On Weaving in Teos

Yıl 2025, Sayı: 51 , 89 - 111 , 01.12.2025

Dilşad Ayşe Kolenoğlu

https://doi.org/10.36891/anatolia.1581882

https://izlik.org/JA46EZ45MD

Öz

In this article, weaving associated finds from the ancient city of Teos are analyzed in terms of form, weight, material and density. After a brief touch on ancient weaving techniques, Production methods, tools and raw materials are examined from broad scope of Ionian region to Teos. In addition to finds directly relating to weaving, such as loom weights, epigraphic data (inscriptions) and weaving relevant archaeological descriptions found in the city were utilized. These data points to various uses of textiles in rituals as offerings or in the daily lives of the inhabitants of the city. Loom weights constitute the majority of the archaeological finds from the city. This provides information about the type of weaving, the yarn used and the loom. Weaving aids such as spindle whorls and needles were found in very small quantities. The scarcity of finds makes it difficult to obtain information about the methods used in spinning the yarn and the various stages such as sewing and decoration after the fabric is produced. Loom weights are very various and rich in terms of gram and form. The form and characteristics of the weights suggest the wide usage of warp-weighted looms in the city.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Teos , Weaving , Weaving Loom , Loom Weight , Spindle Whorl

TEOS’TA DOKUMACILIK ÜZERİNE

https://izlik.org/JA46EZ45MD

Öz

Bu makalede Teos antik kentinde dokumacılığa ilişkin buluntular, biçim, ağırlık, malzeme ve yoğunluk açısından ele alınmıştır. Antik dönem dokumacılık endüstrisine ana hatlarıyla değinildikten sonra İonia Bölgesi dokumacılığı genelinden Teos özeline üretim teknikleri, kullanılan araçlar ve tercih edilen hammaddeler incelenmiştir. Dokuma tezgâh ağırlıkları gibi dokumayla direk ilişkili buluntuların yanı sıra kentte ele geçen epigrafik veriler (yazıtlar) ile dokumaya ilişkin arkeolojik tasvirlerden yararlanılmıştır. Bu veriler adak olarak ritüellerde ya da kent sakinlerinin gündelik hayatlarında dokumaya dair çeşitli kullanımlara işaret etmektedir. Kentte ele geçen arkeolojik buluntuların çoğunluğunu tezgâh ağırlıkları oluşturmaktadır. Bu durum dokuma türü, kullanılan iplik ve tezgâh hakkında bilgi edinilmesine olanak sağlamaktadır. Ağırşak, iğne gibi dokumaya yardımcı elemanlar oldukça az sayıda ele geçmiştir. Buluntuların azlığı ipliği eğirmede kullanılan yöntemler ve kumaş üretildikten sonraki dikme, bezeme gibi çeşitli aşamalar hakkında bilgi edinmemizi zorlaştırmaktadır. Tezgâh ağırlıkları gram ve biçim bakımından çok çeşitli ve oldukça zengindir. Ağırlıkların form ve özellikleri dokuma tezgâhı türlerinden biri olan çözgü ağırlıklı tezgâhların kentte yaygın olarak kullanıldığını düşündürmektedir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Teos , Dokuma , Dokuma Tezgâhı , Tezgâh Ağırlığı , Ağırşak

