İplik Tipi ve Büküm Yönünün Viskon Interlok Kumaşlarin Bazi Özelliklerine Etkisi

Yıl 2020, Cilt: 25 Sayı: 3, 1519 - 1532, 31.12.2020

Sena Cimilli Duru

https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.763556

Öz

Bu çalışmada, iplik eğirme sisteminin yanı sıra iplik büküm yönünün kumaşların bazı konfor ve may dönmesi özellikleri üzerindeki etkileri araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla, % 100 viskon elyafından üretilmiş interlok örme kumaşlar; ring, kompakt ve siro olmak üzere üç farklı eğirme sisteminde ve S ile Z olmak üzere iki farklı büküm yönünde üretilmişlerdir. Elde edilen sonuçlar, kompakt iplikten yapılan kumaşların su buharı ve hava geçirgenlik değerlerinin yüksek olduğunu, fakat kılcal ıslanma değerlerinin ise ring iplik sistemi ile üretilenlere kıyasla daha düşük olduğunu göstermiştir. Ayrıca, S büküm yönüne sahip kompak iplikten üretilmiş kumaşların hava ve su buharı geçirgenlik değerlerinin Z yönünde üretilmiş olanlara nazaran ciddi bir düşüş sergiledikleri görülmüştür. Genel olarak, iplik büküm yönüne bakılmaksızın, siro iplikten üretilmiş kumaşların geçirgenlik özelliklerinin ring iplik ile üretilenlere göre daha yüksek olduğu gözlenmiştir. Diğer taraftan, ring iplikten üretilmiş kumaşlar, siro ve kompakt ipliklerden yapılanlara göre nispeten en yüksek kılcal ıslanma ve may dönmesi sergilemişlerdir. Ayrıca, Z bükümlü iplikten üretilen numuneler daha yüksek hava ve su buharı geçirgenlik değerlerine sahipken, dikey kılcal ıslanma değerleri ve may dönmesi yüzdeleri S bükülmüş olanlardan daha düşüktür. Özetle, eğirme sisteminin ipliklerin yapısal parametreleri üzerinde derin bir etkiye sahip olduğu sonucuna varılmıştır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

viskon, interlok, konfor, paketleme faktörü, kompakt, siro, iplik

EFFECTS OF YARN SPINNING SYSTEMS AND TWIST DIRECTION ON SOME PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE INTERLOCK FABRICS

Öz

In this study, it was intended to investigate the effects of yarn spinning systems as well as yarn twist direction on some comfort and spirality performance properties of the fabrics. For this aim, interlock knitted fabrics made of 100% viscose yarns were produced with different spinning systems namely, ring, compact and siro at two twist directions; S and Z. The results indicate that the fabrics made of compact yarn possessed high water vapor and high air permeability values, but lesser vertical wicking values than ring yarn fabrics. However, both of the permeability values of the compact yarn fabrics markedly reduced when yarn twist direction was S. Generally, irrespective of yarn twist direction, the siro yarn fabrics exhibited better permeability but lesser wickability values as compared to ring yarn fabrics. Ring yarn fabrics displayed relatively highest wickability values and spirality percentages as compared to made from siro and compact yarns. In addition, samples produced from Z-twist yarn had higher air permeability values as well as water vapor permeability values but their vertical wicking values and spirality percentages were lesser than that of S-twisted ones. To sum up, it can be inferred that the spinning system has a profound influence on structural parameters of spun yarns.

Anahtar Kelimeler

viscose, interlock, comfort, packing density, compact, siro, yarn

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