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TEKSTİL VE GİYSİ TASARIMINDA BİYOMİMETİK UYGULAMALARI

Yıl 2020, Cilt: 5 Sayı: 10, 101 - 118, 31.07.2020

Öz

Canlılar milyonlarca yıl boyunca aşırı çevresel etkilere karşı koyacak veya adapte olacak çok özel yapılar ve davranışlar geliştirmiştir. Bu nedenle insanoğlu varoluşundan itibaren bunların gizemlerini çözmeye çalışmış ve kendisine örnek olarak almıştır. Doğadaki gelişmiş sistemler verimlilik, yenilikçilik ve sürdürülebilirlik açılarından insanlığa örnek olmaktadır. Verimlilik ve sürdürülebilirlik daha çok üretim ve kullanım ile ilgili süreçler ile ilgili iken yenilikçilik yeni ileri, fonksiyonel özellikler kazandırmak ve/veya performansın arttırılmasını sağlayan malzemeler ile ilgilidir. Günümüzde doğadaki sistemleri ve/veya malzemeleri taklit ederek yeni ürünler geliştirme veya tasarımlar yapma işi biyomimetik olarak isimlendirilmektedir. Biyomimetik, tasarım, sanat, mimarlık, mühendislik ve temel bilimlerin farklı alanlarında uygulanmaktadır. İlk çağlardan beri doğa tekstil ve giysi uygulamalarına da ilham kaynağı olmuştur. Mühendislik ve temel bilimler alanlarında çalışanların ilgisi daha yoğun olmakla beraber biyomimetik, tekstil ve moda tasarımcılarına da esin kaynağı olarak çok değerli olanaklar sunmaktadır. Özellikle son yıllarda tasarımcıların biyomimetik alanına daha fazla ilgi duydukları ve özgün tasarımlar ortaya koydukları görülmektedir. Tekstilde biyomimetik uygulamalarına yönelik olarak literatürde çok fazla sayıda araştırma ve uygulama bulunmaktadır. Bu çalışmada öncelikle tekstil ve giyim sektörlerine yönelik biyomimetik temelli araştırmalar ve ürünler incelenmiş ve en yaygın uygulama alanları belirlenmiştir. Uygulamalar temel özellikleri incelenerek altı temel alt alana ayrılmıştır. Bu alanlar hidrofobik, sürtünme kuvvetini azaltan, fotonik, süper adezyon özelliğine sahip, UV koruyucu ve termal koruma amaçlı olarak geliştirilmiş ürünlerdir. Literatürde ve uygulamada tespit edilen ve yalnızca bu alanların kapsamına giren ürünler incelenmiştir. İncelenen ürünlerin temel mühendislik yaklaşımlarına değinilmiş ve tasarımcılara yol gösterici olacak şekilde örneklendirilmeye çalışılmıştır.

