LÜKS MODA MARKALARININ SANATLA KONUMLANDIRMA STRATEJİSİ VE LOUIS VUITTON ANALİZİ

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 37 Sayı: 3, 1039 - 1061, 30.09.2023

Ayşe Nil Kireçci

https://doi.org/10.48070/erciyesakademi.1341978

Öz

Geleneksel lüks moda markaları, az sayıda olan, yüksek fiyatlı, zor ulaşılan, yüksek kaliteli hammaddelerin kullanıldığı iyi bir zanaatkârlık örneği teşkil eden, ürünle birlikte markanın geleneğini taşıyan ve kullanıcısına saygınlık kazandıran markalar olarak kabul edilmektedir. Günümüzde giderek hızlanan moda döngüsüne uyum sağlamaya çalışan lüks moda markaları, geleneksel lüksün temel niteliklerini taşımaktan uzaklaşmaktadır. Bu markalar, pazardaki eşsiz konumlarını korumak üzere, geleneksel lüks modanın sanatla olan bağından yararlanmakta ve sanatla konumlandırma stratejileri benimsemektedir. Bu çalışma, sanatla konumlandırma stratejisini ve lüks moda markalarının bu doğrultuda hayata geçirdiği pratikleri keşifsel vaka analizi yöntemiyle değerlendirmeyi amaçlamaktadır. Araştırma amacı doğrultusunda, lüks moda endüstrisinin lideri konumundaki Louis Vuitton’un sanat pratikleri analiz edilmiştir. Markanın sanatla ilgili seçili faaliyetlerini konu alan önceki çalışmalardan farklı olarak, bu çalışmada sanat, markanın konumlandırıldığı temel değer olarak ele alınmış ve sanatla ilişkili pratiklerin yanı sıra markanın temel bileşenlerinin de dâhil olduğu kapsamlı bir analiz gerçekleştirilmiştir. Analizde, Louis Vuitton’un geleneksel lüks moda ve sanatın birlikte anıldığı kuruluş döneminde sahip olduğu değerlerini koruduğu ve bunları markanın hikâyesi aracılığıyla ilettiği görülmüştür. Sanat vakfı ve yürütmekte olduğu sanat hayırseverliği faaliyetleri, markanın, uluslararası sanat ve kültür topluluğunun önde gelen bir üyesi olmasını sağlamıştır. Louis Vuitton’un analizde sunulan ve sanatla konumlandırma konusunda çağdaşlarına ilham veren diğer öncü sanat pratiklerini hedef kitlesiyle iletişim kurmak üzere kullanmayı alışkanlık haline getiren bir marka olduğu görülmüştür.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Lüks moda, Marka konumlandırma, Sanatlaştırma

ART POSITIONING STRATEGY OF LUXURY FASHION BRANDS AND LOUIS VUITTON ANALYSIS

Öz

Traditional luxury fashion brands are considered as brands that serves goods which are few in number, with high prices, hard to reach, present an example of craftsmanship using high quality raw materials and carry the tradition of the brand along with the product and bring prestige to its users. Today, luxury fashion brands trying to adapt to the increasingly accelerating fashion cycle are moving away from carrying the basic characteristics of traditional luxury. In order to maintain their unique positions in the market, these brands take advantage of traditional luxury fashion's connection with art and adopt art positioning strategies. This study aims to evaluate the art positioning strategy and the practices implemented by luxury fashion brands through an exploratory case analysis method. For the purpose of the research, the art practices of Louis Vuitton, the leader of the luxury fashion industry, were analyzed. Unlike previous studies that focused on selected art related activities of the brand, in this study, art was considered as the core value on which the brand was positioned and a comprehensive analysis was carried out, including the basic components of the brand as well as art-related practices. In the analysis, it was seen that Louis Vuitton preserved the values it had during its founding period, when traditional luxury fashion and art were associated together, and conveyed them through the brand's story. The art foundation and philanthropic activities have enabled the brand to become a leading member of the international arts and cultural community. It has been seen through the analyses that Louis Vuitton is a brand that has made a habit of using the pioneering art practices which inspire its contemporaries in positioning with art, to communicate with its target audience.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Luxury fashion, Brand positioning, Artification