Kaynakça

• Antik Kaynaklar
• Hdt. Herodotos Tarihi (Çev: M. Ökmen). İstanbul: Can Yayınları 2006.
• Hom. Il. Homeros, İlyada (Çev. A. Erhat – A. Kadir). İstanbul: Can Yayınları 2008.
• Hom. Od. Homeros, Odysseia (Çev. A. Erhat – A. Kadir). İstanbul: Can Yayınları 1994.
• Paus. Pausanias, Description of Greece VII, 3.3 (Çev: W.H.S. Jones). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press 1933.
• Plin. nat. Plinius, Natural History III-VII (Çev. H. Rackham). Cambridge: Harvard University Press 1961.
• Plut. Plutark, Theseus ve Romulus (Çev: M. Mete). İstanbul: İdea Yayınevi 2005.
• Strabon, Geographika, Antik Anadolu Coğrafyası Kitap: XV-XVI-XIV. (Çev. A. Pekman) İstanbul: Arkeoloji ve Sanat Yayınları, 2005.
• Modern Kaynaklar Abrahams, E. B. 1908. Greek Dress: A study of the costumes worn in Ancient Greece, From Prehellenic Times to the Hellenistic Age. London: J. Murray.
• Adak, M. 2021a. “Dionysos, Demeter ve Leukothea Kültleri.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 116-134.
• Adak, M. 2021b. “Kentin İdari Yapısı.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 264-272.
• Adak, M. 2021c. “Teos und die hellenistischen Könige von Alexander bis Antiochos III.” P. Brun – L. Capdetrey – P. Frohlich (eds.), L’Asie Mineure au IIIe siècle a.C. Mémoires 60. Bordeaux: Ausonius, 231-257.
• Alberti, M. E. 2017. “Washing and Dyeing Installations of the Ancient Mediterranean: towards a Definition from Roman Times back to Minoan Crete.” C. Gillis – B. Nosh (eds.), Ancient Textiles Production, Craft and Society. Oxford - Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 59-64.
• Aldrete, G. D. 2004. Daily Life in the Roman City Rome Pompeii and Ostia. London: Greenwood Press.
• Andersson-Strand, E. 2010. “The Basics of Textile Tools and Textile Technology: From fibre to fabric.” C. Michel – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Textile terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the third to the first Millennia BC. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 10-22.
• Andersson-Strand, E. 2015. “The Basics of Textile Tools and Textile Technology; from Fibre to Fabric.” E. Andersson-Strand – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 39-61.
• Andersson-Strand, E. – Nosch, M.-L. 2015. “Introduction to the CTR database.” E. Andersson-Strand – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 145-153. Andreades, A. 1965. Geschichte der Griechische Saatswirtschaft von der Heroenzeit bis zur Schlacht. Hildesheim: Olms, 166-169.
• Aytaç, Ç. 1982. El Dokumacılığı. İstanbul: Milli Eğitim Bakanlığı.
• Barber, E. J. W. 1991. Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Browse Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean. New Jersey: Princeton University Press. Barber, E. J. W. 1998. “Bronze Age Cloth and Clothing of the Tarim Basin: The Kroran (Loulan) and Qumul (Hami) Evidence.” V. H. Mair (ed.), The Bronze Age and Early Iron Age Peoples of Eastern Central Asia. Washington: The Institute for the Study of Man, 647-656.
• Barber, E. J. W. 2007. “Weaving the Social Fabric.” C. Gillis – B. Nosh (eds.), Ancient Textiles Production, Craft and Society. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 173-178.
• Benda-Weber, I. 2013. “Textile Production Centres, Products and Merchants in the Roman Province of Asia.” M. Gleba – J. Pásztókai-Szeőke (eds.), Making Textiles in pre-Roman and Roman Times: People, Places, Identities. Oxford - Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 171-192.
• Bernhard M.-L. – W. A. Daszewski 1986. “Ariadne.” LIMC III.1, 1050.