Kaynakça

  • Barthlott, W. & Neinhuis, C. (1997a). Characterisation and distribution of water-repellent, selfcleaning plant surfaces. Annals of Botany, 79(6), 667–677.
  • Barthlott, W. & Neinhuis, C. (1997b). Purity of the sacred lotus, or escape from contamination in biological surfaces. Planta, 202(1), 1-8.
  • Bayazıt, N. (2008). Tasarımı Anlamak, İstanbul: İdeal Kültür Yayıncılık.
  • Benyus, J.M. (2002). Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature. New York: HarperCollins.
  • Boesel, L.F., Greiner, C. & Arzt, E. (2010). Gecko-Inspired Surfaces: a Path to Strong and Reversible Dry Adhesives. Adv. Mater., 22, 2125-2137.
  • Darmanin T. & Guittard F. (2014). Recent advances in the potential applications of bioinspired superhydrophobic materials. Journal of Materials Chemistry A, 2, 16319-16359.
  • Das, S., Bhowmick, M., Chattopadhyay S.K. & Basak, S. (2015). Application of biomimicry in textiles. Current Science, 109(5), 893-901.
  • Das, S., Shanmugam, N., Kumar, A. & Jose, S. (2017). Potential of biomimicry in the field of textile technology. Bioinspired, Biomimetic and Nanobiomaterials, 6(4), 224-235.
  • Dawson, C., Vincent, J. F. V. & Rocca, A.M. (1997). How pine cones open. Nature, 390, 668.
  • Dyer, B. (2015). The controversy of sports technology: a systematic review. Springer Plus, 4(524).
  • Eadie, L. & Ghosh, T.K. (2001). Biomimicry in textiles: past, present and potential. An overview. J. R. Soc. Interface, 8, 761-775.
  • Gester, M. (2007). Integrating biomimetics into product development. Biomimetics: strategies for product design inspired by nature. DTI Global Watch Mission Report, 38–41.
  • Hollington, G. (2007). Biomimetics and product design. Biomimetics: strategies for product design inspired by nature. DTI Global Watch Mission Report, 64.
  • Kapsali, V. & Dunamore, P. (2008). Biomimetic principles in clothing technology. In Biologically inspired textiles (Eds. Abbott, A. and Ellison, M.), (117-136), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kapsali, V. (2009). Biomimetics and the design of outdoor clothing. In Textiles for Cold Weather Apparel (Ed. Williams, J.T.), (113-130), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kapsali, V. (2018). Biomimetic principles for design of water repellent surfaces. In Waterproof and Water Repellent Textiles and Clothing (Ed. Williams, J.T.), (121-135), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kuday, I. (2009). Tasarım Sürecini Destekleyici Faktör Olarak Biyomimikri Kavramının İncelenmesi. Yayınlanmamış Yüksek Lisans Tezi, MSGSÜ Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü.
  • Nazemi, S., Khajavi R., Far, H.R., Yazdanshenas, M.E. & Raad, M. (2018). Effect of hydrophobic finishing on drag force of swimwear. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30(1), 2-15.
  • Özgür, H., Gemici, Z. ve Bayındır M. (2007). Akıllı Nanoyüzeyler. Bilim ve Teknik Dergisi, 473, 52-56.
  • Saito, A. (2011). Material Design and Structural Color Inspired by Biomimetic Approach. Science and Technology of Advanced Materials, 12(6).
  • Santos, D., Heyneman, B., Sangbae, K., Esparza, N. & Cutkosky, M.R. (2008). Gecko-inspired climbing behaviors on vertical and overhanging surfaces. In: Proceedings of IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation, ICRA 2008. Pasadena: USA.
  • Schmitt, O. (1969). Some interesting and useful biomimetic transforms. In: Proceedings of 3rd Int. Biophysics Congress (p. 297). Paris: France.
  • Singh, A. V., Rahman, A., Kumar, N. S., Aditi, A. S., Galluzzi, M., Bovio, S., Barozzi, S., Montani E. & Parazzoli, D. (2012). Bio-inspired approaches to design smart fabrics. Materials & Design, 36, 829-839.
  • Sun, M. (2020). Research and Application of Biomimetic Textile Materials in Fashion Design. IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 440.
  • Tavakoli, M. & Viegas, C. (2015). Bio-inspired climbing robots. In: T. D. Ngo (Ed.), Biomimetic Technologies (301-320). Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Teodorescu, M. (2014). Applied Biomimetics: A New Fresh Look of Textiles. Journal of Textiles, 1-9.
  • Weerasinghe, D.U., Perera, S. & Dissanayake, D.G.K. (2019). Application of biomimicry for sustainable functionalization of textiles: review of current status and prospectus. Textile Research Journal, 89(19–20), 4282–4294.
  • Wood, J. (2019). Bioinspiration in Fashion—A Review. Biomimetics, 4(16).
  • Resim 1: http://www.leonardodavincisinventions.com/war-machines/leonardo-da-vincis-tank/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 2: https://sites.psu.edu/biomimicrybws5565/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 3: Üst resim: Tavakoli, M. & Viegas, C. (2015). “Bio-inspired climbing robots.”, In: Biomimetic Technologies, Ed. Trung Dung Ngo, Woodhead Publishing, pp. 301-320.
  • Alt resim: Malshe, A., Rajurkar, K., Samant, A., Hansen, H. N., Bapat, S., & Jiang, W. (2013). Bioinspired functional surfaces for advanced applications. CIRP Annals, 62(2), p.607-628.
  • Resim 4: Üst resim: http://wthielicke.gmxhome.de/bionik/indexuk.htm (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020); Alt resim: Gömlek-https://www.offineeds.com/Turms-Anti-Stain-Shirt (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020), kumaş-https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/bfm%3A978-3-7643-8321- 3%2F11%2F1.pdf (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020) nanokaplama yapılmış polyester kumaşın yüzeyinde kaplama görülememektedir. Elektron mikroskobunda yüksek büyütmelerde kaplama görülebilmektedir.
  • Resim 5: Üst resimdeki köpekbalığı derisinin SEM görüntüsü: Bixler, G.D. & Bhushan, B. (2012). Bioinspired rice leaf and butterfly wing surface structures combining shark skin and lotus effects, Soft Matter, 8, p.11271–11284
  • Alt resimdeki mayo: https://www.popsci.com/technology/article/2012-07/speedos-super-fastsharkskin-inspired-swimsuit-actually-nothing-sharks-skin (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 6: http://www.bilimteknik.tubitak.gov.tr/system/files/nanoteknoloji_t.pdf Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 7: https://donnasgro.com/Morphotex-Dress (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 8: http://www.technologystudent.com/prddes1/biomimetic1.html (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2010)
  • Resim 9: https://www.immerse.education/leaf-out-of-natures-book/velcro/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 10: Üst resim: Cui, Y., Gong, H., Wang, Y., Li, D. & Bai, H. (2018). A Thermally Insulating Textile Inspired by Polar Bear Hair. Adv. Mater., 30, p. 1-8.
  • Alt resimdeki thermolite lif görüntüsü: https://karsu.com.tr/urunler/fonksiyonel-iplikler/ thermolite/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)

