 2013 Conference Proceedings: Crafting the Future, Erişim Yeri: http://www.trippus.se/web/ presentation/web.aspx?evid=qTCRaT4TJ70WGtClyjpKRA== &ecid=vajn7H5hFUL31Hr+Q9enuw==&ln=eng&emid=3JGso ZYZLLIcleu9tHBhtg==&view=infopage&template=desktop
Kipöz, Ş., Güner, D. (2011). Conceptual Resistance of Hussein Chalayan within the Ephemeral World of Fashion in Fashions: Exploring Fashion through Culture, Foltyn, J. L. (Editor).Oxford: The Inter-Disciplinary Press.
Loschek, I. (2009).When Clothes become Fashion: Design and Innovation Systems. London: Berg Publishers.
Manzini, E. (1995). Prometheus of the Everyday in Discovering Design: Explorations in Design studies. Margolin, V., Buchanan, R. (eds) s.219-243. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Margolin, V. (2002). “Design for a Sustainable World”, Politics of the Artificial, s.92-105. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Mears, P. and Sidlauskas, S., (ed). (2006). ‘Fraying the Edges: Fashion and Deconstruction’, in Skin+Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture, London: Thames and Hudson Pub.
O’shaughnessy, M. and Stadler, J. (2008).Media and Society. Sydney: Oxford University Press.
Rocamora, A. (2009).Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media. London& New York: I.B.Tauris & Co Ltd.
Sanders, A. And Seager, K. (2009).Junky Styling Wardrobe Surgery. London: A&C Publishers.
Scaturro, S. (2008). Eco-tech Fashion: Rationalizing Technology in Sustainable Fashion. Fashion Theory, vol. 12, issue.4, s. 469– 489
Shinkle, E., ed. (2008).Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion.London: I.B. Tauris & Co Ltd.
Thomas, S. (2008). From Green Blur to Ecofashion: Fashioning an Eco-lexicon,Fashion Theory, vol. 12, issue.4, s. 525–540.
Thorpe, A. (2010). Design’s Role in Sustainable Consumption, Design Issues, vol.26.no.2, Chicago: Mit Press.
Welters, L. and Lillethun, A., eds. (2007). The Fashion Reader. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Winge, Theresa M. (2008). “Green is the New Black: Celebrity Chic and the “Green” Commodity Fetish”, Fashion Theory (12/4): 511–524.
Whiteley, N., (1994). “Responsible Design and Ethical Consuming”, Design for Society, s.94-133.
Wolbers, M. F. (2009).Uncovering Fashion: Fashion Communications Across the Media. New York: Fairchild Books.
Zimmer, M.R., Stafford, T.F. and Stafford, M.R., (1994). “Green issues: Dimensions of Environmental Concern”. Journal of Business Research (30): 63–74. İnternet Kaynakları
Chua, J. M. (2011).Chicago Exhibit: Zero Waste: Fashion Re- Patterend[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.ecouterre. com/chicago-exhibit-zer%C3%98-waste-fashion-re- patterned/[Erişim tarihi: 15 Mart 2012].
Grandpierre, Karine. (2013). How ELLE magazine conquered the world[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri: http://www.inaglobal.fr/en/ press/article/how-elle-magazine-conquered-world.[Erişim tarihi: 20 Temmuz 2013].
Holt, E. (2011).Organic by John Patrick /Fall 2011 Review [çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/fashion- week/fall-2011/organic-by-john-patrick/review/.[Erişim tarihi: 20 Temmuz 2013].
Holgate, M. (2013).Maison Martin Margiela /Spring 2013 Couture[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/ fashion-week/spring-2013-couture/maison-martin- margiela/review/.[Erişim tarihi: 10 Temmuz 2013].
Mower, S. (2010).Couture 2010: Martin Margiela’s Artisanal Line[çevrimiçi].Erişim yeri:http://www.vogue.com/vogue- daily/article/vd-couture-2010-martin-margielas-artisanal- line/#1[Erişim tarihi: 17 Mart 2012].

Toplam 43 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil	Türkçe
Bölüm	Araştırma Makaleler
Yazarlar	Şölen Kipöz Duygu Atalay
Yayımlanma Tarihi	24 Haziran 2015
Gönderilme Tarihi	7 Ağustos 2015
Yayımlandığı Sayı	Yıl 2015 Sayı: 14

Kaynak Göster

APA	Kipöz, Ş., & Atalay, D. (2015). Etik Modanın Temsiliyeti Bağlamında Vaatleri ve Çelişkileri: ‘Etik Moda’ Ne Kadar Etik Sunuluyor?. Yedi(14), 101-115. https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.98156