Öz
Abstract: Clothing and accessories were used by the people to articulate the tremendous social and cultural richness of the civilization. Mughal Emperor Akbar’s biography ‘Akbar Nama’ (1595) is taken into account to understand the relationship between social status and clothing. A qualitative research method was used to identify the social roles and their honour, power, and status shown through their attires. The literature and the miniatures are studied parallelly to find out the details such as important figures and events illustrated in the miniatures, and later purposively selected figures were meticulously examined, putting forward their outer, and inner garments, headgear, shoes, accessories, and embellishments. The fabrics, materials, and colours are also taken into account as they are used according to the norms and conventions. Emperors, royals, governors, army men, servers, and entertainers figures show a transformation in their dress according to their profession, education level, religion, and economic social positioning. By examining the social and symbolic roles of clothing, we can gain insight into antiquity, and the purpose of the inscribed literature and miniatures.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Mughal India clothing Akbar-nama social status. Babürler Hindistan giyim Ekber-name sosyal statü.
Kaynakça
- Ansari, M. A. (1974). Social life of the Mughal Emperors. Allahabad, and New Delhi: Shanti Prakashan.
- Chaudhary, P. (2015). A study of Mughal emperial costumes and designs during 16th and 17th century. Ph.D. diss., Aligarh Muslim University.
- Babur, E. O. H. (1970). Baburnama or Tuzuk-i-Baburi. (trans.: A.S. Beveridge), New Delhi.
- Dimand, M. S. (1953). Mughal painting under Akbar the Great. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, 12(2), 46–51.
- Fazl, E., (1602). Akbarnama. ( trans.: H. Beveridge), Vol. 1-2-3, 1907. New Dehli.
- Fazl, E., (1602). Akbarnama.(trans.: H. Blochmann), Vol. I-2-3, 1927. New Delhi: Oriental Books Reprint Corporation.
- Godden, R. (1980). Gulbadan: Portrait of a rose princes at the Mughal court. London: The Felix Gluck Press.
- Goswamy, B.N. (1993). Indian costumes in the collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, Vol. 2, Gujrat: Museum Sarabhai Foundation.
- Hendrickson, H (1996), Clothing and difference: Embodied identities in colonial and post-colonial Africa. United Kingdom: Duke University Press.
- Irvine, W. (1903). The army of the Indian Moghuls: its organization and administration. United Kingdom: Luzac.
- Khurshid, M. (1997). A critical study of the social structure under the Mughal regime. Ancient Pakistan, 12, 147-168.
- Mukherjee, S. (2001). Royal Mughal ladies and their contributions. (P 81). New Delhi.
- Prakash, S. (2012). Mughal costumes (16th-18th century) and royal costumes of Jodhpur –a comparative study. Delhi: PhD diss. University of Delhi.
- Randhawa, M.S. (1983). Paintings of the Baburnama. New Delhi: National Museum.
- Untracht, O. (1997). The Mughal jewellery tradition. Jewellery of India, 344-345, 381. London: Thames and Hudson.
- Varma, P. K. (2010). Becoming Indian: The unfinished revolution of culture and identity. New Delhi: Penguin Books.
- Verma, S.P. (1978). Art and material culture in the paintings of Akbar’s Court. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing House.
Öz
Giysiler ve aksesuarlar, insanlar tarafından uygarlığın muazzam sosyal ve kültürel zenginliğini ifade etmek için kullanılagelmistir. Babür İmparatoru Akbar şahin biyografisi olarak yazılan 'Ekber Name' (1595) eseri Ekber şahin zamanındaki sosyal statü ve giyim kuşam arasındaki ilişkiyi anlamamiz için çok önemli bir yazı kaynağıdır. Giydikleri Kıyafetler aracılığıyla o zamanın insanına gösterilen saygi, elinde tuttuğu güç ve sosyal statüleri belirlenebilmektedir. Yani o zamandaki insanların toplumsal rollerini belirlemek için giyim kusam nitel bir araştırma yöntemi olarak kullanılnaktadir. Minyatürlerde tasvir edilen önemli şahsiyetler ve olaylar gibi detayların ortaya çıkarılması için literatür ve minyatürler paralel olarak incelenmiş ve daha sonra amaca uygun olarak seçilen figürlerin dış ve iç giysileri, başlıkları, ayakkabıları, aksesuarları ve süslemeleri ortaya konularak titizlikle incelenmiştir. Kullanılan kumaşlar, malzemeler ve renkler de normlara ve geleneklere göre kullanıldığından onlar da çok önem arz etmektedir. İmparatorlar, kraliyet mensupları, valiler, askerler, hizmetliler ve şovmen figürleri, mesleklerine, eğitim düzeylerine, dinlerine ve ekonomik sosyal konumlarına göre giyimlerinde bir dönüşüm gösterirler. Giysilerin toplumsal ve simgesel rolleri incelenerek, Ekber şah zamanındaki insanların toplum içindeki yerini, gücünü anlayabilmekteyiz. Aynı şekilde miniaturlerdeki giyim kuşam kardan da resmedilen şahsın sosyal statüsünü çıkartabilmekteyiz.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Kaynakça
- Ansari, M. A. (1974). Social life of the Mughal Emperors. Allahabad, and New Delhi: Shanti Prakashan.
- Chaudhary, P. (2015). A study of Mughal emperial costumes and designs during 16th and 17th century. Ph.D. diss., Aligarh Muslim University.
- Babur, E. O. H. (1970). Baburnama or Tuzuk-i-Baburi. (trans.: A.S. Beveridge), New Delhi.
- Dimand, M. S. (1953). Mughal painting under Akbar the Great. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, 12(2), 46–51.
- Fazl, E., (1602). Akbarnama. ( trans.: H. Beveridge), Vol. 1-2-3, 1907. New Dehli.
- Fazl, E., (1602). Akbarnama.(trans.: H. Blochmann), Vol. I-2-3, 1927. New Delhi: Oriental Books Reprint Corporation.
- Godden, R. (1980). Gulbadan: Portrait of a rose princes at the Mughal court. London: The Felix Gluck Press.
- Goswamy, B.N. (1993). Indian costumes in the collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, Vol. 2, Gujrat: Museum Sarabhai Foundation.
- Hendrickson, H (1996), Clothing and difference: Embodied identities in colonial and post-colonial Africa. United Kingdom: Duke University Press.
- Irvine, W. (1903). The army of the Indian Moghuls: its organization and administration. United Kingdom: Luzac.
- Khurshid, M. (1997). A critical study of the social structure under the Mughal regime. Ancient Pakistan, 12, 147-168.
- Mukherjee, S. (2001). Royal Mughal ladies and their contributions. (P 81). New Delhi.
- Prakash, S. (2012). Mughal costumes (16th-18th century) and royal costumes of Jodhpur –a comparative study. Delhi: PhD diss. University of Delhi.
- Randhawa, M.S. (1983). Paintings of the Baburnama. New Delhi: National Museum.
- Untracht, O. (1997). The Mughal jewellery tradition. Jewellery of India, 344-345, 381. London: Thames and Hudson.
- Varma, P. K. (2010). Becoming Indian: The unfinished revolution of culture and identity. New Delhi: Penguin Books.
- Verma, S.P. (1978). Art and material culture in the paintings of Akbar’s Court. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing House.
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | İngilizce |
|---|---|
| Konular | Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı |
| Bölüm | Makaleler |
| Yazarlar | |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 12 Haziran 2023 |
| Gönderilme Tarihi | 20 Aralık 2022 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2023 Cilt: 16 Sayı: 42 |
