DOĞADAN İLHAM ALAN ÇEVRE DOSTU TASARIMLAR İÇİN BİR POTANSİYEL OLARAK LYOCELL LİFLERİ VE DOĞAL BOYALAR

Yıl 2023, , 201 - 213, 15.06.2023

Özge Özen Özlenen Erdem İşmal

https://doi.org/10.20488/sanattasarim.1313959

Cited By: 2

Öz

Bu deneysel çalışmada, çevre dostu bir lif olan lyocell kumaşın renklendirilmesi için, çeşitli bitkiler ve
bitkisel atıklardan elde edilen doğal boyar maddeler ile birlikte düşük miktarlarda mordan maddeleri
kullanılarak, sürdürülebilirlik ve eko tasarım bağlamında doğal boyamacılığa dikkat çekilmiştir. Çevre dostu
rejenere selülozik esaslı bir lif olan lyocell kumaşın çeşitli bitkiler ve bitkisel atıklarla boyanma özellikleri
incelenerek bir renk paleti oluşturulmuştur. Kaynakçada lyocell lifinin doğal boyalarla renklendirilmesiyle
ilgili az sayıda çalışma bulunmaktadır. Bademin dış yeşil kabuğu, pirina, ceviz kabuğu, soğan kabuğu, nar
kabuğu, zerdeçal, kök boya, biberiye ve tarçın gibi doğal boyar madde kaynakları, potasyum alüminyum
sülfat (şap), demir II sülfat, bakır II sülfat mordan maddeleri ile birlikte ön mordanlama yöntemine göre
boyamada kullanılmışlardır. Genel olarak şap ve bakır II sülfat mordanları ile birbirine yakın tonlar, demir
II sülfat mordanı ile en koyu renkler elde edilmiş, doğal boya cinsine bağlı olarak renk tonlarının değiştiği
gözlemlenmiştir. Sarı, turuncu, bej, açık pembe, gülkurusu, yağ yeşili, kahverengi, toprak, kimyon renkleri
ve tonları elde edilmiştir. Soğan kabuğu, kök boya ve tarçın ile yapılan boyamalarda mordanlar arasında
önemli derecede renk tonu farklılıkları olduğu tespit edilmiştir. Görsel kıyaslamanın yanı sıra renk ölçümleri
ve yıkama haslık özellikleri değerlendirilmiştir. Mümkün olan en az mordan ve boyar madde miktarları
kullanılarak oldukça geniş bir renk paleti ve yıkama haslık değerleri 4-5 olarak elde edilmiştir

Anahtar Kelimeler

Lyocell, Doğal boyama, Mordan, Tasarım, Sürdürülebilirlik

LYOCELL FIBERS AND NATURAL DYES AS A POTENTIAL FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY DESIGNS INSPIRED BY NATURE

Öz

In this experimental study, natural dyeing was highlighted in the context of sustainability and eco design
using low amounts of mordants with natural dyes obtained from various plants and plant wastes to dye
environmentally friendly lyocell fabric. A color palette was created by examining the dyeing properties of
lyocell fabric, an environmentally friendly regenerated cellulosic fiber, with various plants and plant wastes.
There are few studies on the dyeing of lyocell fiber with natural dyes in the literature. Natural dyes such as
almond husk, olive pomace, walnut shell, onion skin, pomegranate peel, turmeric, madder, rosemary and
cinnamon were used in natural dyeing with potassium aluminum sulfate (alum), iron II sulfate, copper II
sulfate mordants according to the pre-mordanting method. Generally, similar hues with alum and copper II
sulfate mordants and the darkest colours with iron II sulfate mordant were obtained and the colour shades
changed depending on the type of natural dye. Shades of yellow, orange, beige, light pink, rose, oil green,
brown, earth color and cumin were generated. There are significant colour differences between mordants in
dyeings with onion peel, madder and cinnamon. In addition to visual comparison, color measurements and
washing fastness properties were evaluated. A quite wide color gamut and washing fastness values of 4-5 were
achieved using the minimum possible amounts of mordants and dyes.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Lyocell, Natural dyeing, Mordant, Design, Sustainability

