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İplik Tipi ve Büküm Yönünün Viskon Interlok Kumaşlarin Bazi Özelliklerine Etkisi

Yıl 2020, , 1519 - 1532, 31.12.2020
https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556

Öz

Bu çalışmada, iplik eğirme sisteminin yanı sıra iplik büküm yönünün kumaşların bazı konfor ve may dönmesi özellikleri üzerindeki etkileri araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla, % 100 viskon elyafından üretilmiş interlok örme kumaşlar; ring, kompakt ve siro olmak üzere üç farklı eğirme sisteminde ve S ile Z olmak üzere iki farklı büküm yönünde üretilmişlerdir. Elde edilen sonuçlar, kompakt iplikten yapılan kumaşların su buharı ve hava geçirgenlik değerlerinin yüksek olduğunu, fakat kılcal ıslanma değerlerinin ise ring iplik sistemi ile üretilenlere kıyasla daha düşük olduğunu göstermiştir. Ayrıca, S büküm yönüne sahip kompak iplikten üretilmiş kumaşların hava ve su buharı geçirgenlik değerlerinin Z yönünde üretilmiş olanlara nazaran ciddi bir düşüş sergiledikleri görülmüştür. Genel olarak, iplik büküm yönüne bakılmaksızın, siro iplikten üretilmiş kumaşların geçirgenlik özelliklerinin ring iplik ile üretilenlere göre daha yüksek olduğu gözlenmiştir. Diğer taraftan, ring iplikten üretilmiş kumaşlar, siro ve kompakt ipliklerden yapılanlara göre nispeten en yüksek kılcal ıslanma ve may dönmesi sergilemişlerdir. Ayrıca, Z bükümlü iplikten üretilen numuneler daha yüksek hava ve su buharı geçirgenlik değerlerine sahipken, dikey kılcal ıslanma değerleri ve may dönmesi yüzdeleri S bükülmüş olanlardan daha düşüktür. Özetle, eğirme sisteminin ipliklerin yapısal parametreleri üzerinde derin bir etkiye sahip olduğu sonucuna varılmıştır.