• Bîrzescu, I. 2012. Die archaischen und frühklassischen Transportamphoren. Histria XV. Bucarest: Editura Enciclopedică.
• Bîrzescu, I. 2013. “Transport Amphoras of the Second Half of the 7th – Beginning of the 6th Cent. BC in Histria.” L. Buzoianu – P. Dupont – V. Lungu (eds.), PATABS III. Production and trade of amphorae in the Black Sea = Production et commerce amphoriques en Mer Noire. Actes de la Table Ronde internationale de Constanţa, 6-10 octobre 2009. Constanţa: Natural History and Archaeology Museum, 201-212.
• Brons, C. 2017. Gods and Garments Textiles in Greek Sanctuaries in the 7th to the 1st Centuries BC. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
• Broughton, T. R. S. 1938. “An Economic Survey of Ancient Rome.” T. Frank (ed.), An Economic Survey of Ancient Rome Africa, Syria, Greece, Asia Minor Vol. IV. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins Press, 499-919.
• Burke, B. 2010. From Minos to Midas Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in Anatolia. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
• Burnham, H. B. 1965 “Çatal Höyük-The Textiles and Twined Fabrics”, AnatSt XV:169-174. DOI: 10.2307/3642509
• Cahill, N. 2002. Household and City Organization at Olynthus. London: Yale University Press.
• Cook, J. M. 1962. The Greeks in Ionia and the East. London: Thames and Hudson.
• Daux, G. 1973. “Un passage du decret de Teos pour Antiochos III.” ZPE 12:235-236.
• Davidson, G. 1952. The Minor Objects. Corinth XII. New Jersey: The American School of Classical Studies at Athens. DOI: 10.2307/4390685
• Deighton, H.J. 2000. Eski Atina Yaşantısında Bir Gün. İstanbul: Homer Kitabevi.
• Demangel, R. – Laumonier, A. 1922. “Inscriptions d'lonie.” BCH 46:307-355.
• DeVries, K. 1980. ‘‘Greeks and Phrygians in the Early Iron Age,’’ K. DeVries, (ed.), From Athens to Gordion: The Papers of a Memorial Symposium for Rodney S. Young. University Museum Papers 1. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 33-49.
• Drexhage, H. J. 2007. “Wirtschaftspolitik und Wirtschaft in der Römischen Provinz Asia in der Zeit von Augustus bis zum Regierungsantritt Diokletians.” AMS 59:140-180.
• Dunst, G. 1964. “Zu dem neuen Epigraphischen Dokument aus Teos.” ZPE 3:170-174. Erhat, A. 2011. Mitoloji Sözlüğü. İstanbul: Remzi Kitabevi.
• Franken N. – Wrede H. 2018. “Androklos und die Ephesier opfern der Artemis von Ephesos. Zu den Basisreliefs ihrer Statuetten und des Kultbildes im Artemision.” K. Müller – B. Schiller (eds.), Von Kreta nach Kuba. Gedenkschrift zu Ehren des Berliner Archäologen Veit Stürmer. Berlin: Logos, 499-519.
• Fuchs, M. 2018. “The Frieze of the Temple of Dionysos at Teos.” M. Aurenhammer (ed.), Sculpture in Roman Asia Minor. Wien: Holzhausen, 147-160.
• Fuchs, M. 2021. Der Fries des Dionysos-Tempels in Teos. Wien: Phoibos Verlag.
• Giovannini, A.1983. “Téos, Antiochos III et Attaleler.” Museum Helveticum 40.3:178-184.
• Gleba, M. 2008. Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy. Ancient Textile Series 4. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
• Gleba M. – Cutler, J. 2012. “Textile production in Bronze Age Miletos: first Observations.” M. L. Nosch – R. Laffineur (eds.), KOSMOS Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age. Aegaeum 33. Leuven – Liege: Peeters, 113-120.
• Greco, G. 1997. “Des étoffes pour Héra. In Héra: Images, es-paces, cultes.” J. de La Genière (ed.), Collection du Centre Jean Bérard 15. Naples: Centre Jean Bérard, 185-99.
