Sürdürülebilir moda için bütünleşik bir yaklaşım önerisi: İkinci el kıyafet alışverişinde etkili olan kriterlerin anlaşılması ve analizi

Yıl 2022, , 873 - 888, 28.02.2022

Saliha Karadayı-usta , Cigdem Kadaifci

https://doi.org/10.17341/gazimmfd.945327

Cited By: 2

Öz

Sürdürülebilir moda, tüketicinin gerçek ihtiyaçlarını sorguladığı, doğal içerikli kumaşların seçildiği, çalışanlarına etik çalışma koşulları sağlayan markaların tercih edildiği, edinilen kıyafetin uzun süre kullanıldığı, gerektiğinde tamir edildiği, ömrü bittiğinde geri dönüşüm yoluyla yeniden ipliğe çevrildiği veya işlevinin değiştirilmesiyle yeni bir ürüne dönüştürüldüğü, uzun vadede sayısız fayda sunan önemli bir akımdır. Bu kapsamda tüketicinin en etkin rol aldığı nokta, uzun yıllar dayanabilecek kaliteli ürünleri tercih etmek ve özellikle ikinci el kıyafet alım satımı yoluyla ürünlerin kullanımda kaldığı süreyi uzatmaktır. Mevcut çalışmalar kavramsal detayları verip, tüketici algısı ve tavrına dayanan yol haritaları çizerken, ikinci el alışveriş uygulamalarında kıyafet özelinde kapsamlı bir çalışmaya rastlanmamıştır. Dolayısıyla bu çalışmanın amacı sürdürülebilir modayı mümkün kılan bir araç olarak, ikinci el kıyafet alışveriş uygulamalarını seçerken tüketicinin hangi kriterlere dikkat ettiğini literatür taraması, bire bir görüşmeler ve metin madenciliği yoluyla anlayan, bu kriterleri Aşamalı Ağırlık Değerlendirme Oran Analizi (SWARA) yöntemi ile ağırlıklandıran ve öne çıkan uygulama alternatiflerini Ağırlıklı Birleştirilmiş Toplam-Çarpım Değerlendirmesi (WASPAS) yöntemi ile karşılaştıran bütünleşik bir yaklaşım önerisi sunmaktır. Çalışmanın bulguları, bilinçli tüketici ile farkındalığı bulunmayan tüketici özelinde farklılık göstermekte, farklı kuşakların farklı kriterlere önem verdiği görülmektedir. İlgili hizmet sağlayıcılar açısından dikkat edilmesi gereken unsurlar netleştirilmekte ve bu sayede sürdürülebilir modanın önünde engel teşkil edebilecek faktörler belirlenmekte, çözüme kavuşturulması gereken noktaların altı çizilmektedir. Kriter belirlemede metin madenciliğinin yeni bir yaklaşım olması ve gerçek kullanıcı görüşlerini yansıtması bakımından literatüre katkı sağlanmakta, bütünleşik bir yaklaşım önerisi ile adım adım izlenecek bir yol haritası sunulmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Sürdürülebilir moda, ikinci el kıyafet alışverişi, metin madenciliği, SWARA, WASPAS