Kaynakça

  • AATCC 179 (2019) Test Method for Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering, American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists, NC, USA.
  • ASTM E96-00 (2000). Standard test methods for water vapor transmission of materials, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D1422-99 (2006). Standard Test method for twist in single spun yarns by the untwist-retwist method, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA
  • ASTM D3776 (2017). Standard test methods for mass per unit area (weight) of fabric, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D6476-12 (2017). Standard test method for determining dynamic air permeability of inflatable restraint fabrics, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D737-18 (2018). Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • Altas S., Kadoğlu H. (2012). Comparison of conventional ring, mechanical compact and pneumatic compact yarn spinning systems. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 7(1), 87-100.
  • Au K. F. (2011). Advances in knitting technology Edited by K.F.Au Chapter 9: Quality control in the knitting process and common knitting faults Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, pp227
  • Buharali G, Omeroglu S. (2019) Comparative study on carded cotton yarn properties produced by the conventional ring and new modified ring spinning system. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2(134), 45-51.
  • Beceren Y., Nergis B.U. (2008) Comparison of the effects of cotton yarns produced by new, modified and conventional spinning systems on yarn and knitted fabric performance Textile Research Journal, 78(4), 297-303.
  • Çeken, F., Göktepe, F. (2005). Comparison of the Properties of Knitted Fabrics Produced by Conventional and Compact Ring - Spun Yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 1(49), 47-50.
  • Chen Q.H., Au K.F., Yuen C.W.M., K.W. Yeung (2003). Effects of Yarn and Knitting Parameters on the Spirality of Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 73(5), 421-426.
  • Das, A., Kothari, V.K. and Sadachar, A. (2007). Comfort characteristics of fabrics made of compact yarns, Fibers Polymer, 8, 116-122.
  • Değirmenci, Z. and Topalbekiroğlu, M. (2010) Effects of weight, dyeing and the twist direction on the spirality of single jersey fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18(3), 81-85.
  • DIN 53924 (1997). Testing of textiles - Velocity of soaking water of textile fabrics (method by determining the rising height) Deutsches Institut fur Normung E.V.
  • Guo Y. and Tao X. (2018) Fiber packing density in the cross-section of low torque ring spun yarn Textile Research Journal, 88(2) 191–202.
  • Havlová M. and Špánková J. (2017) Porosity of knitted fabrics in the aspect of air permeability – Discussion of selected assumptions. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25(3), 86-91.
  • Ishtiaque S.M., Sharma I.C. and Sharma S. (1993). Structural mechanics of siro yarn microtomy Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 18, 116-119.
  • Kane C. D., Patil U. J. and Sudhakar P. (2007) Studies on the influence of knit structure and stitch length on ring and compact yarn single jersey fabric properties. Textile Research Journal, 77(8), 572–582.
  • Karaca, E., Kahraman, N., Omeroglu S., and Becerir. B. (2012) Effects of fiber cross sectional shape and weave pattern on thermal comfort properties of polyester woven fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 20, 3(92), 67-72.
  • Kaynak H.K. and Çelik H. İ. (2018) Thermophysiological comfort and performance properties of knitted fabrics produced from different spinning technologies. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 109(4), 536-542.
  • Khurshid, M.F., Nadeem, K., Asad, M., Chaudhry, M.A. and Amanullah, M.. (2013) Comparative analysis of cotton yarn properties spun on pneumatic compact spinning systems. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 21(5), 30-34.
  • Kireçci A., Kaynak H.K. and Ince M.E. (2011) Comparative study of the quality parameters of knitted fabrics produced from sirospun, single and two-ply yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 19(5); 82-869
  • Mukhopadhyay A., Ishtiaque S.M. and Uttam D. (2011) Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 102(8), 700-712.
  • Nyoni A. B. and Brook D. (2006) Wicking mechanisms in yarns—The key to fabric wicking performance. Journal of the Textile Institute, 97(2), 119-128.
  • Özdemir, H. (2017) Thermal comfort properties of clothing fabrics woven with polyester/cotton blend yarns, AUTEX Research Journal, 17(2) 135-141.
  • Özgüney A.T., Dönmez Kretzschmar S., Özçelik G., Özerdem A. (2008) The Comparison of Cotton Knitted Fabric Properties Made of Compact and Conventional Ring Yarns Before and After the Printing Process Textile Research Journal 78(2), 138-147
  • Primentas A. (2003) Spirality of weft knitted fabrics Part 1: descriptive approach to the effect. Indian Journal of Fiber&Textile Reseach, 28, 55-59.
  • Regar, M. L., Sinha S. K. and Chattopadhyay R. (2018a) Fibre distribution and packing in eli-twist, siro and ring spun TFO yarn. J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E, 99(2), 177–186.
  • Regar M. L., Sinha S. K. and Chattopadhyay R. (2018b) Comparative assessment of eli-twist and TFO yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 43, 393-401.
  • Salhotra K.R. (1990) Quality improvement of sirospun yarns through use of finer rovings Textile Research Journal, 60(11), 687-689.
  • Singh M. K. and Nigam A. Effect of various ring yarns on fabric comfort. Hindawi Publishing Corporation Journal of Industrial Engineering, Volume 2013, 1-7
  • Soltani P. and Johari M.S. (2012) A study on siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns. Part II: Yarn strength with relation to physical and structural properties of yarns. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 103(9), 921-930.
  • Tao, J., Dhingra, R. C., Chan, C. K. and Abbas M. S. (1997) Effects of yarn and fabric construction on spirality of cotton single jersey fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 67(1) 57-68.
  • TS 7123 (1989). Pamuk liflerinde uzunluk (aralık uzunluğu) ve düzgünsüzlük indeksi tayin, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS 244 EN ISO 2060, (1999). Tekstil-İplikler-Doğrusal yoğunluk (birim uzunluk başına kütle) tayini-Çile metodu, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS 391 EN ISO 9237, (1999) Tekstil -Kumaşlarda hava geçirgenliğinin tayini, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS EN ISO 2062 (2010). Tekstil - Paketlerden alınan iplikler - Tek ipliğin kopma kuvvetinin ve kopma anındaki uzamasının sabit hızlı uzama cihazı (CRE) kullanılarak tayini, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • Tyagi G.K. and Kumar R. (2009) Influence of spinning variables on migration parameters of compact and ring-spun yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 34, 333-337.
  • Tyagi G.K., Bhattacharyya S., Bhowmick M. and Narang R. (2010). Study of cotton ring- and compact-spun yarn fabrics Part II – Effects of spinning variables on comfort characteristics. IJFTR, 35(2) 128-133.
  • Veselá D. and Kus Z. (2016). Device for measurement of static and dynamic air permeability and deformation changes in textile materials. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 24(1), 120-126.
  • Wu H., Chen M., Wang W., Lai K. and Ma B. (2009) The structure of compact yarn. Textile Research Journal, 79(9), 810–814.
  • Yilmaz D., Göktepe F., Göktepe Ö. and Kremenakova D. (2007) Packing density of compact yarns. Textile Research Journal, 77(9), 661–667.
  • Yılmaz D. and Usal M. R. (2012) A study on siro-jet spinning system. Fibers and Polymers, 13(10), 1359-1367.
  • Zhigang X. and Xu W. (2013) A review of ring staple yarn spinning method development and its trend prediction Journal of Natural Fibers, 10(1), 62-81.
  • Zeidman M.I., Suh M. W. and Batra S. K. (1990) A new perspective on yarn unevenness: components and determinants of general unevenness. Textile Research Journal, 60(1) 1-6

EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS

Yıl 2020, , 1519 - 1532, 31.12.2020
https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556

Öz

In this study, it was intended to investigate the effects of yarn spinning systems as well as yarn twist direction on some comfort and spirality performance properties of the fabrics. For this aim, interlock knitted fabrics made of 100% viscose yarns were produced with different spinning systems namely, ring, compact and siro at two twist directions; S and Z. The results indicate that the fabrics made of compact yarn possessed high water vapor and high air permeability values, but lesser vertical wicking values than ring yarn fabrics. However, both of the permeability values of the compact yarn fabrics markedly reduced when yarn twist direction was S. Generally, irrespective of yarn twist direction, the siro yarn fabrics exhibited better permeability but lesser wickability values as compared to ring yarn fabrics. Ring yarn fabrics displayed relatively highest wickability values and spirality percentages as compared to made from siro and compact yarns. In addition, samples produced from Z-twist yarn had higher air permeability values as well as water vapor permeability values but their vertical wicking values and spirality percentages were lesser than that of S-twisted ones. To sum up, it can be inferred that the spinning system has a profound influence on structural parameters of spun yarns.

Kaynakça

  • AATCC 179 (2019) Test Method for Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering, American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists, NC, USA.
  • ASTM E96-00 (2000). Standard test methods for water vapor transmission of materials, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D1422-99 (2006). Standard Test method for twist in single spun yarns by the untwist-retwist method, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA
  • ASTM D3776 (2017). Standard test methods for mass per unit area (weight) of fabric, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D6476-12 (2017). Standard test method for determining dynamic air permeability of inflatable restraint fabrics, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • ASTM D737-18 (2018). Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA.
  • Altas S., Kadoğlu H. (2012). Comparison of conventional ring, mechanical compact and pneumatic compact yarn spinning systems. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 7(1), 87-100.
  • Au K. F. (2011). Advances in knitting technology Edited by K.F.Au Chapter 9: Quality control in the knitting process and common knitting faults Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, pp227
  • Buharali G, Omeroglu S. (2019) Comparative study on carded cotton yarn properties produced by the conventional ring and new modified ring spinning system. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2(134), 45-51.
  • Beceren Y., Nergis B.U. (2008) Comparison of the effects of cotton yarns produced by new, modified and conventional spinning systems on yarn and knitted fabric performance Textile Research Journal, 78(4), 297-303.
  • Çeken, F., Göktepe, F. (2005). Comparison of the Properties of Knitted Fabrics Produced by Conventional and Compact Ring - Spun Yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 1(49), 47-50.
  • Chen Q.H., Au K.F., Yuen C.W.M., K.W. Yeung (2003). Effects of Yarn and Knitting Parameters on the Spirality of Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 73(5), 421-426.
  • Das, A., Kothari, V.K. and Sadachar, A. (2007). Comfort characteristics of fabrics made of compact yarns, Fibers Polymer, 8, 116-122.
  • Değirmenci, Z. and Topalbekiroğlu, M. (2010) Effects of weight, dyeing and the twist direction on the spirality of single jersey fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18(3), 81-85.
  • DIN 53924 (1997). Testing of textiles - Velocity of soaking water of textile fabrics (method by determining the rising height) Deutsches Institut fur Normung E.V.
  • Guo Y. and Tao X. (2018) Fiber packing density in the cross-section of low torque ring spun yarn Textile Research Journal, 88(2) 191–202.
  • Havlová M. and Špánková J. (2017) Porosity of knitted fabrics in the aspect of air permeability – Discussion of selected assumptions. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25(3), 86-91.
  • Ishtiaque S.M., Sharma I.C. and Sharma S. (1993). Structural mechanics of siro yarn microtomy Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 18, 116-119.
  • Kane C. D., Patil U. J. and Sudhakar P. (2007) Studies on the influence of knit structure and stitch length on ring and compact yarn single jersey fabric properties. Textile Research Journal, 77(8), 572–582.