BIOMIMETIC APPLICATIONS IN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING DESIGN

Yıl 2020, Cilt: 5 Sayı: 10, 101 - 118, 31.07.2020

Öz

Living things have developed very specific structures and behaviours that will resist or adapt to extreme environmental impacts for millions of years. For this reason, human beings have tried to understand and solve the mysteries of nature through the ages. Advanced systems in nature set an example for humanity in terms of efficiency, innovation and sustainability. While efficiency and sustainability are more related to production and application, innovation is about materials that provide new advanced, functional properties and/or increase performance. Today, the work of developing new products or making designs by imitating the systems and materials in nature is called biomimetic. Biomimetic can be applied in different fields of design, art, architecture, engineering and basic sciences. Since ancient times, nature has also been a source of inspiration for textile and clothing applications. Although the interest of those working in the fields of engineering and basic sciences is more intense, biomimetic offers valuable opportunities to textile and fashion designers. Especially in recent years, it is seen that designers are more interested in biomimetic and they have created original designs. There are many research works and applications in the literature regarding biomimetic applications in textile. In this study, firstly, biomimetic based research and products for textile and clothing sectors are examined and the most common application areas are determined. The applications are divided into six basic sub-areas by examining their basic features. These are hydrophobic, low friction resistance, structural coloured photonic, super adhesive, UV protective and thermal insulating materials. Only products that have been identified in the literature and practice and fall within the scope of these areas have been examined. The main engineering approaches of the examined products are mentioned and tried to be exemplified to guide the designers.

