Göç Bağlamında Yemeğin Rolü Nasıl Değerlendirilir?

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 10 Sayı: 1 - Yemek Kültürleri, 134 - 154, 19.07.2023

Hande Aral

https://doi.org/10.17572/mj2023.1.134154

Öz

Yiyecekler ve yemek kültürüne dair söylemler, performanslar ve “gündelik” seçimler aracılığıyla kimlik, topluluk ve ulus canlandırılır; sınıf ve statü sembolik olarak pekiştirilir; ayrımcı/ırkçı/saldırgan ya da dayanışma/birlik/sevinç gibi duygular harekete geçirilir. Bu perspektiften bakıldığında yiyecekler son derece iletişimsel kabul edilir. Göç bağlamında ise yemek ve yemek ritüelleri kültür ve kimliği aktarmanın, dayanışmanın ve ekonomik özerkliği sağlamanın bir yoludur. Öte yandan göçle beraber dolaşımı hızlanan yiyecekler küresel kentlerin tüketim trendlerinin bir parçası olur, etnik metalaşmaya uğrar ve ayrışma/dışlamanın somutlaştığı kanallar haline gelebilir. Bu çalışmada, göç bağlamında yiyeceklerin ve yemek kültürünün rolünü farklı veçhelerden değerlendiren tartışmalara yer verilmiştir. İlgili alanyazında göç bağlamında yiyeceklerin rolü iki ana perspektif etrafında hareket ediyor görünse de yiyeceklere ilişkin sosyal potansiyellerin çok boyutlu olduğu ve atfedilen anlamların sürekli dönüştüğü söylenebilir. Bu nedenle göç ve yemek odaklı çalışmalarda çok katmanlı bir bakış açısını benimseyen ve göçmenleri mağdur değil etkin özneler olarak görmeyi öneren araştırmalar daha çok açılım sağlayabilecektir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

göç ve yemek, etnik mutfak, etnik yemek, kültürel gıda sömürgeciliği, yemek kültürü

How to Evaluate the Role of Food in the Context of Migration?

Öz

Through discourses, performances, and “everyday” choices about food and food culture, identity, community, and nation are revived; class and status are symbolically reinforced; emotions such as segregation/racism/aggression or solidarity/unity/joy are activated. From this perspective, food is considered extremely communicative. In the context of migration, food, and food rituals are a way of transferring culture and identity, ensuring solidarity and economic autonomy. On the other hand, food whose circulation accelerates with migration becomes part of the consumption trends of global cities, undergoes ethnic commodification, and may become channels where segregation/exclusion is embodied. This study includes discussions that evaluate the role of food and food culture from different aspects in the context of migration. Although the role of food in the context of migration seems to move around two main perspectives in the relevant literature, it can be said that the social potentials related to food are multidimensional and the meanings attributed to it are constantly transforming. For this reason, research that adopt a multi-layered aspect and propose to see immigrants as active subjects rather than victims in studies focused on migration and food may provide a broader perspective.

Anahtar Kelimeler

migration and food, ethnic cuisine, ethnic food, cultural food colonialism, food culture

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