BAZI MEKANIKSEL DERI VE TEKSTIL STANDART METOTLARININ UYGULAMALI OLARAK KARŞILAŞTIRILMASI

Öz

Kumaşlar, deriler ve suni malzemeler yapısal bakımdan farklı özellikler göstermektedirler. Örneğin kumaş materyali eğer dokumaysa ipliklerin belli bir sistemle birbirlerine dik bir açı ile bağlanmasıyla oluşmakta, diğer bir yandan deri ise tamamen doğal olarak kompleks kolajen liflerinin kendilerine özgü ve alanına bağlı olarak farklı açılar ile bağlanmasıyla oluşmaktadır. Ayrıca suni malzemeler ise tamamen farklı olarak PVC ve PU kullanılarak üretilmektedirler. Bu yapısal farklılıklar özellikle mukavemet özelliklerine doğrudan etki etmektedir ve bu nedenle Türk Standartları Enstitüsü (TSE) tekstil ve deri malzemeler için farklı test yöntemleri sunmaktadır. Bu standartlar arasında test numunelerinin şekli/boyutu, çene aralığı, hızı vb. farklılıklar mevcuttur. Derinin pahalı ve sınırlı bir alana sahip olması nedeniyle deri standartlarının numune boyutları tekstil standardında belirtilen boyutlardan daha küçüktür ancak tekstil standartlarındaki numune boyutları ipek, gümüş katkılı kumaşlar, vicuna vb. pahalı tekstil malzemeleri için sorun olabilmektedir. Bu çalışmanın amacı, tekstil ve deri standart yöntemlerinden elde edilen sonuçlar arasındaki farklılıkları incelemektir. Çalışma kapsamında, hem deri hem de tekstil standart metotları uygulanarak iki farklı tabaklanmış giysilik derinin, bir suni malzemenin ve iki farklı dokuma kumaşın çekme mukavemeti, uzama değerleri ve yırtılma yükü değerleri elde edilmiştir. Çekme mukavemeti ve uzama değerlerinde iki metot arasında tüm materyallerde istatistiki olarak fark çıkarken, yırtılma yükü değerlerinde fark gözlemlenmemiştir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Deri
• Kumaş
• Suni Malzeme
• Mekaniksel Özellikler
• Standartlar

PRACTICALLY COMPARISON OF SOME MECHANICAL STANDARD TEST METHODS FOR LEATHER AND TEXTILE

Öz

Fabrics, leathers and artificial materials show structurally different properties. For example, if a fabric material is woven, it is formed by connecting the threads at a right angle to each other with a certain system; on the other hand, leather is formed by naturally binding complex collagen fibers with specific and different angles depending on their area. Also, artificial materials are produced disparately using PVC and PU. These structural differences directly affect the mechanical properties of materials and therefore Turkish Standards Institute (TSE) offers different test methods for textile and leather materials. There are some differences between these standards according to the shape/size of test samples, jaw length, speed, etc. Since leather is an expensive material and has a limited area, sample sizes of leather standards are smaller than the dimensions specified in the textile standard; however, sample sizes in textile standards can be a problem for some expensive textile materials e.g., silk, silver-added fabrics, vicuna, etc. The aim of this study is to examine the differences between the results obtained from the textile and leather standard methods. In this scope, the tensile strength, elongation and tear load values of the two different tanned garment leathers, artificial material, and two different kinds of woven fabrics were obtained by applying both leather and textile standard methods. While there was a statistical difference between the two methods in tensile strength and elongation values for all materials, no difference was observed in tear load values.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Leather
• Fabric
• Artificial Material
• Mechanical Properties
• Standards

Kaynakça

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