A Labouring Sector in the Roman Textile Economy: Fulling

Yıl 2024, , 67 - 80, 30.09.2024

Rahim Kızgut

https://doi.org/10.31455/asya.1442018

Öz

Roman society has a cosmopolitan structure consisting of people with many different professions. Among these professions, there is also a branch of the profession, which can be described as “fulling” or “tucking” in Turkish, which involves both cleaning and improving the appearance of garments, especially those made of wool, as well as the industrial finishing touches of a newly produced garment before it is put on the market. As in every society, people in Rome also paid attention to keeping their clothes clean and well-groomed. The padding profession, which offered more than simple fabric cleaning at home, appealed mostly to the wealthy segment of Roman society. It is possible to establish similarities between the padding profession and today's dry cleaning in terms of the basic logic of the work. The filling masters engaged in this profession and their professional skills are remarkable. This is because these masters performed their professional practices, which included many stages, with great care. The materials used in filling, the functions of these materials and the architectural features of the filling workshops where the profession was carried out are other issues that should be carefully examined. It is possible to find detailed information about this profession, which has a considerable place in the Roman Textile Economy, thanks to archaeological researches and written sources, especially in the filling workshops in Pompei, Ostia, Rome, Herculaneum and Florence in Roman Italy. The main purpose of this study is to make an assessment of the place and importance of the filling profession in Roman society in the light of the available data.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Fulling, Dinking, Roman Textile Economy, Garment, Cleaning, Fuller, Fullonicae

Roma Tekstil Ekonomisinde Emekçi Bir İş Kolu: Dolguculuk

Öz

Roma Toplumu pek çok farklı mesleğe sahip insanın oluşturduğu kozmopolit bir yapıya sahiptir. Bu meslekler içerisinde Türkçe karşılığı “dolguculuk” ya da “dinkleme” olarak nitelendirilebilen, başta yünden mamul olmak üzere giysilerin hem temizlenmesini hem görünümünün iyileştirilmesini hem de yeni üretilmiş bir giysinin pazara sürülmeden önceki endüstriyel olarak son dokunuşların yapılmasını içeren meslek kolu da yer almaktadır. Her toplumda olduğu gibi Roma’da da insanlar giyeceklerinin temiz ve bakımlı olmasına itina göstermişleridir. Evlerde yapılan basit kumaş temizliklerinden daha fazlasını sunan dolguculuk mesleği daha çok Roma toplumundaki zengin kesime hitap etmiştir. Dolguculuk mesleği ile günümüzdeki kuru temizlemecilik arasında işin temel mantığı anlamında benzerlikler kurabilmek mümkündür. Bu meslekle uğraşan dolgu ustaları ve onların mesleki maharetleri dikkat çekicidir. Çünkü bu ustalar pekçok aşamayı içeren mesleki icralarını büyük bir özen ile yapmışladır. Dolguculukta kullanılan maddeler ve bu maddelerin işlevleri ile mesleğin yapıldığı dolgu atölyelerinin mimari özellikleri de dikkatle incelenmesi gereken diğer konulardır. Özellikle Roma İtalya’sında bulunan Pompei, Ostia, Roma, Herculaneum ve Floransa’daki dolgu atölyelerindeki arkeolojik araştırmalar ve yazılı kaynaklar sayesinde Roma Tekstil Ekonomisi içerisinde hatırı sayılır bir yere sahip olan bu meslekle ilgili detaylı bilgilere ulaşmak mümkündür. Bu çalışmanın temel amacı dolguculuk mesleğinin mevcut veriler ışığında Roma toplumu içerisindeki yeri ve önemi üzerine bir değerlendirme yapmaktır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Dolguculuk, Dinkleme, Roma Tekstil Ekonomisi, Giysi, Temizleme, Dolgu Ustası, Dolgu Atölyesi