Kaynakça

  • Barthlott, W. & Neinhuis, C. (1997a). Characterisation and distribution of water-repellent, selfcleaning plant surfaces. Annals of Botany, 79(6), 667–677.
  • Barthlott, W. & Neinhuis, C. (1997b). Purity of the sacred lotus, or escape from contamination in biological surfaces. Planta, 202(1), 1-8.
  • Bayazıt, N. (2008). Tasarımı Anlamak, İstanbul: İdeal Kültür Yayıncılık.
  • Benyus, J.M. (2002). Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature. New York: HarperCollins.
  • Boesel, L.F., Greiner, C. & Arzt, E. (2010). Gecko-Inspired Surfaces: a Path to Strong and Reversible Dry Adhesives. Adv. Mater., 22, 2125-2137.
  • Darmanin T. & Guittard F. (2014). Recent advances in the potential applications of bioinspired superhydrophobic materials. Journal of Materials Chemistry A, 2, 16319-16359.
  • Das, S., Bhowmick, M., Chattopadhyay S.K. & Basak, S. (2015). Application of biomimicry in textiles. Current Science, 109(5), 893-901.
  • Das, S., Shanmugam, N., Kumar, A. & Jose, S. (2017). Potential of biomimicry in the field of textile technology. Bioinspired, Biomimetic and Nanobiomaterials, 6(4), 224-235.
  • Dawson, C., Vincent, J. F. V. & Rocca, A.M. (1997). How pine cones open. Nature, 390, 668.
  • Dyer, B. (2015). The controversy of sports technology: a systematic review. Springer Plus, 4(524).
  • Eadie, L. & Ghosh, T.K. (2001). Biomimicry in textiles: past, present and potential. An overview. J. R. Soc. Interface, 8, 761-775.
  • Gester, M. (2007). Integrating biomimetics into product development. Biomimetics: strategies for product design inspired by nature. DTI Global Watch Mission Report, 38–41.
  • Hollington, G. (2007). Biomimetics and product design. Biomimetics: strategies for product design inspired by nature. DTI Global Watch Mission Report, 64.
  • Kapsali, V. & Dunamore, P. (2008). Biomimetic principles in clothing technology. In Biologically inspired textiles (Eds. Abbott, A. and Ellison, M.), (117-136), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kapsali, V. (2009). Biomimetics and the design of outdoor clothing. In Textiles for Cold Weather Apparel (Ed. Williams, J.T.), (113-130), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kapsali, V. (2018). Biomimetic principles for design of water repellent surfaces. In Waterproof and Water Repellent Textiles and Clothing (Ed. Williams, J.T.), (121-135), Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Kuday, I. (2009). Tasarım Sürecini Destekleyici Faktör Olarak Biyomimikri Kavramının İncelenmesi. Yayınlanmamış Yüksek Lisans Tezi, MSGSÜ Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü.
  • Nazemi, S., Khajavi R., Far, H.R., Yazdanshenas, M.E. & Raad, M. (2018). Effect of hydrophobic finishing on drag force of swimwear. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30(1), 2-15.
  • Özgür, H., Gemici, Z. ve Bayındır M. (2007). Akıllı Nanoyüzeyler. Bilim ve Teknik Dergisi, 473, 52-56.
  • Saito, A. (2011). Material Design and Structural Color Inspired by Biomimetic Approach. Science and Technology of Advanced Materials, 12(6).
  • Santos, D., Heyneman, B., Sangbae, K., Esparza, N. & Cutkosky, M.R. (2008). Gecko-inspired climbing behaviors on vertical and overhanging surfaces. In: Proceedings of IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation, ICRA 2008. Pasadena: USA.
  • Schmitt, O. (1969). Some interesting and useful biomimetic transforms. In: Proceedings of 3rd Int. Biophysics Congress (p. 297). Paris: France.
  • Singh, A. V., Rahman, A., Kumar, N. S., Aditi, A. S., Galluzzi, M., Bovio, S., Barozzi, S., Montani E. & Parazzoli, D. (2012). Bio-inspired approaches to design smart fabrics. Materials & Design, 36, 829-839.
