Geri Dönüşüm/İleri Dönüşüm/Tekrar Kullanım Kapsamında İkinci El Giysiler ve Sürdürülebilirlik

Yıl 2017, Cilt: 10 Sayı: 20, 484 - 503, 31.12.2017

Leyla Yıldırım

https://doi.org/10.21602/sduarte.305698

Cited By: 7

Öz

Bilimsel gelişmeler ve bunların
teknoloji aracılığıyla yaşantımıza getirdiği yenilikler, günlük yaşamdaki
alışkanlıkları değiştirdiği gibi yaşam biçimi ve felsefesinin de değişimine
neden olmaktadır. 1960’lı yıllardan itibaren adından sıkça söz ettirmeye başlayan
ekolojik sorunlar ve çevre felaketleri, bilginin daha da hızlı yayıldığı
küreselleşen dünyada yeni kuşakları üretmede ve tüketmede ortak kararlar almaya
zorlamaktadır.

Özellikle tekstil ve moda sektörü
üretimi sırasında ve tüketimi sonrasında oluşturduğu atıklar açısından dikkat
çekmekte, konuyla ilgili paydaşlar ise gelecekteki olası durumlar karşısında
önlem almaya çalışmaktadırlar. Bu paydaşlardan biri olan tasarımcılar, ürünün
üretim aşamasından, tüketim sonrası atık konumuna kadar geçen sürede aldıkları
kararlarla sürece katkıda bulunmaktadırlar. Bazı tasarımcılar ise tüketim
sonrası herhangi bir nedenle atık konumuna düşmüş giysileri yeniden
tasarlayarak bir değer yaratmakta ve bu giysilerin yaşam ömrünü
uzatmaktadırlar.

Bu çalışmada atık
konumuna dönüşen ikici el giysileri geri kazanmak için tasarımcıların
kullandıkları yöntemlere, yürüttükleri projelere ve bu süreçte gelişen
kavramlara değinilecektir.

Anahtar sözcükler: İkinci el giysiler, kavramlar, tekrar
tasarım, ileri dönüşüm, tekstil teknikleri