  • Karaca, E., Kahraman, N., Omeroglu S., and Becerir. B. (2012) Effects of fiber cross sectional shape and weave pattern on thermal comfort properties of polyester woven fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 20, 3(92), 67-72.
  • Kaynak H.K. and Çelik H. İ. (2018) Thermophysiological comfort and performance properties of knitted fabrics produced from different spinning technologies. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 109(4), 536-542.
  • Khurshid, M.F., Nadeem, K., Asad, M., Chaudhry, M.A. and Amanullah, M.. (2013) Comparative analysis of cotton yarn properties spun on pneumatic compact spinning systems. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 21(5), 30-34.
  • Kireçci A., Kaynak H.K. and Ince M.E. (2011) Comparative study of the quality parameters of knitted fabrics produced from sirospun, single and two-ply yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 19(5); 82-869
  • Mukhopadhyay A., Ishtiaque S.M. and Uttam D. (2011) Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 102(8), 700-712.
  • Nyoni A. B. and Brook D. (2006) Wicking mechanisms in yarns—The key to fabric wicking performance. Journal of the Textile Institute, 97(2), 119-128.
  • Özdemir, H. (2017) Thermal comfort properties of clothing fabrics woven with polyester/cotton blend yarns, AUTEX Research Journal, 17(2) 135-141.
  • Özgüney A.T., Dönmez Kretzschmar S., Özçelik G., Özerdem A. (2008) The Comparison of Cotton Knitted Fabric Properties Made of Compact and Conventional Ring Yarns Before and After the Printing Process Textile Research Journal 78(2), 138-147
  • Primentas A. (2003) Spirality of weft knitted fabrics Part 1: descriptive approach to the effect. Indian Journal of Fiber&Textile Reseach, 28, 55-59.
  • Regar, M. L., Sinha S. K. and Chattopadhyay R. (2018a) Fibre distribution and packing in eli-twist, siro and ring spun TFO yarn. J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E, 99(2), 177–186.
  • Regar M. L., Sinha S. K. and Chattopadhyay R. (2018b) Comparative assessment of eli-twist and TFO yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 43, 393-401.
  • Salhotra K.R. (1990) Quality improvement of sirospun yarns through use of finer rovings Textile Research Journal, 60(11), 687-689.
  • Singh M. K. and Nigam A. Effect of various ring yarns on fabric comfort. Hindawi Publishing Corporation Journal of Industrial Engineering, Volume 2013, 1-7
  • Soltani P. and Johari M.S. (2012) A study on siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns. Part II: Yarn strength with relation to physical and structural properties of yarns. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 103(9), 921-930.
  • Tao, J., Dhingra, R. C., Chan, C. K. and Abbas M. S. (1997) Effects of yarn and fabric construction on spirality of cotton single jersey fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 67(1) 57-68.
  • TS 7123 (1989). Pamuk liflerinde uzunluk (aralık uzunluğu) ve düzgünsüzlük indeksi tayin, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS 244 EN ISO 2060, (1999). Tekstil-İplikler-Doğrusal yoğunluk (birim uzunluk başına kütle) tayini-Çile metodu, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS 391 EN ISO 9237, (1999) Tekstil -Kumaşlarda hava geçirgenliğinin tayini, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • TS EN ISO 2062 (2010). Tekstil - Paketlerden alınan iplikler - Tek ipliğin kopma kuvvetinin ve kopma anındaki uzamasının sabit hızlı uzama cihazı (CRE) kullanılarak tayini, Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Ankara.
  • Tyagi G.K. and Kumar R. (2009) Influence of spinning variables on migration parameters of compact and ring-spun yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 34, 333-337.
  • Tyagi G.K., Bhattacharyya S., Bhowmick M. and Narang R. (2010). Study of cotton ring- and compact-spun yarn fabrics Part II – Effects of spinning variables on comfort characteristics. IJFTR, 35(2) 128-133.
  • Veselá D. and Kus Z. (2016). Device for measurement of static and dynamic air permeability and deformation changes in textile materials. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 24(1), 120-126.
  • Wu H., Chen M., Wang W., Lai K. and Ma B. (2009) The structure of compact yarn. Textile Research Journal, 79(9), 810–814.
  • Yilmaz D., Göktepe F., Göktepe Ö. and Kremenakova D. (2007) Packing density of compact yarns. Textile Research Journal, 77(9), 661–667.
  • Yılmaz D. and Usal M. R. (2012) A study on siro-jet spinning system. Fibers and Polymers, 13(10), 1359-1367.
  • Zhigang X. and Xu W. (2013) A review of ring staple yarn spinning method development and its trend prediction Journal of Natural Fibers, 10(1), 62-81.
  • Zeidman M.I., Suh M. W. and Batra S. K. (1990) A new perspective on yarn unevenness: components and determinants of general unevenness. Textile Research Journal, 60(1) 1-6
Toplam 46 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil İngilizce
Konular Giyilebilir Malzemeler
Bölüm Araştırma Makaleleri
Yazarlar