• Guzowska, M. – R. Becks – E. Andersson-Strand – J. Cutler – M.-L. Nosch, 2015. “Textile tools from Troia, western Anatolia.” E. Andersson-Strand - M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 309-328.
• Harich-Schwarzbauer H. 2016. Weben und Gewebe in der Antike. Oxford: Oxbow Books. Herrmann, P. 1965. “Antiochos der Große und Teos.” Anatolu/Anatolia 9:29-159.
• Hoffmann, M. 1964. The Warp-Weighted Loom; Studies in the History and Technology of an Ancient Implement. Studia Norvegica 14. Oslo: Universitetsforlaget.
• Jorgensen, L. B. 2007. “The World According to Textiles.” C. Gillis – B. Nosh (eds.), Ancient Textiles Production, Craft and Society. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 7-13.
• Judeich, W. 1891. “Inschriften aus lonien.” AM 1891:291-295.
• Kadıoğlu, M. 2018. Teos Rehber Kitap II / Teos Guide Book II. İzmir.
• Kadıoğlu, M.2021a. “Konum.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 20-25.
• Kadıoğlu, M. 2021b. “Teoslu Ünlüler.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 44-53.
• Kadıoğlu, M. 2021c. “Kentin Nüfusu.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 54-60.
• Kadıoğlu, M. 2021d. “Dionysos Kutsal Alanı.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 188-242.
• Kadıoğlu, M. 2021e. “Sıcak Su Kaynakları ve Su Yapıları.” Kadıoğlu 2021, Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. Ankara: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 306-310.
• Kadıoğlu, M – M. Adak 2021. “Kereste, Dokuma ve Tarımsal Ürünler.” M. Kadıoğlu (ed.), Teos Yazıtlar, Kültler ve Kentsel Doku. İstanbul: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 330-334.
• Kolenoğlu, D.A. 2019. Greek ve Roma Dönemi İonia Bölgesi Dokumacılık ve Dokuma Teknolojileri. Yayımlanmamış Yüksek Lisans Tezi. Ankara Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü: Ankara.
• Larson, J. 2007. Ancient Greek Cults: a Guide. New York: Routledge.
• Lawall, M. L. 2000. “Graffiti, Wine Selling, and the Reuse of Amphoras in the Athenian Agora, ca. 430 to 400 B.C.” Hesperia 69:3-90. DOI: 10.2307/148365
• Lawall, M. L. 2014. “Transport Amphoras and Loomweights: entegrating elements of Ancıent Greek economies?” M. Harlow – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 150-189. DOI: 10.2307/j.ctvh1dh8b.12
• Levy, J. – I. Gilead 2013. “The Emergence of the Ghassulian Textile Industry in the Southern Levant Chalcolithic Period (c. 4500-3900 BCE).” M.-L. Nosch – H. Koefoed – E. Andersson-Strand (eds.), Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 26-44. DOI: 10.2307/j.ctvh1dvx0.5
• Lovén, L.L. 2007. “Wool Work as a Gender Symbol in Ancient Rome. Roman Textiles and Ancient Sources.” C. Gillis – B. Nosh (eds.), Ancient Textiles Production, Craft and Society. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 230-236.
• Mansfield, J. M. 1985. The Robe of Athena and the Panathenaic Peplos. Unpublished PhD Thesis. University of California: Berkeley.
• Mårtensson, L. – M.-L. Nosch – E. Andersson-Strand 2009. “Shape Of Things: Understanding A Loom Weıght.” OJA 28.4:373-398.
• Martin, Ö. S. 2010. Mitolojik Tasvirlerde Tekstil ve Giyim Kuşam. Yayımlanmamış Yüksek Lisans Tezi. Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü: İzmir.
• Mazäre, P. 2014. “Investigating Neolithic and Copper Age Textile Production in Transylvania (Romania). Applied Methods and Results.” M. Harlow – C. Michel – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 1-42.
• Moeller, O. W. 1976. The Wool Trade of Ancient Pompeii. Leiden: Brill.
• Oliver, J. H. 1968. “Notes on the Inscriptions at Teos in honor of Antiochus III.” Greek, Roman and Byzantine Studies 9:321-322.