Kaynakça

• [1] Brydges T., Closing the loop on take, make, waste: Investigating circular economy practices in the Swedish fashion industry, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 293, 2021.
• [2] United Nations - Sustainable Development, 2015. [Online]. Available: https://sdgs.un.org/goals. [Accessed: 19-Apr-2021].
• [3] Testa D.S., Bakhshian S., Eike R., Engaging consumers with sustainable fashion on Instagram, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 2021.
• [4] Grazzini L., Acuti D., Aiello G., Solving the puzzle of sustainable fashion consumption: The role of consumers’ implicit attitudes and perceived warmth, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 287, 2021.
• [5] de Haro C.V., Wang Y., FASHION 4.0: A Potential Solution to a More Sustainable Fashion Industry, in International Workshop of Advanced Manufacturing and Automation, 2020, pages 380–386.
• [6] Brandão A., da Costa A.G., Extending the theory of planned behaviour to understand the effects of barriers towards sustainable fashion consumption, European Business Review, 2021.
• [7] Puspita H., Chae H.J., An explorative study and comparison between companies’ and customers’ perspectives in the sustainable fashion industry, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 2021.
• [8] Orminski J., Tandoc Jr E.C., Detenber B.H., # sustainablefashion–A Conceptual Framework for Sustainable Fashion Discourse on Twitter, Environmental Communication, Volume 15, Number 1, 2021.
• [9] Zheng H., Chen L., Affecting Factors of Consumers’ Purchase Decision on Sustainable Fashion Clothing Products, in 2020 IEEE International Conference on Industrial Engineering and Engineering Management (IEEM), 2020, pages 873–877.
• [10] Heinze L., Fashion with heart: Sustainable fashion entrepreneurs, emotional labour and implications for a sustainable fashion system, Sustainable Development, Volume 28, Number 6, 2020.
• [11] Bandyopadhyay C., Ray S., Finding the Sweet Spot between Ethics and Aesthetics: A Social Entrepreneurial Perspective to Sustainable Fashion Brand (Juxta) Positioning, Journal of Global Marketing, Volume 33, Number 5, 2020.
• [12] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future, Session 2017.
• [13] Environmental Audit Committee, Fixing fashion: clothing consumption and sustainability: Sixteenth Report of Session 2017–19, London, Session 2019, HC 1952.
• [14] Niinimäki K., Peters G., Dahlbo H., Perry P., Rissanen T., Gwilt A., The environmental price of fast fashion, Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, Volume 1, Number 4, 2020.
• [15] Sajn N., Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know, Session 2019, PE 633.143.
• [16] What Is Sustainable and Ethical Fashion?, Sustainable Jungle, 2020. [Online]. Available: https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-living/ethical-sustainable-fashion/. [Accessed: 30-May-2021].
• [17] Resale Report, 2020. [Online]. Available: https://www.thredup.com/resale/. [Accessed: 17-Mar-2021].
• [18] Hürriyet Ekonomi, İflas eden perakendeci satıldı! Dev şirket 3 markayı 25,2 milyon sterline aldı, 2021.
• [19] NPR News, Forever 21 Filed For Bankruptcy But Will Live On With New Owners, NPR.org, 2020.
• [20] Bloomberg, H&M Retrenches With Plans to Shut 5% of Stores Next Year - Bloomberg, 2020. [Online]. Available: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-10-01/h-m-retrenches-with-plans-to-shut-5-of-stores-next-year. [Accessed: 19-Apr-2021].
• [21] Benson S., Lessons in Value, Sophie Benson, 2020.
• [22] Bayav P., Sürdürülebilir moda mümkün, 2021. [Online]. Available: https://jinhaagency.com/tr/ekoloji/content/view/5102. [Accessed: 17-Mar-2021].
• [23] Karadayi-Usta S., C2C E-Commerce Fuzzy Risk Analysis with Buyer Perspective, in International Conference on Intelligent and Fuzzy Systems, 2019, pages 435–442.
• [24] Li H., Ye Q., Law R., Wang Z., A purchasing-intention model in C2C e-commerce of China: The role of perceived risk, trust, perceived benefit and their antecedents, in Proceedings of the 12th international conference on electronic commerce: Roadmap for the future of electronic business, Hawaii, USA, 2010, pages 101–109.
• [25] Xinyan L., Jingjing W., Lu C., An Empirical Study on the Types of C2C Sellers’ Perceived Risk in the Entire Transaction Process, presented at the International Conference on E-Business and E-Government, Guangzhou, China, 2010, pages 2209–2212.
• [26] Chang Y., Luo J., The impact mechanism of consumer perceived risk on purchase intention under the C2C model, presented at the International Conference on Internet Technology and Applications, Wuhan, China, 2010, pages 1–4.
• [27] Kao A., Poteet S.R., Natural language processing and text mining. London, 2007.
