Yenilikçi Soya Lifi İçeren Mamul Denim ve Spor Giyim Kumaşların Yaşam Döngüsü Analizi (LCA)

Öz

Bu çalışmada yenilikçi doğal lif olan soya protein lifinin denim ve spor giyim ürün olarak üretilen mamul kumaşların yaşam döngü analizi (LCA) incelenmiştir. Çalışmada, denim ve spor giyim ürün grubundan seçilmiş dokuma kumaşlarda atkıda kullanılmak üzere, pamuk, soya lifi ve pamuk/soya karışım ipliklerinden oluşan 8 farklı harman kullanılmıştır. Soya lifi oranı, harmanda %10, %30 ve %50 şeklinde seçilmiş olup diğer karışım materyali pamuktur. Atkı iplikleri Ne10 ve Ne16 şeklinde iki farklı iplik numarasında üretilmiştir. Çözgü ipliği ise tüm kumaşlarda aynı olup, %100 pamuk materyalidir. Bu iplikler kullanılarak 4 adet denim ve 4 adet spor giyim olmak üzere toplam 8 adet kumaş dokunmuştur. Denim ve spor giyim üretim hattında, işletme koşullarında, mamul kumaşlar elde edilmiştir. Numune kumaşlara, seçilmiş mamul kumaş anti-bakteriyel aktivite, renk haslığı ve bazı kumaş performans testleri uygulanmıştır. Soya lifi içeriğinin dokuma kumaşların haslık ve performansını olumsuz etkilemediği görülmüştür. Çalışmadaki tüm kumaş numuneleri, denim ve spor giyim hattında ayrı ayrı olmak üzere, Yaşam Döngü Analizi (LCA) çalışması ile analiz edilmiştir. Soya lifinin yaşam döngü analizi çalışmasında en iyi sonuç; denim kumaş için atkıda %90 pamuk-%10 soya lifi ve spor giyim kumaş üretiminde %50 pamuk-%50 soya lifi ipliği kullanılmış kumaşlarda elde edilmiştir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Soya lifi
• Denim kumaş
• Spor giyim kumaş
• Yaşam döngüsü analizi (LCA)

Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) of Finished Denim and Sportswear Fabrics Containing Innovative Soy Fiber

Öz

In this study, the life cycle analysis (LCA) of finished fabrics produced as denim and sportswear products of soy protein fiber, an innovative natural fiber, was examined. In the study, 8 different blends consisting of cotton, soybean fiber and cotton/soybean blend yarns were used to be used in the weft of woven fabrics selected from the denim and sportswear product group. The ratio of soybean fiber is selected as 10%, 30% and 50% in the blend, and the other blending material is cotton. Weft yarns are produced in two different yarn counts, Ne10 and Ne16. The warp thread is the same in all fabrics and is 100% cotton material. Fabrics produced using these yarns; It is woven as 8 different fabrics, four of which are denim and four are sportswear. Finished fabrics were obtained in the denim and sportswear production line, under operating conditions. Anti-bacterial activity, color fastness and some fabric performance tests were applied to the sample fabrics. It has been observed that soy fiber content does not adversely affect the fastness and performance of woven fabrics. All fabric samples in the study were analyzed by Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) study, separately for denim and sportswear lines. The best result in the life cycle analysis study of soybean fiber; It was obtained in fabrics using 90% cotton-10% soy fiber in weft for denim fabric and 50% cotton-50% soy fiber yarn in sportswear fabric production.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Soy fiber
• Denim fabric
• Sportswear fabric
• Life cycle analysis (LCA)