Kaynakça

• Adam, J. P. (1984). La constuction Romanies: materiaux et techniques. Picard.
• Allison, P. M. (2001). Using the material and written sources: turn of the millennium approaches to Roman domestic space. American Journal of Archaeology, 105, 181-208.
• Allison, P. M. (2006). The insula of the menander at Pompeii. III: the finds, a contextual study. Clarendon Press. Apuleius. (1998). Metamorphoseis (Çev. E. J. Kenney). Penguin Group.
• Baines, P. (1985). Flax and linen, Shire Publications.
• Blümner, H. (1912). Technologie und terminologie der gewerme und künste bei griechen und Römern. B.G. Teubner.
• Bradley, M. (2002). It all comes out in the wash: looking harder at the Roman fullonicae. Journal of Roman Archaeology, 15, 21-44.
• Brunn, C. (1993). Lotores: Roman bath-attendants. Zeitschrift für Papyrologie und Epigraphik, 98, 222-228.
• Carus-Wilson, E. M. (1941). An industrial revolution of the thirteenth century. The Economic History Review, 11(1), 39-60.
• Cato Marcus Porcius. (1935). De agricultura (Çev. W. D. Hooper). W. Heinemann.
• Clarke, J. (2003). Art in the lives of ordinary Romans. University of California Press. Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum. (1853).
• Dixon, S. (2001). How do you count them if they’re not there: new perspectives on the Roman clothing industry. Opuscula Romana, 25–26, 7–17.
• Edmondson, J. (2008). Public dress and social control in late republican and early imperial Rome. J. Edmondson ve A. Keith (Ed.), Roman dress and the fabrics of Roman culture (s. 21-46). University of Toronto Press.
• Erim, K., Reynolds, J., Wild, J. P., & Ballance, M. H. (1970). The copy of Diocletian’s edict on maximum prices from Aphrodisias in Caria. JRS, 60, 120-141.
• Finley, M. (1985). The ancient economy. Hogarth Press.
• Flohr, M. (2003). Fullones and Roman society: a reconsideration. Journal of Roman Archaeology, 16, 447-450.
• Flohr, M. (2005). Ars fullonia interpreting and contextualising Roman fulling. C. Briault, J. Green, A. Kaldelis ve A. Stellatou (Ed.), Soma 2003: Symposium on Mediterranean Archaeology (s. 59-63). Archeopress.
• Flohr, M. (2013). The world of the fullo: work, economy, and society in Roman Italy. Oxford University Press.
• Forbes, R. (1955). Studies in ancient technology (4. cilt). Brill.
• Foss, P. (1994). Kitchens and dining rooms at Pompeii: the spatial and social relationship of cooking to eating in the Roman household (1-2. cilt) (Tez No: 9513356) [Doktora Tezi, University of Michigan].
• Frayn, J. M. (1984). Sheep-rearing and the wool trade in Italy during the Roman period. Francis Cairns.
• Gaius. (1904). Institutiones (Çev. E. Poste). Clarendon Press.
• Gleba, M. (2008). Textile production in pre-Roman Italy. Oxbow Books.
• Granger-Taylor, H. (1987). The emperor’s clothes: the fold lines. The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art, 74(3),114-123.
• Graser, E. R. (1940). The edict of Diocletian on maximum prices. T. Frank (Ed.), Economic Survey of the Roman Empire (s. 305-521). Johns Hopkins Press.
• Harris, W. V. (2000). Trade. The Cambridge Ancient History The High Empire A.D. 70–192, 11, 710–740.
• Holleran, C. (2012). Shopping in ancient Rome: the retail trade in the late republic and the principate. Oxford University Press.
• Horden, P., & Purcell, N. (2000). The corrupting sea. Wiley-Blackwell.
• Hurst, H. R. (1994). Excavation at Carthage: the British mission, part 1: the circular harbour north side: the site and finds other than pottery (2. cilt). Oxford University Press.
