KÜRESEL DEĞER ZİNCİRLERİNİN YÖNETİŞİMİ VE TÜRKİYE HAZIR GİYİM SEKTÖRÜNÜN KÜRESEL DEĞER ZİNCİRLERİNE ENTEGRASYONU

Yıl 2023, Sayı: 4, 30 - 49, 25.10.2023

Mehmet Ali Engin , Zeki Parlak

Öz

Hazır giyim sektörü düşük sabit maliyetler ve emek yoğun üretim nedeniyle diğer gelişmekte olan ülkelerde olduğu gibi Türkiye içinde ulusal kalkınmada bir katalizör görevi görmektedir. 198O’lerden önce uygulanan ekonomi politikaları sonucu oluşan güçlü tekstil sektörü varlığı, ülke içerisinde üretim için gerekli emtialarına düşük maliyetli olarak bulunması, 1980’lerden itibaren ihracata yönelik ekonomi politikalarının benimsenmesi, 1990’larda yabancı yarımcıların tam paket üretimine yönelik artan talebi ve Türkiye’de yabancı yatırımcıların satın alma ofisleri kurmaları, Türkiye’nin küresel hazır giyim değer zincirine tam paket üretici olarak girmesini sağlamıştır. Türkiye’de hazır giyim sektöründe çalışan vasıflı işgücünün varlığı Türkiye’nin küresel hazır giyim değer zincirlerinde daha üst segmentlere girmesini sağlamıştır. 2000’li yıllardan itibaren Türk hazır giyim tedarikçileri tam paket üretimde ek olarak tasarım aşamasını da ekleyerek kendi tararım ve koleksiyonlarını oluşturmaya başlamışlardır. Aynı yıllarda bazı Türk hazır giyim tedarikçileri de kendi markalarını oluşturarak markalı ürün üretici konumuna yükselmişlerdir. Bu doğrultuda Türkiye küresel hazır giyim değer zincirinin yüksek katma değerli segmentlerine entegre olmuştur.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Küresel Değer Zinciri, Hazır Giyim Sektörü, Türkiye Hazır Giyim Sektörü

GOVERNANCE OF GLOBAL VALUE CHAINS AND INTEGRATION OF TURKISH APPAREL INDUSTRY INTO GLOBAL VALUE CHAINS

Öz

The apparel sector acts as a catalyst for national development in Turkey, as in other developing countries, due to its low fixed costs and labor-intensive production. The strong presence of the textile sector, which emerged as a result of the economic policies implemented before the 1980s, the low cost of the commodities required for production within the country, the adoption of export-oriented economic policies since the 1980s, the increasing demand of foreign manufacturers for full package production in the 1990s, and the The establishment of purchasing offices by foreign investors enabled Turkey to enter the global apparel value chain as a full package manufacturer. The presence of a skilled workforce working in the apparel sector in Turkey has enabled Turkey to enter higher segments in the global apparel value chains. Since the 2000s, Turkish apparel suppliers have started to create their own designs and collections by adding the design phase in addition to full package production. In the same years, some Turkish apparel suppliers created their own brands and became branded product manufacturers. Accordingly, Turkey has been integrated into the high value-added segments of the global apparel value chain.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Global Value Chain, Apparel Sector, Turkish Apparel Sector

