Atlar, Binicilik ve Moda

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 2 Sayı: 2, 47 - 74, 31.07.2023

Nihan Akdemir

Öz

Asaletin
simgesi atlar kimi zaman mitolojinin içinde kanatlanmış kimi zaman savaş meydanlarında
şövalyelerin yaveri olmuş kimi zaman aristo krat burjuva estetiğin e eşlik etmiş kimi zamansa spor un esas
kahramanı olarak tarih boyunca insanla ilişki kurmuşlardır Güç ve algı atların özünü ve tarzını
çerçeveleyen sıfatlardan bazıları olurken atların sahip olduğu sembolizm onları özgürlü k ve özgünlü k gibi
kavramları somutlaştıran temsiller olarak moda sahnesin in iç ine de almıştır. Bu araştırma makalesinde
atlar binicilik ve moda arasındaki ilişki, tarihsel süreçle birlikte incelenerek ortaya konulmaya çalışılmıştır.
Araştı r mada, insanlar ve atlar arasındaki bağ, moda dünyasının gözünden ele alınarak incelenmiş,
aksesuarlardan giysilere atların ruhunun ve atlarla ilişkili öğelerin tasarıma yansımaları örnekler üzerinden
açıklanmıştır. Sonuç olarak, geçmişten günümüze ilham ka ynağı olan atların moda nın gelecek sahneler in de
de yerini alacağı fikrine ulaşılmıştır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

atlar, binicilik, binicilik kostümleri, moda

Horses, Equestrian Sport and Fashion

Öz

The
symbol of nobility is horses; sometimes they took wings in mythology, sometimes they became the
squires of the knights on the battlefields, sometimes accompanied the aristocratic and bourgeois aesthetics,
and sometimes as the main hero of sports, they had a relationship with people throughout history. While
power and perception are some of the adjectives that frame the essence and style of horses, the symbolism
of horses has taken them into the fashion scene as representations embodying concepts such as freedom
and originality. In this research article, the relationship between horses equestrian sport and fashion has
been tried to be revealed by examining the historical process. In the research, the bond between people and
horses was examined from the p erspective of the fashion world, and the reflections of the spirit of horses
and the elements related to horses, from accessories to clothes, were explained through examples. As a
result, it was concluded that horses, which have been a source of inspiratio n from the past to the present,
will also take their place in the future scenes of fashion.

