FERMENTING KASIM WITH DIVERSE SUGARS – A NOVEL APPROACH TO AN ANCIENT NATURAL DYE

Yıl 2025, Cilt: 32 Sayı: 137, 35 - 43, 30.03.2025

Aakanksha Agrawal

https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1557325

Öz

Kasim, an ancient natural black dye, has been an integral part of traditional textile crafts of India like Kalamkari, Bagh, Ajrakh, etc. Despite being an important natural dye since the 16th century, there is a lack of scientific evaluation of Kasim in literature. In the present study, Kasim fermentation was optimized using different sugar sources with iron scrap in the ratio of 1:2. In addition to the traditionally used jaggery, a novel approach of fermenting Kasim with sugarcane juice was studied. The dyeing efficiency of each variation was evaluated by dyeing 100% cotton fabric pre-mordanted using myrobalan nut powder. The pH levels of fermenting liquor were observed at regular intervals and found to vary between 3.5 to 6.5 during fermentation. FT-IR analysis of the dyed samples was conducted for preliminary characterization of the dye. The spectra indicated the presence of functional groups such as, ether, carbonyl, and alcohol. The color strength (K/S) increased as fermentation progressed, with the highest values observed in samples dyed with sugarcane juice liquors fermented for 7 days. The CIE L*a*b* values were very low, indicating a purer hue of black. The samples developed brown-black to charcoal-black hues. The colorfastness properties did not show any significant variation with the varying sugar sources and were observed to be good to excellent. The novel approach of fermenting Kasim using sugarcane juice produced the best dyeing results in much lesser time.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Fermented dye, Kasim, Myrobalan, Natural black dye

Etik Beyan

I hereby declare that this research paper titled "Fermenting Kasim with Diverse Sugars - A Novel Approach to an Ancient Natural Dye" is my original work and has not been submitted for publication or published elsewhere. The research was conducted ethically and in accordance with the accepted standards of academic integrity. All sources of information and ideas have been properly cited. No conflicts of interest exist that could have influenced the research outcomes. I confirm that the data presented is accurate, and no fabrication, falsification, or inappropriate manipulation of data has occurred. I accept full responsibility for the content of this manuscript and agree to abide by the journal's policies on ethical conduct.

Destekleyen Kurum

University of Delhi, New Delhi, India

KASİM'İN ÇEŞİTLİ ŞEKERLERLE FERMENTE EDİLMESİ - ESKİ BİR DOĞAL BOYAYA YENİ BİR YAKLAŞIM

Öz

Antik bir siyah doğal boya olan Kasim, Hindistan'ın Kalamkari, Bagh, Ajrakh gibi bölgelerindeki geleneksel tekstil zanaatlarının ayrılmaz bir parçası olmuştur. 16. yüzyıldan beri önemli bir doğal boya olmasına karşın, Kasim hakkında literatürde bilimsel bir değerlendirme eksikliği bulunmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, Kasim, demir hurdası ile 1:2 oranında farklı şeker kaynakları kullanılarak fermente edilmiştir. Geleneksel olarak kullanılan ve şeker kamışından elde edilmiş koyu kahverengi rafine edilmemiş bir şeker olan jaggery'nin yanı sıra, Kasim'in şeker kamışı suyu kullanılarak fermente edilmesi gibi yenilikçi bir yaklaşım da incelenmiştir. Her varyasyonun boyama verimliliği, mirobalan fındığı tozu kullanılarak önceden mordanlanmış %100 pamuk kumaşların boyanmasıyla değerlendirilmiştir. Boyanın karakterize edilmesi için fermentasyon sıvısının pH’ı belirlenmiş ve boyanmış örneklerin FT-IR analizi gerçekleştirilmiştir. Fermantasyon sırasında 3,5 ila 6,5 arasında asidik bir pH gözlemlenmiştir. FT-IR analizi, eter, karboksilik ve alkol gibi fonksiyonel grupların varlığını göstermiştir. Renk verimi (K/S), fermantasyon ilerledikçe artmış ve en yüksek değerler, 7 gün boyunca fermente edilen şeker kamışı suyu sıvılarıyla boyanan örneklerde gözlemlenmiştir. CIE L*a*b* değerleri çok düşük olup, daha saf bir siyah tonu göstermektedir. Örnekler kahverengi-siyah ile kömür-siyah tonları geliştirmiştir. En derin siyah ton, 7 gün boyunca fermente edilen şeker kamışı suyu ile elde edilmiştir. Renk haslığı değerleri farklı şeker kaynaklarıyla önemli bir değişiklik göstermemiş ve iyi ile mükemmel arasında olduğu gözlemlenmiştir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

fermente boya, kasım, mirobalan, doğal siyah boya

Kaynakça

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