Alkali Ön-İşlemin Farklı Kumaş Örgüsündeki Lyocell Dokuma Kumaşların Görünüm ve Yapısal Özelliklerine Etkisi

Yıl 2019, Cilt: 26 Sayı: 113, 52 - 62, 26.03.2019

Arzu Atıcı , Gaye Kaya

Öz

Selülozik liflerin alkali işlemi, tekstil prosesleri içerisinde boyama kabiliyetini arttırması ve yüzey özelliklerini iyileştirmesi bakımından önemli bir işlemdir. Alkali tipi ve konsantrasyonu, materyal formu, proses sıcaklığı ve kullanılan yardımcı kimyasallara bağlı olarak, Lyocell liflerinin mekanik ve yapısal özellikleri, yüzey görünümleri, renk özellikleri ve fibrilasyon eğilimleri değişmektedir. Bu çalışmada, farklı konsantrasyonlardaki alkali ön-işlemin, farklı kumaş örgüsündeki %100 Lyocell kumaşların fibrilasyon, aşınma ve boncuklanma gibi görünüm ve sıklık, kalınlık ve gramaj gibi yapısal özelliklerine etkileri incelenmiştir. Bu çalışmada gerçekleştirilen alkali ön-işlem, Lyocell liflerinin fibrilasyon eğilimini azaltmış, buna bağlı olarak da aşınma dayanımı artmış ve boncuklanma eğilimi azalmıştır. Alkali ön-işlem, Lyocell lif çapındaki artışa bağlı olarak kumaşlardaki ipliklerin hacmini arttırmış ve bükümünü açarak kumaşta büzülmeye neden olmuştur. Alkali konsantrasyonu arttıkça, her üç kumaş örgüsünde de çözgü ve atkı yönündeki sıklık değerleri, kumaş kalınlık ve gramajları artmıştır. 

Anahtar Kelimeler

Lyocell dokuma kumaş, alkali ön-işlem, fibrilasyon, aşınma dayanımı, boncuklanma

Effects of Alkali Pre-Treatment on the Appearance and Structural Properties of Lyocell Woven Fabrics with Different Weave Types

Öz

Alkali process of cellulosic fibres is an important process in terms of improving dyeability and surface properties of fibres. Mechanical and structural properties, appearances, colours and fibrillation tendencies of Lyocell fibres change depending on types and concentration of  alkali,  material form, process temperature and  auxiliary chemicals used. In this study, effects of alkali pre-treatment at different concentrations on appearance as fibrillation, abrasion and pilling resistance and on structural properties as density, thickness and weight of 100% Lyocell fabrics in different weave types (plain, twill, ribs) are investigated. Alkali pre-treatment decreased the tendency of fibrillation of Lyocell fibres, resulting in increased abrasion resistance and reduced pilling tendencies. Alkali pre-treatment increased the volume of yarns in the fabric due to increase in the Lyocell fibre diameter and caused to open  twist spirals and shrinkage in the fabric. Warp and weft densities, fabric thickness and weight of Lyocell fabrics in all weave types increased by the increase in alkali concentrations. 

Anahtar Kelimeler

Lyocell woven fabric, alkali pre-treatment, fibrillation, abrasion resistance, pilling

Kaynakça

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