Kaynakça

• Ashlee, P. (2021). Think like Bernard Arnault. Pasols Ashlee.
• Balıkçıoğlu, B., & Karacaoğlu, K. (2007). Sosyal bir ürün olarak topluma pazarlanan hayırseverlik: Stratejik hayırseverlik. Gazi Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Fakültesi Dergisi, 9(2), 121-141.
• Batat, W. (2023). The pursuit of luxury or luxuries? A framework of the past, present, and future of luxury research. Consumption Markets & Culture, 26(2), 103-116. https://doi.org/10.1080/10253866.2023.2185233
• Bongrand, C. (2021). Louis Vuitton. Gallimard.
• Crane, D. (2003). Moda ve gündemleri: Giyimde sınıf, cinsiyet ve kimlik (Çev. Ö. Çelik). Ayrıntı Yayınları.
• Davis, M. E. (2008). Classic chic: Music, fashion and modernism. University of California Press.
• Deloitte. (2022). Global powers of luxury goods 2022. https://www.deloitte.com/global/en/Industries/consumer/analysis/gx-cb-global-powers-of-luxury- goods.html
• Dubois, B., Czellar, S., & Laurent, G. (2005). Consumer segments based on attitudes toward luxury: Empirical evidence from twenty countries. Marketing Letters, 16(2), 115-128. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11002-005-2172-0
• European Fashion Heritage Association. (2018, Nisan 18). Louis Vuitton: the Marc Jacobs’ years. https://fashionheritage.eu/louis-vuitton-the-marc-jacobs-years/
• Faerm, S. (2010). Fashion design course - Principles, practice and techniques: The ultimate guide for aspiring fashion designers. Thames & Hudson.
• Fondation Louis Vuitton. (2014, Ekim 17). Fondation Louis Vuitton press kit. https://r.lvmh- static.com/uploads/2015/01/oct-2014flv-press-kit.pdf
• Forbes. (t.y). Bernard Arnault & family. https://www.forbes.com/profile/bernard-arnault/?sh=260fba9866fa
• Ghosh, A., & Varshney, S. (2013).  Luxury goods consumption: A conceptual framework based on literature review. South Asian Journal of Management, 20(2), 146-159.
• Homer, K. (2021). Little book of Louis Vuitton: The story of the iconic fashion house. Welbeck.
• Husic, M., & Cicic, M. (2009). Luxury consumption factors. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 13(2), 231-245. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020910957734
• Jelinek, J. S. (2018). Art as a strategic branding tool for luxury fashion brands. Journal of Product and Brand Management, 27(3), 294-307. https://doi.org/10.1108/JPBM-01-2017-1408
• Joy, A., & Belk, R. W. (2020). Why luxury brands partner with artists. İçinde P. Y. Donze, V. Pouillard & J. Roberts (Eds.), The Oxford handbook of luxury business (ss. 309-327). Oxford University Press.
• Joy, A., Wang, J. J., Chan, T. S., Sherry, J. F., & Cui, G. (2014). M(A)rt worlds: Consumerperceptions of how luxury brand stores become art institutions. Journal of Retailing, 90(3), 347-364. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jretai.2014.01.002
• Kapferer, J. N., & Bastien, V. (2009). The luxury strategy: Break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands. Kogan Page Limited.
• Karra, N. (2021). Fashion entrepreneurship: The creation of the global fashion business. Routledge.
• Koda, H., & Bolton, A. (2008, Eylül). Paul Poiret (1879-1944), The Met. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/poir/hd_poir.htm
• Kovesi, C. (2015). What is luxury? The rebirth of a concept in the early modern world. History, Culture, Consumption, 2(1), 25-40. https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2015.11428563
• Luzzini, D., & Ronchi, S. (2010). Purchasing management in the luxury industry: Organization and practices. Operations Management Research, 3(1-2), 7-21. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12063-009-0024-4
• LVMH. (2023a). LVMH group presentation. https://www.lvmh.com/group/about-lvmh/mission-lvmh/
• LVMH. (2023b). Arts and culture. https://www.lvmh.com/group/lvmh-commitments/art-culture/
• LVMH. (2023c). Corporate philantropy. https://www.lvmh.com/group/lvmh-commitments/art-culture/lvmh- corporate-philanthropy/
• LVMH (t.y.). 2023, Ağustos 1). Milestones. https://www.lvmh.com/group/milestones-lvmh/1593-to-the-present/
• Masè, S., & Cedrola, E. (2017). Louis Vuitton’s art-based strategy to communicate exclusivity and prestige. İçinde B. Jin & E. Cedrola (Eds.), Fashion branding and communication (ss. 155-184). Palgrave Pivot.
• Müller, F. (2013) In the beginning. İçinde J. C. Kaufmann, I. Luna, F. Müller, M. Nishitani & C. Pringle (Eds.), Louis Vuitton city bags: A natural history (ss. 22-37). Rizzoli.
• Okonkwo, U. (2007). Luxury fashion branding: Strategy, tactics, techniques. Palgrave Macmillan.
• Palmitessa, M. (2012). The use of art for branding purposes - A study of Louis Vuitton’s art collaborations (Yayımlanmamış lisans tezi) Lund Üniversitesi.
• Parkins, I. (2012). Poire, Dior, Schiaparelli: Fashion, feminity and modernity. Bloomsbury Publishing PLC.
• Riot, E. (2017). The Louis Vuitton Foundation: The gift of a CSR leader and art lover to the world. İçinde G. Eweje & R. J. Bathurst (Eds.), CSR, sustainability, and leadership (ss. 237-272). Routledge.
• Riot, E., Chamaret, C., & Rigaud, E. (2013). Murakami on the bag: Louis Vuitton's decommoditization strategy. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 41(11-12), 919-939. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-01- 2013-0010
• Rowley, J. (2002). Using case studies in research. Management Research News, 25(1), 16-27. https://doi.org/10.1108/01409170210782990
• Soytürk, V. (2020, Kasım 2). Geleneksel Kore'den ilhamla modern bir bina: Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul, Arkitekt, https://www.gzt.com/arkitekt/geleneksel-koreden-ilhamla-modern-bir-bina-louis-vuitton-maison-seoul- 3562514
• Thomas, D. (2007). Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster. Penguin Books.
• Tuna, M. (2021, Ağustos 26). Paralel evrende doğum günü: Louis the game. Mercado. https://www.studiomercado.com/post/louis-the-game
• Wesley, C. (2023). Fashioning a fortune: The story of Bernard Arnault and LVMH. Charles Wesley.
• Yeoman, I., & McMahon-Beattie, U. (2011). The changing meaning of luxury. İçinde I. Yeoman & U. McMahon- Beattie (Eds.), Revenue management: A practical pricing perspective (ss. 72-85). Palgrave Macmillan.
• Yin, R. K. (1994). Case study research: Design and methods (2. Basım). Sage.