Anahtar Kelimeler

horses, equestrian sport, equestrian costumes, fashion

Kaynakça

• Akcan, A. (2020). Türk Mitolojisinde ‘At’ Kültü. Sanat Karnavalı https://www.sanatkarnavali.com/turk-mitolojisinde-at-kultu/
• Aker, J. C. (2010). Information from markets near and far: Mobile phones and agricultural markets in Niger. American Economic Journal: Applied Economics, 2(3), 46-59. https://doi.org/10.1257/app.2.3.46
• Akıncı, K. (2023). Kelt Kültürü ve Arkeolojisi -Kelt kültürü (Celtic Culture and Archaeology -Celtic culture). Researchgate https://www.researchgate.net/publication/369727734_Kelt_Kulturu_ve_Arkeolojisi_-Kelt_kulturu_Celtic_Culture_and_Archaeology_-Celtic_culture
• Arsız Sanat (2017, Ocak 26). Donmuş Bir Tarihi Miras: Pazırlık Halısı. https://arsizsanat.com/donmus-bir-tarihi-miras-pazirik-halisi/
• BBC, (2015). Europe's fourth ancestral 'tribe' uncovered. BBC https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-34832781
• Beck, U.; Wagner, M.; Li, X.; Durkin-Meisterernst, D.; Tarasov, P. E. (2014). "The invention of trousers and its likely affiliation with horseback riding and mobility: A case study of late 2nd millennium BC finds from Turfan in eastern Central Asia". Quaternary International. 224-235. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.quaint.2014.04.056
• Bober, P. F. (1951). Cernunnos: Origin and Transformation of a Celtic Divinity. American Journal of Archaeology, 55(1), 13–51. https://doi.org/10.2307/501179
• Bragmybag (2016, 22 Mayıs). Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016 Spirit Of Travel Campaign https://www.bragmybag.com/louis-vuitton-pre-fall-2016-spirit-of-travel-campaign/
• Britannica, T. Editors of Encyclopaedia (2022, October 31). Four horsemen of the apocalypse. Encyclopedia Britannica. Britannica https://www.britannica.com/topic/four-horsemen-of-the-Apocalypse
• Buffalo, G. ve Firedancer, S. (2007). Şamanların Erk Hayvanları, (çev. Bülent Uluçer). İstanbul: Okyanus Yayıncılık.
• Cdn (2015). Chole Spring Summer https://cdn.luxuo.com/2015/01/Chloe-Spring-Summer-2015-campaign.jpg
• Chanel (2021). The Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture Show— CHANEL Shows (Video). Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GzwIzGwk_k
• Chiorando M (2023, Mart 10). Stella McCartney put live horses on the runway at French fashion show – find out why https://www.veganfoodandliving.com/news/stella-mccartney-live-horses-runway/
• Collection Vam (2005, Eylül 30). Collections, Riding Habit Jacket, (1885-1886) https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O117401/riding-habit-jacket-john-redfern/
• Equestrian Stylist (2013). Chanel equestrian. https://www.equestrianstylist.com/chanel-equestrian-spring-2013/
• Esin, E. (2004). Orta Asya’dan Osmanlı’ya Türk Sanatında İkonografik Motifler, İstanbul: Kabalcı Yayınevi.
• Ertuğrul, E. (2023). Dünyanın İlk At Binicileri Karadeniz Yakınlarında Bulundu. Arkeofili https://arkeofili.com/dunyanin-ilk-at-binicileri-karadeniz-yakinlarinda-bulundu/
• Gökçimen, A. (2005). Türkmen Atasözlerinde At. A. Ü. Türkiyat Araştırmaları Enstitüsü Dergisi Prof. Dr. M. Fahrettin Kırzıoğlu Özel Sayısı, Sayı 28 Erzurum (199-212).
• Gucci (2018). A Gucci Hallucination, the Spring Summer 2018 https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/spring-summer-2018-ignasi-monreal
• Gucci (2020, Ocak 10). Gucci Of Course a Horse: The Spring Summer 2020 Campaign (Video). Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jkkaIO553U
• Gucci (2023). Horsebit 1955, www.gucci.com
• Gürçay, S (2019). Mitolojilerde Uçan At Motifi Üzerine Karşılaştırmalı Bir Çalışma. Aydın Türklük Bilgisi Dergisi Yıl 5 Sayı 8 Bahar- 2019 (37-54).
• Icon icon (2020, Haziran 12). The Logo Hermès: The Horse-drawn Carriage https://www.icon-icon.com/en/the-logo-hermes-the-horse-drawn-carriage/
• Jane Austen’s World (2011, Aralık 16). Women’s Riding Outfits in the Early 18th Century. https://janeaustensworld.com/2011/12/16/womens-riding-outfits-in-the-early-18th-century/
• Karakurt, D. (2011). Türk Söylence Sözlüğü. Doczz http://doczz.biz.tr/ doc/170164/t%C3%BCrk-s%C3%B6ylence-s%C3%B6zl%C3%BC%C4%9F%C3%BC-deniz-karakurt
• Koçkar, M.T. (2023). Cavalcata – At Festivalleri (İtalya). At ve İnsan https://www.atveinsan.com/cavalcata-at-festivalleri-italya-m419817.html Leitch, L. (2023). Show Ponies: How Stella McCartney and Her Horse Whisperer Delivered a Wow Moment to Remember. Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/show-ponies-how-stella-mccartney-and-her-horse-whisperer-delivered-a-wow-moment-to-remember
• Mackelden, A (2018, Mayıs 26). Horses Walked the Runway Alongside Models at Dior's Cruise 2019 Show in Paris. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a20923342/dior-cruise-2019-show-paris-horses-walk-runway/
• Mackenzie, M. (2018). Equestrian Heritage in Fashion - where did it all begin? https://www.mackenzieandgeorge.com/blogs/news/equestrian-heritage-in-fashion
• MacNeill, T. K. (2022). Giddy up! How high-end horse girls cantered into fashion.. Dazeddigital https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/55764/1/giddy-up-horse-girls-cantered-fashion-bella-hadid-chanel-hermes-kendall-jenner
• Madesen, C (2021, 5 Ocak). 5 Things To Know About Christian Dior’s Mystical SS21 Haute Couture Show. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/dior-couture-spring-summer-2021
• Madsen, A. C. (2021). 5 Things To Know About Christian Dior’s Mystical SS21 Haute Couture Show. Vogue https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/dior-couture-spring-summer-2021
• Newbold, A. (2021, Şubat 8). Celine’s Renaissance Show Is Our Kind Of Period Drama https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/celine-menswear-aw21
• Olgunlu, A. C. (2010). Ana Tanrıça’dan Mevlana’ya, İstanbul. Karakutu Yayınları.
• O’Malley K (2022, Ocak 25). Chanel Bucks The Trend With A Horse And A Royal On Haute Couture Runway. https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/a38883845/chanel-horse-haute-couture-runway/
• Öztürk, H. (2023). Atlarda Vücut Dili, Açık Ders https://acikders.ankara.edu.tr/pluginfile.php/194497/mod_resource/content/0/11.-12.%20Hafta_Atlarda%20v%C3%BCcur%20dili.pdf
• Öztürk, Ö. (2018). Rhiannon (Kelt Mitolojisi). Ozhanozturk https://ozhanozturk.com/2018/02/23/rhiannon- kelt-mitolojisi/
• Scott, Naomi (2005). Special Needs, Special Horses – A Guide To The Benefits of Therapeutic Riding. University of North Texas Pres, Denton, Texas.
• Seyidoğlu, B. (1996). “Mitolojik Dönemde At”, Umay Günay Armağanı (ed. Özkul Çobanoğlu; Metin Özaslan), Ankara: Feryal Matbaacılık,
• Smith, A.M.; Druesedow, J.R. ve Rider, T. (1984). Man and the Horse, New York: Simon and Schuster Pub. Style My Ride (2015, Ağustos 31). History of Equestrian Fashion: 1920s to 1940s https://www.stylemyride.net/singlepost/2015/08/31/history-of-equestrian-fashion-1920s-to-1940s
• The Dream Stress (2011, Eylül 14). Madge Bellamy riding https://thedreamstress.com/2011/09/i-need-a-pair-of-jodhpurs/madge-bellamy-riding/
• Wanthaveit (2016, Mayıs 27). ‘Coco’ Chanel and revolution of equestrian fashion https://wanthaveit.com/coco-chanel-and-revolution-of-equestrian-fashion/
• Wilkinson, K. (2011). Semboller ve İşaretler (2. baskı). Alfa Yayınları.
• Wilkinson, P. ve Philip, N. (2010). Mitoloji. İnkilap Kitabevi.