Kaynakça

• Bair, J. & Gereffi, G. (2003). “Upgrading, Uneven Development and Jobs in the North American Apparel Industry”. Global Networks, 3(2): 143–169.
• Evgenıev, E. & Gereffı, G. (2008). "Textile and Apparel Firms in Turkey and Bulgaria: Exports, Local Upgrading and Dependency". Economic Studies Journal, 17(3): 148-179.
• Fernandez-Stark, K., Frederıck, S. & Gereffı, G. (2011). “The Apparel Global Value Chain: Economic Upgrading and Workforce Development”. Duke University Center On Globalization, Governance And Competitiveness, Ggc Researchers Reports, November 17.
• Fessehaıe, J. & Morris, M. (2018). “Global Value Chains and Sustainable Development Goals: What Role for Trade And Industrial Policies?”. International Centre for Trade and Sustainable Development (Ictsd), Geneva.
• Frederick, S. & Gereffi, G. (2011). “Upgrading And Restructuring in the Global Apparel Value Chain: Why China and Asia Are Outperforming Mexico and Central America”. International Journal of Technological Learning Innovation and Development, 4(1-2-3): 67-95.
• Gereffi, G. (1994). “The Organization of Buyer-Driven Global Commodity Chains: How U. S. Retailers Shape Overseas Production Networks”. Gereffi, G., Korzeniewicz, M. (Ed.), Commodity Chains And Global Capitalism, Ct: Praeger, London, 95-122.
• Gereffı, G. (1999). "International Trade and Industrial Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain". Journal of International Economics, 48(1): 37-70.
• Gereffi, G. (2001). “Beyond the Producer-Driven/Buyer-Driven Dichotomy: The Evolution of Global Value Chain in the Internet Era”. Ids Bulletin, 32(3): 30-40.
• Gereffi, G., Humphrey, J. & Sturgeon, T. (2005). “The Governance of Global Value Chains”. Review of International Political Economy, 12(1): 78-104.
• Gereffi, G. & Fernandez-Stark, K. (2011). “Global Value Chain Analysis: A Primer, Durham”. Duke University Center on Globalization, Governance & Competitiveness (Cggc). Http://Www.Cggc.Duke.Edu/Pdfs/2011-05-31_Gvc_Analysis_A_Primer.Pdf Erişim Tarihi:25.03.2018.
• Gereffi, G. & Frederıck, S. (2010). “The Global Apparel Value Chain, Trade and the Crisis: Challenges and Opportunities for Developing Countries”. The World Bank Development Research Group Trade And Integration Team, Policy Research Working Paper 5281.
• Gereffı, G. & Memodovic, O. (2003), The Global Apparel Value Chain: What Prospects for Upgrading By Developing Countries, United Nations Industrial Development Organization, Sectoral Studies Series, Vienna. Itc Trade Map, Https://Www.Trademap.Org/ Erişim Tarihi: 25.10.2021.
• Kutluksaman, M., Mutlu, I., & Unluaslan, E., (2012). “Turkey’s Textiles And Apparel Cluster Microeconomics of Competitiveness”, Https://Www.İsc.Hbs.Edu/Documents/Resources/Courses/Moc-Course-At Harvard/Pdf/Student-Projects/Moc%20-%20turkey%20textiles%20and%20apparel%20cluster.Pdf Erişim Tarihi: 12.05.2022.
• Lee, J. & Gereffi, G. (2015). “Global Value Chains, Rising Power Firms and Economic and Social Upgrading”. Critical Perspectives On International Business, 11(3/4): 319-339.
• Morris, M. & Barnes, J. (2009). Globalization, The Changed Global Dynamics Of The Clothing And Textile Value Chains And The Impact On Sub-Saharan Africa, Unıdo Research And Statistics Branch Working Paper 10.
• Neidik, B. & Gereffi, G. (2006). "Explaining Turkey's Emergence And Sustained Competitiveness As A Full-Package Supplier Of Apparel". Environment And Planning, 38(12): 2285–2303.
• Özben, O., Bulu, M. & Eraslan, H. (2004). “Turkish Textile and Clothing Industry After 2005: A Future Projection”. Iı. International İstanbul Textile Congress, 22-24 April, İstanbul.
• Ssk, “Aylık İstatistik Bültenleri”, Http://Eski.Sgk.Gov.Tr/Wps/Portal/Sgk/Tr/Kurumsal/İstatistik/Aylik_İstatistik_Bilgileri Erişim Tarihi: 15.04.2020.
• T. Bilgili, Z. (2013). Competitiveness of Turkish Textiles and Clothing Industry, Master's Thesis, The Graduate School of Social Sciences Of Middle East Technical University, Ankara.
• Tan, B. (2001). “Overview of the Turkish Textile and Apparel Industry”. Harvard University, Center For Textile And Apparel Research, Research Paper Series, February 2001.