Kaynakça

1. 1. Unal, B., 2012. The Prediction of Seam Strength of Denim Fabrics with Mathematical Equations. Journal of The Textile Institute, 103(7), 744-751.
2. 2. Zervent Ünal, B., Küçük, A.D., 2021. Ozonlama Proses Şartlarının Elastansız Denim Kumaşların Yumuşaklık/Sertli ve Mukavemet Özelliklerine Etkisinin İrdelenmesi. DEÜ FMD, 23(69), 745-754.
3. 3. Doba Kadem, F., Saraç, E.G., 2017. An Experimental Application on Denim Garment to Give Thermal Regulation Property. Journal of the Textile Institute, 108(3), 353-360.
4. 4. Sabır, E.C., Doba Kadem, F., 2016. The Comfort and Performance Properties of Raised and Laminated Denim Fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 24(5), 88-94.
5. 5. Tölek, S., Doba Kadem, F., 2016. An Investigation on Colour Analysis and Fastness Properties of the Denim Fabric Dyed with a Different Method. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 26(2), 198-204.
6. 6. Sabır, E.C., Dönmez, İ., 2018. Efficiency in Denim Finishing Mills-Reducing the Use of Coustics in Mercerization. ISAS 2018-Winter, 2nd International Symposium on Innovative Approaches in Scientific Studies, November 30 - December 2, 2018, Samsun, Turkey.
7. 7. Gülşen Bakıcı, G., Doba Kadem, F., 2018. An Experimental Study on Sewability Properties of 100% Cotton Denim Fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 28(2), 170-176.
8. 8. Dönmez, İ., Sabır, E.C., 2019. Denim Terbiye İşletmelerinde Verimlilik ve Yaşam Döngüsü Değerlendirmesi Üzerine Deneysel Çalışma, UÇTEK2019-Ulusal Çukurova Tekstil Kongresi, 26-27 Eylül 2019, Adana.

9. 9. Guinee, J.B., 2002. Handbook on Life Cycle Assessment Operational Guide to The ISO Standards. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 7(5), 311-313.
10. 10. La Rosa, A.D., Grammatikos, S.A., 2019. Comparative Life Cycle Assessment of Cotton and Other Natural Fibers for Textile Applications. Fibers, 7, 101. www.mdpi.com/ journal/fibers.
11. 11. Bevilacqua, M., Ciarapica, F.E., Mazzuto, G., Paciarotti, C., 2014. Environmental Analysis of a Cotton Yarn Supply Chain. Journal of Cleaner Production, 82, 154-165.
12. 12. Peters, G., Svanström, M., Roos, S., Sandin, G., Zamani B., 2015. Carbon Footprints in the Textile Industry. Book Chapter, 3-30. (Editor: Muthu, S.S.), Handbook of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Textiles and Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles; 172, Elsevier: Amsterdam, Netherlands,
13. 13. Roos, S., Posner, S., Jonsson, C., Peters, G.M., 2015. Is Unbleached Cotton Better Than Bleached? Exploring The Limits of Life-Cycle Assessment in the Textile Sector. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 33(4), 250-261.
14. 14. Roos, S., Peters, G.M., 2015. Three Methods for Strategic Product Toxicity Assessment-The Case of the Cotton T-Shirt. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 20(7), 903-912.
15. 15. Qian, J.H., Li, Y., Wang, L.L., 2018. Calculation and Assessment of Chemical Footprint of Denim Fabric. Dyeing & Finishing, 44(13), 52-55.
16. 16. Li, Y., Luo, Y., He, Q., 2020. Chemical Footprint of Textile and Apparel Products: An Assessment of Human and Ecological Toxicities Based on Usetox Model. Journal of The Textile Institute, 111(7), 960-971.
17. 17. Van der Velden, N.M., Patel, M.K., Vogtländer, J.G., 2014. LCA Benchmarking Study on Textiles Made of Cotton, Polyester, Nylon, Acryl, or Elastane. Int. J. Life Cycle Assess., 19, 331-356.
18. 18. Wang, L.L., Ding, X.M., Wu, X.Y., 2013. Research Progress of Textile Carbon Footprint. Textile Research Journal, 34(6), 113-119.
19. 19. Dönmez Uzun, İ., Sabır, E.C., Sırlıbaş, S., Yeşiltaş, E., 2021. Performance and Life Cycle Analysis of Denim Fabrics Produced Using Soybean Protein Fiber and Cotton Fiber, 5th Icnf2021-Materials of the Future (5th International Conference on Natural Fibers), 17-19th May 2021, Madeira Island/Portugal.