Kaynakça

• Ajmal, M., Adeel, S., Azeem, M., Zuber, M., Akhtar, N., and Iqbal, N. (2014). Modulation of pomegranate peel colourant characteristics for textile dyeing using high energy radiations. Industrial Crops and Products, 58, 188-193. doi: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2014.04.026.
• Avinc, O., Celik, A., Gedik, G., ve Yavas, A. (2013). Natural dye extraction from waste barks of Turkish red pine (Pinus brutia Ten.) timber and eco-friendly natural dyeing of various textile fibers. Fibers and Polymers, 14(5), 866-873. DOI: 10.1007/s12221- 013-0866-0.
• Banu, M. N., ve Fathima, M. S. (2018). A comparative study on the color fastness properties of Lyocell and Bamboo fabrics after dyeing with a natural dye: Chavalkodi. International Journal of Home Science, 4(1), 37-44. DOI: 10.1002/cbdv.201900442.
• Ellams, D. L., Christie, R. M., and Robertson, S. (2014). An approach to sustainable coloration of lyocell fabrics by screen printing using extracts of leaves and bark from eucalyptus. Coloration Technology, 130(1), 48-53. DOI: 10.1111/cote.12056.
• Huong, B. M., and Hue, T. T. K. (2019). A study of sustaınable coloratıon of lyocell fabrıcs usıng extracts of tropıcal onıon skıns. Vietnam Journal of Science and Technology, 57(3A), 69-76. DOI:10.15625/2525-2518/57/3A/14082.
• İşmal, Ö. E. (2019). Doğal boya uygulamalarının değişen yüzü ve yenilikçi yaklaşımlar. Yedi, (22), 41-58. doi: 10.17484/ yedi.547726.
• İşmal, Ö. E., Özdoğan, E. ve Yıldırım, L. (2013). An alternative natural dye, almond shell waste: effects of plasma and mordants on dyeing properties. Coloration Technology, 129(6), 431-437. DOI: doi.org/10.1111/cote.12047.
• İşmal, Ö. E. ve Yıldırım, L. (2019). Metal mordants and biomordants. In Shahid ul-Islam- Bhupendra Singh Butola (Ed.), The Impact and Prospects of Green Chemistry for Textile Technology (p.57-82), England: Elsevier, Woodhead Publishing.
• Ke, G., Mulla, M. S., Peng, F., and Chen, S. (2022). Dyeing properties of natural Gardenia on the lyocell fabric pretreated with tannic acid. Cellulose, 1-14. doi: 10.1007/s10570-022-04896-w.
• Lee, B. H. (2019). Improving the Color Fastness of the Madder Extract on Tencel Nonwoven. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 31(4), 241-248. DOI: 10.5764/TCF.2019.31.4.241.
• Naveed, T., Rehman, F., Sanbhal, N., Ali, B. A., Yueqi, Z., Farooq, O., and Wang, W. (2020). Novel Natural Dye Extraction Methods And Mordants For Textile Applications. Surface Review and Letters, 27(04), 1-9. doi: 10.1142/S0218625X1950135X.
• Naveed, T., Babar, A. A., Rashdi, S. Y., Rehman, F., Naeem, M. A., Wang, W., Abbas, M., & Ramzan, M. B. (2021). Dyeing and colorfastness properties of tencel fabric treated with natural dye extracted from orange peel. Surface Review and Letters, 28(03), doi: 10.1142/S0218625X20500559.
• Ojha, D., Deodiya, S., and Purwar, R. (2019). Printing of Lyocell fabric with Rubia Cordifolia and Acacia catechu using Guar gum and Chitosan as Thickening Agent. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge (IJTK), 18(3), 615-620.
• Rossi, T., Silva, P. M. S., De Moura, L. F., Araújo, M. C., Brito, J. O., and Freeman, H. S. (2017). Waste from eucalyptus wood steaming as a natural dye source for textile fibers. Journal of cleaner production, 143, 303-310. DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.12.109.
• Rehman, F., Naveed, T., Ullah, W., Pour, R. A., and Wei, W. (2016). Extraction and Dyeing Behavior of Pomegranate dye on Tencel Fabric. Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 6(4), 152-159.
• Rehman, F., Sanbhal, N., Naveed, T., Farooq, A., Wang, Y., and Wei, W. (2018). Antibacterial performance of Tencel fabric dyed with pomegranate peel extracted via ultrasonic method. Cellulose, 25(7), 4251-4260. DOI: 10.1007/s10570-018-1864-6.
• Rashdi, S. Y., Naveed, T., Sanbhal, N., Almani, S., Lin, P., and Wei, W. (2020). Lyocell fabric dyed with natural dye extracted from marigold flower using metallic salts. Autex Research Journal, 20(3), 352-358. DOI: 10.2478/aut-2019-0033.
• Singhee, D. (2020). Review on Natural Dyes for Textiles from Wastes. In Samanta, A. K., Awwad, N. S. and Algarni, H. M. (Eds.), Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments. Chapter 4. (p. 99-122), London, United Kingdom: IntechOpen.
• Sun, G. (2017). Thermodynamics, kinetics, and multifunctional finishing of textile materials with colorants extracted from natural renewable sources. ACS Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering, 5(9), 7451-7466. DOI: 10.1021/acssuschemeng.7b01486.
• Shin, Y. S., Son, K. H., and Yoo, D. I. (2008). Tencel dyeing by natural indigo prepared from dyer’s knotweed. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(12), 1963-1970. DOI: 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.12.1963.