Production, Characteristics and Applications of Hemp Fibres in Textile Industry

Öz

Hemp is a material that gains importance day by day in scientific, sectoral and economic aspects because of its renewable, sustainable and multi-purpose character. In fact, hemp is one of the oldest fibre plants used throughout human history. In spite of that, hemp cultivation has declined globally and it has reached its end-point in our country due to its use in marijuana production and the spread of synthetic fibres over time. Hemp, which is widely used in many different sectors such as textile, pharmaceutical, paper, biofuel, cosmetics and automotive, is an alternative plant with superior properties. Besides, hemp is expected to benefit sustainability because of its ecological characteristics. It is estimated that, rapid realization of return on investment to be made because climatic conditions in Turkey are suitable for growing hemp. In this study, the current studies on hemp have been researched and their prominent aspects have been evaluated and their contribution to the future of our country and the world has been mentioned.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Cannabis sativa,ecological textiles,bast fibres,hemp,sustainability

Kenevir Liflerinin Eldesi, Karakteristik Özellikleri ve Tekstil Endüstrisindeki Uygulamaları

Öz

Kenevir, yenilenebilir ve sürdürülebilir karakterde ve çok amaçlı bir ürün olması sebebiyle bilimsel, sektörel ve ekonomik yönlerden günden güne önem kazanan bir malzeme olmaktadır. Esasında kenevir bitkisi insanlık tarihi boyunca kullanılmış en eski lif bitkilerinden birisidir. Buna karşın kenevir üretimi, esrar eldesinde kullanılabilmesi ve zamanla sentetik liflerin yaygınlaşması sebebiyle küresel anlamda gerilemiş ve ülkemizde ise bitme noktasına gelmiştir. Tekstil, ilaç, kâğıt, biyoyakıt, kozmetik ve otomotiv gibi birçok farklı sektörde oldukça geniş bir kullanım alanı olan kenevir, petrol ve petrokimyanın kullanıldığı her alanda alternatif olan, üstün özelliklere sahip bir bitkidir. Ayrıca kenevirin, ekolojik özellikleri sebebiyle de sürdürülebilirliğe fayda sağlaması beklenmektedir. Türkiye’deki iklim şartları kenevir yetiştirmeye elverişli olduğu için yapılacak yatırımların geri dönüşünün hızlı bir şekilde gerçekleşmesi ön görülmektedir. Bu çalışmada kenevirle ilgili güncel çalışmalar araştırılmış ve öne çıkan yanları değerlendirilerek çevresel ve ekonomik anlamda ülkemiz ve dünya geleceği açısından katkılarından bahsedilmiştir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Cannabis sativa,ekolojik tekstiller,gövde lifleri,kenevir,sürdürülebilirlik

Kaynakça

1. Acar, M., Dönmez, A. (2016). Kenevire Farklı Bir Bakış. 2. Ulusal Biyoyakıtlar Sempozyumu Bildiriler Kitabı, 27-30 Eylül, 2016, Samsun, Türkiye, 265-270. Amaducci, S. (2003). HEMP-SYS. Journal of Industrial Hemp 8(2): 79-83.
2. Amaducci, S., Gusovius, H.J. (2010). Industrial Application of Natural Fibres: Properties and Technical Application, Chapter II Hemp – Cultivation, Extraction and Processing, Edited by Jöhn Mössig, Wiley Series in Renewable Resources, United Kingdom, 109-135.
3. Antony, S., Cherouat, A., Montay, G. (2018). Experimental, analytical and numerical analysis to investigate the tensile behaviour of hemp fibre yarns. Composite Structures 22: 482-490.
4. Aytaç, S. (2018). Endüstriyel Kenevir Gerçeği ve Ülkemizdeki Durum, Karadeniz Tarımsal Araştırma Enstitüsü Müdürlüğü Endüstriyel Kenevir Gerçeği Paneli, 2-3 Mayıs, 2018, Samsun.
5. Aziz, S.H., Ansell, M.P. (2004). Optimising the Properties of Green Composites, Green composites: Polymer Composites and the Environment, Edited by Caroline Baillie, Woodhead Publishing Series in Composites Science and Engineering, Cambridge, United Kingdom, 154–180.
6. Başer, İ., (2002). Doğal Lifler. Lif Bilgisi 2. Bölüm, Marmara Üniversitesi Döner Sermaye İşletmesi Teknik Eğitim Fakültesi Matbaa Birimi, 53-54.
7. Bengtsson, E. (2009). Obtaining High Quality Textile Fibre from Industrial Hemp Through Organic Cultivation. Bachelor Project at the LTJ Faculty, The Horticultural Programme 2009-03, Alnarp, Sweden, 40.
8. Célino, A., Fréour, S., Jacquemin, F., Casari, P. (2014). The hygroscopic behavior of plant fibers: a review. Frontiers in Chemistry 24: 1-12.