Anahtar Kelimeler

İkinci el giysiler, kavramlar, tekrar tasarım, ileri dönüşüm

Kaynakça

• KAYNAKLAR 1. Aakko M., Niinimäki K., (2013). “Experimenting with Zero-Waste Fashion”, Ed. Kirsi Niinimäki, Sustainable Fashion:New approaches, Printed in Unigrafia Helsinki, Finland , 68-81 2. Ainamo A., (2014).“Rethinking Textile Fashion: New Materiality, Smart Products, and Upcycling”, Swedish Industrial Design Foundation/Linköping University Electronic Press, Linköping University, Sweden, 53-60, SVID, 3. Alison G., (1998). “Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-assembled Clothes”, Fashion Theory, 2:1, 25-49 4. Alpat F. E., (2014). “Yavaş Moda Nedir?”, Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 4 (8), Antalya, 48-51 5. Annamma Joy, John F. Sherry, Jr, Alladi Venkatesh, Jeff Wang and Ricky Chan, (2012). Fast “Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands”, Fashion Theory, Volume 16, Issue 3, 273–296 6. Berger N., (2011). “Different Angles on Secondhand Clothing”, http://fashionplay.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Different-Angles-on-Secondhand-Clothing.pdf, 6-11, Erişim tarihi: 07.11.2016 7. Bowser A. E., Haimson O. L., Melcer E. F., Churchill E. F., (2015).“On Vintage Values: The Experience of Secondhand Fashion Reacquisition”, The Value of Things CHI Crossings, Seoul, Korea, 897-906 8. Chavan RB, (2014).“Environmental Sustainability through Textile Recycling”, J Textile Sci Eng , 2, 2-5 9. Cumming D., (2015). “Earthlink: Upcycling Corporate to Children’s apparel, Engaging Strategies for Designed Reuse, Refashioning textile waste, Unmaking Waste Conference Proceedings”, 22 – 24 May 2015, Adelaide, South Australia, 628-636, 10. Earley R. http://tedresearch.net/people/staff/rebecca-early/, Erişim tarihi: 01.03.2017 11. Earley R., Project Report, (2011). “Worn Again: Rethinking Recycled Textiles (2005-2009)”,http://www.tedresearch.net/media/files/PROJECT_REPORT_2011.pdf, Erişim tarihi: 09.09.2016 12. Earley R., (2007).‘The New Designers: Working Towards our Eco Fashion Future’ http://www.tedresearch.net/media/files/The_New_Designers_2007.pdf 13. Farrant L., Olsen S.I. Wangel A., (2010). “Environmental benefits from reusing clothes” Int J Life Cycle Assess, 15.726–736 14. Finn A., (2015). Sustainable fashion design: Minimization as a future design strategy for people, profit and planet, Refashioning textile waste, Unmaking Waste 2015 Conference Proceedings, 22 – 24 May 2015, Adelaide, South Australia, 637-644 15. Fletcher K. T., (1998). “Design, the Environment and Textiles: Developing Strategies for Environmental Impact Reduction”, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 89:3, 72-80 16. http://giysitakasi.blogspot.com.tr 17. Goldsworthy K., (2009). “Resurfaced : Using Laser Technology To Create Innovative, Surface Finishes For Recyclable, Synthetic Textiles”, 11-14, file:///C:/Users/ASUS/Downloads/RESURFACED_Using_Laser_Technology_To_Create_Innova.pdf, http://www.cuttingedgesymposium.com 18. Gwilt A., (2012). Integrating sustainable strategies in the fashion design process: A conceptual model of the fashion designer in haute couture. A thesis submitted in fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, School of Architecture + Design College of Design and Social Context RMIT University January 2012 19. Han, S.L.C., Chan P. Y. L., Venkatraman P., Apeagyei, P., Cassidy T., Tyler D. J. (2017). “Standard vs. Upcycled Fashion Design and Production”, Fashion Practice, 9:1, 69-94 20. Irick E., (2006). Examination of The Design Process of Repurposed Apparel And Accessories: An Application Of Diffusion Of Innovations Theory, Master of Science in Apparel and Textiles Kansas State University Manhattan, KS https://shareok.org/bitstream/handle/11244/14901/Irick_okstate_0664D_13175.pdf?sequence=1, 2013, p.19 21. İşmal Ö. E., Yıldırım L., (2013).“Tekstil Tasarımında Çevre Dostu Yaklaşımlar”, Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, Yıl 5, Sayı 8, 9-13 22. Kipöz Ş., Atalay D., (2015). “Etik Modanın Temsiliyeti Bağlamında Vaatleri ve Çelişkileri: ‘Etik Moda’ Ne Kadar Etik Sunuluyor?”, Yedi, Sanat, Tasarım ve Bilim Dergisi, 14: 101-115 23. Kipöz Ş., Gönen B. (2015). “Kavramsal Çerçeve”, Sürdürülebilir Moda, ed. Kipöz Ş.,Yeni İnsan Yayınevi, Ekoloji Serisi 31, İstanbul, 86-97 24. Lau Yuk-lan, (2015). Proceedings of Practical Social and Industrial Research (PSIR) Symposium, Volume 4 Supplement 2,1-2 https://springerplus.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/2193-1801-4-S2-O9, 02.10.2016 25. Little C. (2009). Timely/Timeless: The New Bespoke, Master Design At Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand, 26. Menkes, S., (1993).“Runways; The Shock of the Old”, Published: March 21, 1993, The New York Times 27. Milburn J., (2015). “Making a Material Difference”, Journal of the HEIA, Vol. 22, No. 1, 3-9 28. http://www.milliyet.com.tr/para-odemeden-gardirobunuzu-yenileyin-pembenar-detay-markalardanhaberler-1689776/, Erişim tarihi: 04.01.2017 29. Niinimäki, K.,(2013). “Tenents of Sustainable Fashion”, (ed.) Kirsi Niinimäki, Sustainable Fashion: New approaches, Aalto University publication series Art + Design + Architecture 9/2013, Printed in Unigrafia Helsinki, Finland , 12-31 30. Niinimäki, K., Lotta Hassi, (2011), “Emerging Design Strategies in Sustainable Production and Consumption of Textile and Clothing”, Journal of Cleaner Production, 19 1876-1883 31. Packard V. (1960). “Planned Obsolescence of Desirability”, The Waste Makers, Longmans,,http://soilandhealth.org/wpcontent/uploads/0303critic/030320wastemakers/wastemakers.pdf, 10.03.2017 32. Palmer A. and Clark H.,Ed. (2005), Old clothes, New looks, Second Hand Fashion, Berg Publishing, Oxford, New York, https://www.amazon.com/Old-Clothes-New-Looks-Second-Hand/dp/1859738575, 33. Pears K. E., (2006). Fashion Re-consumption; developing a sustainable fashion consumption practice influenced by sustainability and consumption theory, A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for a degree of Master of Arts. School of Architecture and Design Design and Social Context Portfolio RMIT University 34. Secondhand Clothing, 232-237, http://69.63.136.213/staticfiles/Encyclopedia/Secondhand-Clothing-Global-Fashion.pdf, Erişim tarihi: 09.10.2016 35. Sherburne A., (2009). “Achieving sustainable textiles: a designer’s perspective”, Edited by R. S. Blackburn, Sustainable Textiles Life Cycle and Environmental Impact, Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 98, Oxford, Cambridge, New Delhi, 3-32 36. http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/material/recycled-fabrics/, Erişim tarihi: 07.08.2016 37. Sustainable Clothing Roadmap, Progress Report, (2011). Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, www.defra.gov.uk/publications/files/pb13461-clothing-actionplan-110518.pdf 38. Türkmen, N . (2014). 1Sürdürülebilir Bir Tekstil Endüstrisi İçin Yavaşlık ve Alternatif Üretim Modelleri”. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 4 (8),59-61 39. http://www.tedresearch.net/research/detail/well-fashioned-eco-style-uk/, 03.12.2016 40. University of Cambridge, (2006). http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/consumerprod/products/clothing.htm, Erişim tarihi: 01.12.2016 41. http://www.upcyclingtextiles.net/, Erişim tarihi: 05.09.2016 42. http://inhabitat.com/project-blue-recycled-denim-couture-auction-on-e-bay/, Erişim tarihi: 11.11.2016 43. Vermeer D., http://daniellelvermeer.com/blog/upcycled-fashion-companies, Erişim tarihi:01.12.2016 44. Whitty J. 82015).Space Between: A model of social innovation for fashion, Refashioning textile waste, Unmaking Waste 2015 Conference Proceedings, 22 – 24 May 2015, Adelaide, South Australia, 618-627, 45. Weinstein J., (2014). Reframe, Reuse, and Re-Style:(De)Constructing the Sustainable Second-Hand Consumer, Degree of Bachelor of Arts with Departmental Honors in Sociology, Wesleyan Univers 46. www.ecochicdesignaward.com 47. http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/j/junky-styling/ Erşim tarihi: 04.01.2017 48. Young, C., Jirousek, C., & Ashdown, S., (2004). Undesigned: A study in sustainable design of apparel using postconsumer recycled clothing. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22(1/2), 61-68.