• Özgan, R. 2020. Hellenistik Devir Heykeltıraşlığı IV. Geç Hellenistik. Aydın.
• Pleket, H. W. 1964. Epigraphica I. Texts on the Economic History of the Greek World. Leiden: Brill.
• Pleket, H. W. 1983 “Frustula epigrafica Asiae Minoris.” EA 1:103-106.
• Rahmstorf, L. 2015. “An Introduction to the Investigation of Archaeological Textile Tools.” E. Andersson-Strand – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 1-25.
• Reinhold, M. 1970. History of Purple as a Status Symbol in Antiquity. Brussels: Latomus. Rigsby, K. 1996. “Craton’s Legacy.” EA 26:137-139.
• Robert, L. – Robert, J. 1976. “Une inscription grecque de Téos en Ionie.” JSav 3:153-235. Schieck, A. P. 2012. “A Late Roman Painting of an Egyptian Officer and The Layers of its Perception. On the Relation Between Images and Textile Finds.” M.-L. Nosch (ed.), Wearing the Cloak Dressing the Soldier in Roman Times. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 85-109.
• SEG 2. Supplementum Epigraphicum Graecum Vol. 2, J. J. E. Hondius (ed.), Leiden: A. W. Sijthoff. 1925.
• SEG 26. Supplementum Epigraphicum Graecum Vol. 26, H. W. Pleket – R. S. Stroud (eds.), Leiden: Brill. 1975-1977.
• Sezgin, Y. 2012. Arkaik Dönem İonia Üretimi Ticari Amphoralar. İstanbul: Ege Yayınları. Shams, G.P. 1987. Some Minor Textiles in Antiquity. Goteborg: Åström.
• Spantidaki, S. 2014. “Embellishment Techniques of Classical Greek Textiles.” M. Harlow – M.-L. Nosch (eds.), Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 33-45.
• Spantidaki, S. 2016. Textile Production in Classical Athens. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
• Strand, E. A – M.-L. Nosch 2015. “Introduction to the CTR database.” E. A. Strand – M.-L. Nosch (ed.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts. Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 191-335.
• Trinkl, E. 2007. “Artifacts Related to Preparation of Wool and Textile Processing Found Inside the Terrace Houses of Ephesus, Turkey.” C. Gillis – B. Nosh (eds.), Ancient Textiles Production, Craft and Society. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 81-86.
• Tsakirgis, B. 2016. “Whole Cloth: Exploring the Question of Self-Sufficiency through the Evidence for Textile Manufacture and Purchase in Greek Houses.” E. M. Harris – D. M. Lewis – M. Woolmer (eds.), The Ancient Greek Economy Markets, Households and City States. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. 166-187.
• Tütüncüler, Ö. 2005. MÖ 2. Bin Ege Bölgesi Dokuma Aletleri. Yayımlanmamış Doktora Tezi. Ankara Üniversitesi, Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü: Ankara.
• Tzochev, C. 2016. Amphora Stamps from Thasos. Athenian Agora 37. Princeton – New Jersey: The American School of Classical Studies at Athens.
• Voigtländer, W. 1982. “Funde aus der Insula westlich des Buleuterion in Milet.” IstMitt 32:30-173.
• Yalçın, G. – Karaoğlan, H. 2010. “M.Ö. II. Bin’de Anadolu’da Dokumacılık.” Ulusal Meslek Yüksekokulları Sempozyumu. Düzce, 1-12.
• Wild, J. P. 2003. “Industries of Early Historic Europe and the Mediterranean: The Romans in the West, 600 BC- 400 AD.” D. Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles I. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 77-93.
• Zimmer, G. 1982. Römische Berufsdarstellungen. AF 12. Berlin: Reichert.
• İnternet Kaynakları
• https://www.oxfordreference.com/display/10.1093/oi/authority.20110803100100140 (erişim tarihi: 07.08.2025)
• https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?assetId=1384824001&objectId=450925&partId= (erişim tarihi: 21.04.2024)