9. Cierpucha, W., Kozlowski, R., Mankowski, J., Wasko, J., Mankowski, T. (2004). Applicability of flax and hemp as raw materials for production of cotton-like fibres and blended yarns in Poland. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 3(47): 12-18.
10. Dai, D., Fan, M., Collins, P. (2013). Fabrication of nanocelluloses from hemp fibers and their application for the reinforcement of hemp fibers. Industrial Crops and Products 44: 192–199.
11. Delaney, T., Madigan, T. (2014). Beyond Sustainability: a Thriving Environment. Mcfarland&Company, USA.
12. Dreyer, J., Müssig, J., Koschke, N., Ibenthal, W.D., Harig, H. (2002). Comparison of enzymatically separated hemp and nettle fibre to chemically separated and steam exploded hemp fibre. Journal of Industrial Hemp 7(1): 43-59.
13. European Industrial Hemp Association(EIHA), URL:http://eiha.org/about/, (Erişim Tarihi: Eylül, 15, 2019).
14. Fuqua, M.A., Huo, S., Ulven, A.C., (2012). Natural fiber reinforced composites. Polymer Reviews 52(3): 259-320.
15. Gedik, G., Avinç, O.O., Yavaş, A. (2010). Kenevir lifinin özellikleri ve tekstil endüstrisinde kullanımıyla sağladığı avantajlar. Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi 4(3): 39-48.
16. Harmancıoğlu, M., Yazıcıoğlu, G. (1979). Bitkisel Lifler. Ege Üniversitesi Dergisi, Yayın No:33, 336.
17. Hautala, M., Pasila, A., Pirila, J. (2004). Use of hemp and flax in composite manufacture: a search for new production methods. Composites Part a Applied Science and Manufacturing 35: 11–16.
18. Herer, J. (1993). Die Wiederentdeckung Der Nutz-Pflanze. Zweitausendeins Verlag, Frankfurt Am Main, Germany, 325.
19. Hess, K.P. (1954). Textile Fibers and Their Use, J.B. Lippincott Company, Chapter 50, USA, 547.
20. Hwang, M.S, Ji, D.S. (2012). The effects of yarn number and liquid ammonia treatment on the physical properties of hemp woven fabrics. Fibers and Polymers 13(10): 1335-1340.
21. John, M.J., Thomas, S. (2008). Biofibers and biocomposites. Carbohydrate Polymers 71: 343–364.
22. Karus, M., Vogt, D. (2004). European hemp industry: cultivation, processing and product lines. Euphytica 140: 7–12.
23. Keller, A. Leupin, M., Mediavilla, V., Wintermantel, E. (2001). Influence of the growth stage of ındustrial hemp on chemical and physical properties of the fibres. Industrial Crops and Products 13(1): 35–48.
24. Kostic, M., Pejic, B., Skundric, P. (2008). Quality of chemically modified hemp fibers. Bioresource Technology 99: 94–99.
25. Marrot, L., Lefeuvre, A., Pontoire, B., Bourmaud, A., Baley, C. (2013). Analysis of the hemp fiber mechanical properties and their scattering (fedora 17). Industrial Crops and Products 51: 317–327.
26. Mediavilla, V., Leupin, M., Keller, A. (2001). Influence of growth stage of industrial hemp on the yield formation in relation to certain fibre quality traits. Industrial Crops and Products 13(1): 49–56.
27. Merdan, N., Koçak, D., Acar, K. (2012). Kenevir liflerinin konvansiyonel ve mikrodalga yöntemine göre maleik anhidrit ile yüzey modifikasyonu. İstanbul Ticaret Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Dergisi 11(22): 71-78.
28. Mustata, A., Mustata, Fstc. (2013). Moisture absorption and desorption in flax and hemp fibres and yarns. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 21, 3(99): 26-30.
29. Müssing, J., Karus, M., Frank, R.R. (2005). Bast and Other Plant Fibres, Chapter 1- Hemp, Woodhead Publishing, Edited by Robert R. Franck, United Kingdom, 176-200.
30. Mwaikambo, L.Y. (2006). Review of the history, properties and application of plant fibres. African Journal of Science and Technology (AJST) Science and Engineering Series 7(2): 120–133.
31. Orta Anadolu Kalkınma Ajansı. (2019). Kenevir Yetiştiriciliği. http://www.oran.org.tr/images/dosyalar/20190318134910_0.pdf, (Erişim Tarihi: Mayıs, 22, 2019).