• [28] Popescu A.-M., Etzioni O., Extracting product features and opinions from reviews, in Proceedings of Human Language Technology Conference and Conference on Empirical Methods in Natural Language Processing (HLT/EMNLP), Vancouver, 2007, pages 339–346.
• [29] Bunescu R.C., Mooney R.J., Extracting relations from text: From word sequences to dependency paths, in Natural language processing and text mining, London, 2007, pages 29–44.
• [30] Keršuliene V., Zavadskas E.K., Turskis Z., Selection of rational dispute resolution method by applying new step-wise weight assessment ratio analysis (SWARA), Journal of business economics and management, Volume 11, Number 2, 2010.
• [31] Keršulienė V., Turskis Z., Integrated fuzzy multiple criteria decision making model for architect selection, Technological and economic development of economy, Volume 17, Number 4, 2011.
• [32] Zolfani S.H., Yazdani M., Zavadskas E.K., An extended stepwise weight assessment ratio analysis (SWARA) method for improving criteria prioritization process, Soft Computing, Volume 22, Number 22, 2018.
• [33] Ghorshi Nezhad M.R., Zolfani S.H., Moztarzadeh F., Zavadskas E.K., Bahrami M., Planning the priority of high tech industries based on SWARA-WASPAS methodology: The case of the nanotechnology industry in Iran, Economic research-Ekonomska istraživanja, Volume 28, Number 1, 2015.
• [34] Zolfani S.H., Aghdaie M.H., Derakhti A., Zavadskas E.K., Varzandeh M.H.M., Decision making on business issues with foresight perspective; an application of new hybrid MCDM model in shopping mall locating, Expert systems with applications, Volume 40, Number 17, 2013.
• [35] Zolfani S.H., Saparauskas J., New application of SWARA method in prioritizing sustainability assessment indicators of energy system, Engineering Economics, Volume 24, Number 5, 2013.
• [36] Prajapati H., Kant R., Shankar R., Prioritizing the solutions of reverse logistics implementation to mitigate its barriers: A hybrid modified SWARA and WASPAS approach, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 240, 2019.
• [37] Kılıç Delice E., Can G.F., Kahya E., Improving the rapid office strain assessment method with an integrated multi-criteria decision making approach, Journal of the Faculty of Engineering and Architecture of Gazi University, Volume 35, Number 3, 2020.
• [38] Özbek A., Demirkol İ., Lojistik sektöründe faaliyet gösteren işletmelerin SWARA ve GİA yöntemleri ile analizi, Kırıkkale Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, Volume 8, Number 1, 2018.
• [39] Özbek A., Erol E., AHS ve SWARA Yöntemleri ile Yem Sektöründe İş Sağlığı ve Güvenliği Kriterlerinin Ağırlıklandırılması, Afyon Kocatepe Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Fakültesi Dergisi, Volume 20, Number 2, 2018.
• [40] Gök Kısa A.C., Ejder A., OECD ülkelerinin lojistik performanslarının SWARA tabanlı EDAS yöntemi ile değerlendirilmesi, Çankırı Karatekin Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Fakültesi Dergisi, Volume 9, Number 1, 2019.
• [41] Heidary Dahooie J., Beheshti Jazan Abadi E., Vanaki A.S., Firoozfar H.R., Competency‐based IT personnel selection using a hybrid SWARA and ARAS‐G methodology, Human Factors and Ergonomics in Manufacturing & Service Industries, Volume 28, Number 1, 2018.
• [42] Ulutaş A., SWARA VE MAIRCA YÖNTEMLERİ İLE CATERING FİRMASI SEÇİMİ, Business & Management Studies: An International Journal, Volume 7, Number 4, 2019.
• [43] Çakır E., Kentsel Dönüşüm Kapsamında Müteahhit Firmanın SWARA – Gri İlişkisel Analiz Yöntemiyle Seçilmesi, Uluslararası Bilimsel Araştırmalar Dergisi, Volume 2, Number 6, 2017.
• [44] Çakır E., Karabayık B.K., Bütünleşik SWARA-COPRAS yöntemi kullanarak bulut depolama hizmet sağlayıcılarının değerlendirilmesi, Bilişim Teknolojileri Dergisi, Volume 10, Number 4, 2017.
• [45] Yücenur G.N., Çaylak Ş., Gönül G., Postalcıoğlu M., An integrated solution with SWARA&COPRAS methods in renewable energy production: City selection for biogas facility, Renewable Energy, Volume 145, 2020.
• [46] Yarlıkaş S., Arslaner C., SWARA ve COPELAND Yöntemleri ile Global Tedarik Zinciri Yönetimini Etkileyen Faktörlerin Önem Düzeylerinin Değerlendirilmesi, Anadolu Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, Volume 19, Number 4, 2019.
• [47] Yurdoğlu H., Kundakçı N., SWARA ve WASPAS yöntemleri ile sunucu seçimi, Balıkesir Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi, Volume 20, Number 38, 2017.
• [48] Zavadskas E.K., Turskis Z., Antucheviciene J., Zakarevicius A., Optimization of weighted aggregated sum product assessment, Elektronika ir elektrotechnika, Volume 122, Number 6, 2012.
• [49] Šaparauskas J., Kazimieras Zavadskas E., Turskis Z., Selection of facade’s alternatives of commercial and public buildings based on multiple criteria, International Journal of Strategic Property Management, Volume 15, Number 2, 2011.