Sena Cimilli Duru 0000-0002-3663-8503

Yayımlanma Tarihi 31 Aralık 2020
Gönderilme Tarihi 7 Temmuz 2020
Kabul Tarihi 22 Ekim 2020
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2020

Kaynak Göster

APA Duru, S. C. (2020). EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS. Uludağ Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi, 25(3), 1519-1532. https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556
AMA Duru SC. EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS. UUJFE. Aralık 2020;25(3):1519-1532. doi:10.17482/uumfd.763556
Chicago Duru, Sena Cimilli. “EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS”. Uludağ Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi 25, sy. 3 (Aralık 2020): 1519-32. https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556.
EndNote Duru SC (01 Aralık 2020) EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS. Uludağ Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi 25 3 1519–1532.
IEEE S. C. Duru, “EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS”, UUJFE, c. 25, sy. 3, ss. 1519–1532, 2020, doi: 10.17482/uumfd.763556.
ISNAD Duru, Sena Cimilli. “EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS”. Uludağ Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi 25/3 (Aralık 2020), 1519-1532. https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556.
JAMA Duru SC. EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS. UUJFE. 2020;25:1519–1532.
MLA Duru, Sena Cimilli. “EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS”. Uludağ Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi, c. 25, sy. 3, 2020, ss. 1519-32, doi:10.17482/uumfd.763556.
Vancouver Duru SC. EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS. UUJFE. 2020;25(3):1519-32.

DUYURU:

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