32. Ouajai, S., Shanks, R.A., Hodzic, A. (2004). Morphological and grafting modifications of natural cellulose fibers. Journal of Applied Polymer Science 94: 2456–2465.
33. Özdemir, S., Tekoğlu, O. (2013). Ekolojik tekstil ürünlerinde kullanılan hammaddeler. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi 4(8): 27-30.
34. Özşeker, P.E., Dip, A., Dağlıoğlu, N., Gülmen, M.K. (2017). Sentetik kannabinoidler: yeni nesil esrar. Türk Aile Hekimleri Dergisi 21(1): 34-40.
35. Paulitz, J., Sigmund, I., Kosan, B., Meister, F. (2017). Lyocell fibers for textile processing derived from organically grown hemp. Procedia Engineering 200: 260–268.
36. Prade, T., Svensson, S., Andersson, A., Mattsson, J.E. (2011). Biomass and energy yield of ındustrial hemp grown for biogas and solid fuel. Biomass Bioenergy 35(7): 3040–3049.
37. Prade, T., Svensson, S., Mattsson, J.E. (2012). Energy balances for biogas and solid biofuel production from ındustrial hemp. Biomass Bioenergy 40: 36–52.
38. Qiguang, LBDJF., Dongcheng, W. (2011). Development of hemp cotton combed vortex yarn. Cotton Textile Technology 11.
39. Reddy, N., Yang, Y.Q. (2005). Biofibers from agricultural by products for ındustrial applications. Trends Biotechnology 23(1): 22–27.
40. Richardson, M., Zhang Z. (2001). Nonwoven hemp reinforced composites. Reinforced Plastics 45: 40–44.
41. Salentijn, E.M.J., Zhang, Q., Amaducci, S.,Yang, M., Trindade, L.M. (2014). New developments in fiber hemp (cannabissativa l.) breeding. Industrial Crops and Products 68: 32-41.
42. Satya, P., Maiti, R. (2013). Biofuel Crops–Production, Physiology and Genetics, Part III- Bast and Leaf Fibre Crops: Kenaf, Hemp, Jute, Agave, Etc., Edited by Emma Mccann, CAB International, Wallingford, United Kingdom, 292–311.
43. Seki, Y., Selli, F., Şen, K., Erdoğan, Ü.H. (2017). Kompozit malzeme üretiminde kullanılacak bitkisel liflerin alkali modifikasyonu sonrası morfolojik ve kimyasal yapılarındaki değişimin incelenmesi. Tekstil ve Mühendis 24(108): 222-232.
44. Shahzad, A. (2011). Hemp fiber and its composites – a review. Journal of Composite Materials 46(8), 973–986.
45. Stankovic, S.B. (2008). Static lateral compression of hemp/filament hybrid yarn knitted fabrics. Fibers and Polymers 9(2): 187-193.
46. Stankovic, S.B., Bizjak, M. (2014). Effect of yarn folding on comfort properties of hemp knitted fabrics. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(3): 202-2014.
47. Stankovic, S.B., Popovic, D., Poparic, G.B. (2008). Thermal properties of textile fabrics made of natural and regenerated cellulose fibers. Polymer Testing 27: 41–48.
48. Tserki, V., Zafeiropoulos, N.E., Simon, F., Panayiotou, C.A. (2005). A study of the effect of acetylation and propionylation surface treatments on natural fibers. Composites Part an Applied Science and Manufacturing 36: 1110–1118.
49. Turunen, L., Van Der Werf, H.M.G. (2007). The production chain of hemp and flax textile yarn and ıts environmental impacts. Journal of Industrial Hemp 12(2): 43-66.
50. Ulaş, E. (2018). Gerçek Köye Dönüş Projesi: Kenevir. Hatice Bahtiyar (Editör), Hiperlink Yayınları, İstanbul.
51. Zhang, H., Zhang, J., Gao, Y. (2014). Study on the relationship between blending ratio and performance of hemp/polyester yarn. Journal of Natural Fibers 11(2): 136-143.
52. Zhang, L.L., Zhu, R.Y., Chen, J.Y., Chen, J.M., Feng, X.X. (2008). Seawater-retting treatment of hemp and characterization of bacterial strains involved in the retting process. Process Biochemistry 43: 1195–1201.
53. Zhihai, S. (2011). Spinning of cotton hemp bamboo fiber blended yarn. Cotton Textile Technology 11.
54. Zimniewska, M., Wladyka-Przybylak, M., Mankowski, J. (2011). Cellulose Fibers: Bio- and Nano-Polymer Composites–Green Chemistry and Technology. Part I- Cellulosic Bast Fibers, Their Structure and Properties Suitable for Composite Applications, Springer-Verlag, 97-121.