• [50] Chakraborty S., Zavadskas E.K., Applications of WASPAS method in manufacturing decision making, Informatica, Volume 25, Number 1, 2014.
• [51] Zavadskas E.K., Antucheviciene J., Saparauskas J., Turskis Z., MCDM methods WASPAS and MULTIMOORA: Verification of robustness of methods when assessing alternative solutions, Economic Computation and Economic Cybernetics Studies and Research, Volume 47, Number 2, 2013.
• [52] Tu J.-C., Hu C.-L., A study on the factors affecting consumers’ willingness to accept clothing rentals, Sustainability, Volume 10, Number 11, 2018.
• [53] Hur E., Rebirth fashion: Secondhand clothing consumption values and perceived risks, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 273, 2020.
• [54] Kılıç S., Pazarlama Karması Stratejileri (4P) Açısından İkinci El Giyim Ürünleri Satan Web Sitelerinin İçerik Analizi Yöntemiyle İncelenmesi, Elektronik Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, Volume 19, Number 74, 2020.
• [55] Kim N.L., Woo H., Ramkumar B., The role of product history in consumer response to online second-hand clothing retail service based on circular fashion, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Volume 60, 2021.
• [56] Blazquez M., Zhang T., Boardman R., Henninger C.E., Exploring the effects of social commerce on consumers’ browsing motivations and purchase intentions in the UK fashion industry, in Social Commerce, 2019, pages 99–115.
• [57] Munir S., Eco-fashion adoption in the UAE: understanding consumer barriers and motivational factors, Fashion Practice, Volume 12, Number 3, 2020.
• [58] Silva S.C., Santos A., Duarte P., Vlačić B., The role of social embarrassment, sustainability, familiarity and perception of hygiene in second-hand clothing purchase experience, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 2021.
• [59] Shrivastava A., Jain G., Kamble S.S., Belhadi A., Sustainability through online renting clothing: Circular fashion fueled by instagram micro-celebrities, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 278, 2021.
• [60] Soni M., Jain K., Kumar B., Factors affecting the adoption of fashion mobile shopping applications, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, Volume 10, Number 4, 2019.
• [61] Herjanto H., Hendriana H., The Effect of Acculturation Attitude on Second-hand Clothes Purchases, International Journal of Business & Society, Volume 21, Number 2, 2020.
• [62] Lang C., Zhang R., Second-hand clothing acquisition: The motivations and barriers to clothing swaps for Chinese consumers, Sustainable Production and Consumption, Volume 18, 2019.
• [63] Zoho Survey, Zoho, 2021. [Online]. Available: https://www.zoho.com/survey/index.html. [Accessed: 06-Apr-2021].
• [64] Bick R., Halsey E., Ekenga C.C., The global environmental injustice of fast fashion, Environmental Health, Volume 17, Number 1, 2018.
• [65] Dash P., Review on Import/Export and Recycling of Second Hand Clothes, International Journal of Psychosocial Rehabilitation, Volume 23, Number 6, 2019.
• [66] James A.S.J., Kent A., Clothing Sustainability and Upcycling in Ghana, Fashion Practice, Volume 11, Number 3, 2019.
• [67] Kapusy K., Lógó E., The Extended Shopping Experience of Used Clothes in Hungary, Periodica Polytechnica Social and Management Sciences, Volume 28, Number 2, 2020.
• [68] Mohammad J., Quoquab F., Sadom N.Z.M., Mindful consumption of second-hand clothing: the role of eWOM, attitude and consumer engagement, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 2020.
• [69] Peña-Vinces J., Solakis K., Guillen J., Environmental knowledge, the collaborative economy and responsible consumption in the context of second-hand perinatal and infant clothes in Spain, Resources, Conservation and Recycling, Volume 159, 2020.
• [70] Xu N., Ma L., Liu Q., Wang L., Deng Y., An improved text mining approach to extract safety risk factors from construction accident reports, Safety Science, Volume 138, 2021.
• [71] Shah A.M., Yan X., Tariq S., Ali M., What patients like or dislike in physicians: Analyzing drivers of patient satisfaction and dissatisfaction using a digital topic modeling approach, Information Processing & Management, Volume 58, Number 3, 2021.
• [72] Wang J., Zhao Z., Liu Y., Guo Y., Research on the Role of Influencing Factors on Hotel Customer Satisfaction Based on BP Neural Network and Text Mining, Information, Volume 12, Number 3, 2021.
• [73] Saputro B., Ma’mun S., Budi I., Santoso A.B., Putra P.K., Customer churn factors detection in Indonesian postpaid telecommunication services as a supporting medium for preventing waste of IT components, in IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 2021, Volume 700, Number 1, page 012015.