KÜBİZM VE ART DECO ÖRNEĞİNDE 20. YÜZYIL BAŞLARINDA AVRUPA’DA MODA VE PLASTİK SANAT İLİŞKİSİ

Year 2017, Issue: 7, 248 - 264, 30.12.2017

Ayşe Günay

Abstract

20. yüzyılın ilk çeyreği geçirdiği toplumsal dönüşüm, yarattığı sanatsal anlayış ve buna uyumlu tasarım anlayışı ile hem plastik sanatlar, hem de dekoratif sanatlar açısından önemli değişim ve dönüşümlerin yaşandığı bir dönem olmuştur. Başta Kübizm ve Art Deco olmak üzere ortaya çıkan zengin ve çeşitli sanat ve tasarım stilleri dönemin ruhunu yansıtmış ve tüm yaratıcı disiplinlerde kendini göstermiştir. Dönemin giysi modası ve yaratılan resimler hem Kübizm, hem de Art Deco’da var olan yeni ve ortak plastik sanat ve tasarım dilini yansıtmış ve vurgulamıştır. Giysi modasında Kübizmin etkisiyle üç boyutlu, katı, yuvarlak, kavisli, statik ve abartılı biçimlerin yerini, daha çok iki boyutlu hissedilen, yumuşak, akışkan, dörtgen, düz, çizgisel, sade ve basit biçimlerin aldığını söylemek mümkündür. Benzer şekilde Kübist sanat da figürleri iki boyutta algılamış; onları geometrik biçimler olarak görüp yeniden yapılandırmıştır. Biçim, hacim ve kütleyi soyutlayan her iki anlayış da birbirinden esinlenmiş ve dönemin ortak sanat ve tasarım dilini yansıtmıştır. 

Keywords

Kübizm, Art Deco, Chanel, moda

THE RELATION OF FASHION AND PLASTIC ARTS IN EUROPE IN THE BEGINNING OF THE 20TH CENTURY: CUBISM AND ART DECO

Abstract

The first quarter of the 20th century was the  era of important changes and transformations both for plastic arts and decorative arts associated with the social transformation, the sense of art and the sense of design compatible with this art. The rich and diverse art and design styles, notably Cubism and Art Deco, reflected the spirit of the era and revealed itself in all creative disciplines. The fashion and the paintings of the era reflected and emphasised the new and common plastic art and design language existed both in Art Deco and Cubism. It is possible to say that, in fashion design under the influence of Cubism, three dimensional, rigid, round, curvy, static, and exaggerated shapes were replaced by sense of two dimensional, soft, fluid, rectangular, plain, linear and simple shapes. Similarly, Cubist art perceived the figures in two dimensions; viewed them as geometric shapes and restructured them. Both philosophies which abstracted the shape, volume and mass, were inspired from each other and reflected the common art and design language of the era.

Keywords

Cubism, Art Deco, Chanel, fashion

References

• Antmen, Ahu. 2009. İstanbul, Sanatçılardan Yazılar ve Açıklamalarla 20. Yüzyılda Batı Sanatında Akımlar, İstanbul: Sel Yayıncılık.
• Battistini, Matilde. 2001. ArtBook Picasso Sanata Adanan Bir Yaşam, çev. Cemal Kaan Emek, Ankara: Dost Kitabevi.
• Hennessy, Dorling (ed.). 2012. Fashion The Ultimate Book Of Costume And Style, London: Dorling Kindersley.
• Lucie-Smith, Edward. 2004. 20. Yüzyılda Görsel Sanatlar, çev. E. Kılıç, B. Kovulmaz ve O. Akınhay, İstanbul: Akbank Kültür Sanat Merkezi.
• Mackrell, Alice. 2005. Art And Fashion The Impact of Art on Fashion and Fashion on Art, London: Batsford.
• Martin, Richard Harrison. 1999. Cubism And Fashion, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
• National Gallery of Art. 2013. “Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929 When Art Danced with Music” Sergi Kataloğu, Washington: National Gallery of Art. Robinson, Michael ve Rosalind, Ormiston. 2008. Art Deco: The Golden Age of Graphic Art and Illustration, London: Flame Tree.
• Seeling, Charlotte. 1999. Fashion The Century Of The Designer 1900-1999, Cologne: Könemann.
• Tortora, Phyllis G. ve Eubank, Keith. 2010. Survey Of Historic Costume, New York: Fairchild Books.
• İnternet Kaynakları
• http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82597 (30/10/2016)
• https://pinsndls.com/2012/07/23/fashion-in-black-white-part-iv-graphics/ (30/10/2016)
• Görsel Kaynaklar Figür 1. https://ondinedecadierdeveauce.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/05861george_braque_muse_e_imaginaire_maison_de_l_estaque_1908.jpg (10.10.2016)
• Figür 2. https://www.tumblr.com/search/post%20impressionism%20through%20surrealism (10.10.2016)
• Figür 3. https://www.wikiart.org/en/fernand-leger/the-woman-with-the-armchair-1913 (10.10.2016)
• Figür 4. Robinson, M., Rosalind, O. 2008. Art Deco: The Golden Age of Graphic Art and Illustration. London: Flame Tree. s.82.
• Figür 5. Robinson, M., Rosalind, O. (2008). Art Deco: The Golden Age of Graphic Art and Illustration, London: Flame Tree. s.81.
• Figür 6. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82607 (10.10.2016)
• Figür 7. Fukai, A., Suoh, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., Nie, R. (2006). Fashion A History From The 18th Century To The 20th Century Volume II: 20th Century, Köln: Taschen. s.340.
• Figür 8. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2009.300.1289/ (12.10.2016) Figür 9. https://tr.pinterest.com/pin/73535406391952337/ (12.10.2016)
• Figür 10. https://lovinglifeandbeingabitch.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/1927b.jpg (12.10.2016) Figür 11. https://lovinglifeandbeingabitch.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/1924a.jpg (12.10.2016) Figür 12. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/94705 (12.10.2016)
• Figür 13. Fukai, A., Suoh, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., Nie, R. (2006). Fashion A History From The 18th Century To The 20th Century Volume II: 20th Century. Köln: Taschen. s.467.
• Figür 14. Fukai, A., Suoh, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., Nie, R. (2006). Fashion A History From The 18th Century To The 20th Century Volume II: 20th Century. Köln: Taschen. s.438.
• Figür 15. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82563 (13.10.2016)
• Figür 16. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/94705 (13.10.2016)
• Figür 17. http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1189-view-revolutionary-profilegabrielle-chanel.html (13.10.2016)
• Figür 18. http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1189-view-revolutionary-profilegabrielle-chanel.html (13.10.2016)
• Figür 19. http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1189-view-revolutionary-profilegabrielle-chanel.html (13.10.2016)