  • Sun, M. (2020). Research and Application of Biomimetic Textile Materials in Fashion Design. IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 440.
  • Tavakoli, M. & Viegas, C. (2015). Bio-inspired climbing robots. In: T. D. Ngo (Ed.), Biomimetic Technologies (301-320). Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
  • Teodorescu, M. (2014). Applied Biomimetics: A New Fresh Look of Textiles. Journal of Textiles, 1-9.
  • Weerasinghe, D.U., Perera, S. & Dissanayake, D.G.K. (2019). Application of biomimicry for sustainable functionalization of textiles: review of current status and prospectus. Textile Research Journal, 89(19–20), 4282–4294.
  • Wood, J. (2019). Bioinspiration in Fashion—A Review. Biomimetics, 4(16).
  • Resim 1: http://www.leonardodavincisinventions.com/war-machines/leonardo-da-vincis-tank/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 2: https://sites.psu.edu/biomimicrybws5565/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 3: Üst resim: Tavakoli, M. & Viegas, C. (2015). “Bio-inspired climbing robots.”, In: Biomimetic Technologies, Ed. Trung Dung Ngo, Woodhead Publishing, pp. 301-320.
  • Alt resim: Malshe, A., Rajurkar, K., Samant, A., Hansen, H. N., Bapat, S., & Jiang, W. (2013). Bioinspired functional surfaces for advanced applications. CIRP Annals, 62(2), p.607-628.
  • Resim 4: Üst resim: http://wthielicke.gmxhome.de/bionik/indexuk.htm (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020); Alt resim: Gömlek-https://www.offineeds.com/Turms-Anti-Stain-Shirt (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020), kumaş-https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/bfm%3A978-3-7643-8321- 3%2F11%2F1.pdf (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020) nanokaplama yapılmış polyester kumaşın yüzeyinde kaplama görülememektedir. Elektron mikroskobunda yüksek büyütmelerde kaplama görülebilmektedir.
  • Resim 5: Üst resimdeki köpekbalığı derisinin SEM görüntüsü: Bixler, G.D. & Bhushan, B. (2012). Bioinspired rice leaf and butterfly wing surface structures combining shark skin and lotus effects, Soft Matter, 8, p.11271–11284
  • Alt resimdeki mayo: https://www.popsci.com/technology/article/2012-07/speedos-super-fastsharkskin-inspired-swimsuit-actually-nothing-sharks-skin (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 6: http://www.bilimteknik.tubitak.gov.tr/system/files/nanoteknoloji_t.pdf Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 7: https://donnasgro.com/Morphotex-Dress (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 8: http://www.technologystudent.com/prddes1/biomimetic1.html (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2010)
  • Resim 9: https://www.immerse.education/leaf-out-of-natures-book/velcro/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
  • Resim 10: Üst resim: Cui, Y., Gong, H., Wang, Y., Li, D. & Bai, H. (2018). A Thermally Insulating Textile Inspired by Polar Bear Hair. Adv. Mater., 30, p. 1-8.
  • Alt resimdeki thermolite lif görüntüsü: https://karsu.com.tr/urunler/fonksiyonel-iplikler/ thermolite/ (Erişim tarihi: 17.03.2020)
Toplam 41 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil Türkçe
Bölüm Araştırma Makalesi
Yazarlar

Hilal Sevencan Bu kişi benim

Yayımlanma Tarihi 31 Temmuz 2020
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2020 Cilt: 5 Sayı: 10

Kaynak Göster

APA Sevencan, H. (2020). TEKSTİL VE GİYSİ TASARIMINDA BİYOMİMETİK UYGULAMALARI. Uluslararası Disiplinlerarası Ve Kültürlerarası Sanat, 5(10), 101-118.