• Jones, A. H. M. (1960). The cloth industry under the Roman empire. Economic History Review, 13(2), 183-192.
• Jongman, W. (2000). Wool and the textile industry of Roman Italy: a working hypothesis. E. Lo Cascio (Ed.), Mercati Permanenti e Mercati Periodici Nel Mondo Romano (s. 189-197). Edipuglia.
• Kutsal Kitap, Eski ve Yeni Antlaşma (Tevrat, Zebur, İncil). (2016). Yeni Yaşam Yayınları.
• Lauffer, S. (1971). Diocletians preisedikt.
• Leary, T. J. (1996). Martial book XIV the Apophoreta. Duckworth Books.
• Ling, R. (1997). The insula of the menander: the structures (1. cilt). Clarendon Press.
• Macrobius. (1969). Saturnalia (Çev. P. V. Davies). Columbia University Press.
• Manning, W. (1985). Catalogue of the Romano-British iron tools, fitting and weapons in the British museum. British Museum Publications.
• Martialis. (1919). Epigrammata (Çev. W. Ker). Loeb.
• Moeller, W.O. (1976). The wool trade of ancient Pompeii. Brill.
• Morley, N. (1996). Metropolis and hinterland. Cambridge University Press.
• Munro, J. (2002). Industrial energy from water-mills in the European economy, 5th to 18th centuries: the limitations of power. S. Cavaciocchi (Ed.), Economia e Energia Sec. XIII-XVIII Atti della trentaquattresima Settimana di Studi (s. 223-269). Le Monnier.
• Munro, J. (2003). Medieval woollens: the western European woollen industries and their struggles for international markets c.1000-1500. D. T. Jenkins (Ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (s. 228–324). Cambridge University Press.
• Ovidius. (1914). Heroides-amores (Çev. G. Showerman). Loeb.
• Ovidius. (1939). Tristia-ex ponto (Çev. A. L. Wheeler). Harvard University Press.
• Ovidius. (1959). Fasti (Çev. G. Frazer). Harvard University Press.
• Peacock, D. (1980). The Roman millstone trade: a petrological sketch. World Archaeology, 12(1), 43-53.
• Petronius. (1922). Satirae (Çev. W. C. Firebaugh). Modern Library.
• Plautus. (1912). Aulularia (Çev. H. T. Riley). G. Bell&Sons.
• Plautus. (1912). Asinaria (Çev. H. T. Riley). G. Bell&Sons.
• Plautus. (1912). Miles (Çev. H. T. Riley). G. Bell&Sons.
• Plautus. (1912). Pseudolus (Çev. H. T. Riley). G. Bell&Sons.
• Plinius. (1855). Naturalis historia (Çev. J. Bostock ve H. T. Riley). Taylor and Francis.
• Seneca. (1917). Epistulae morales (Çev. R. M. Gummere). Harvard University Press.
• Strabon. (1903). Geographika (Çev. H.C. Hamilton). G. Bell & Sons.
• Uytven, V. R. (1971) The fulling mill: dynamics of the revulotion in industrial attitudes. J. W. S. Nordholt ve D. V. Arkel (Ed.), Historical Studies in the Netherlands (5. cilt) (s.1-14). Brill.
• Varro. (1934). Res rusticae (Çev. W. D. Hooper and H. B. Ash). Harvard University Press.
• Walton, P. (1991). Textiles. J. Blair and N. Ramsay (Ed.), English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products (s. 319-354). Hambledon Press.
• Whitmarsh, T. (2009). Ancient history through ancient literature. A. Erksine (Ed.), A Companion to Ancient History (s. 77-86). Blackwell Publishing.
• Wild, J. P. (2002). The textile industries of Roman Britain. Brittannia, 33, 1-42.
• Wild, J. P. (2003). The Romans in the west 600 bc-ad 400. D. Jenkins (Ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (s. 77–93). Cambridge University Press
• Wilson, A. (2001). Timgad and textile production. D. J. Mattingly ve J. Salmon (Ed.), Economies Beyond Agriculture in the Classical World (s. 271-296). Routledge.
• Wilson, A. (2003). The archaeology of the Roman fullonicae. Journal of Roman Archaeology, 16, 442–446.