A Labouring Sector in the Roman Textile Economy: Fulling

Yıl 2024, Cilt: 8 Sayı: 29, 67 - 80, 30.09.2024

Rahim Kızgut

https://doi.org/10.31455/asya.1442018

Öz

Roman society has a cosmopolitan structure consisting of people with many different professions. Among these professions, there is also a branch of the profession, which can be described as “fulling” or “tucking” in Turkish, which involves both cleaning and improving the appearance of garments, especially those made of wool, as well as the industrial finishing touches of a newly produced garment before it is put on the market. As in every society, people in Rome also paid attention to keeping their clothes clean and well-groomed. The padding profession, which offered more than simple fabric cleaning at home, appealed mostly to the wealthy segment of Roman society. It is possible to establish similarities between the padding profession and today's dry cleaning in terms of the basic logic of the work. The filling masters engaged in this profession and their professional skills are remarkable. This is because these masters performed their professional practices, which included many stages, with great care. The materials used in filling, the functions of these materials and the architectural features of the filling workshops where the profession was carried out are other issues that should be carefully examined. It is possible to find detailed information about this profession, which has a considerable place in the Roman Textile Economy, thanks to archaeological researches and written sources, especially in the filling workshops in Pompei, Ostia, Rome, Herculaneum and Florence in Roman Italy. The main purpose of this study is to make an assessment of the place and importance of the filling profession in Roman society in the light of the available data.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Fulling, Dinking, Roman Textile Economy, Garment, Cleaning, Fuller, Fullonicae

Roma Tekstil Ekonomisinde Emekçi Bir İş Kolu: Dolguculuk

Öz

Roma Toplumu pek çok farklı mesleğe sahip insanın oluşturduğu kozmopolit bir yapıya sahiptir. Bu meslekler içerisinde Türkçe karşılığı “dolguculuk” ya da “dinkleme” olarak nitelendirilebilen, başta yünden mamul olmak üzere giysilerin hem temizlenmesini hem görünümünün iyileştirilmesini hem de yeni üretilmiş bir giysinin pazara sürülmeden önceki endüstriyel olarak son dokunuşların yapılmasını içeren meslek kolu da yer almaktadır. Her toplumda olduğu gibi Roma’da da insanlar giyeceklerinin temiz ve bakımlı olmasına itina göstermişleridir. Evlerde yapılan basit kumaş temizliklerinden daha fazlasını sunan dolguculuk mesleği daha çok Roma toplumundaki zengin kesime hitap etmiştir. Dolguculuk mesleği ile günümüzdeki kuru temizlemecilik arasında işin temel mantığı anlamında benzerlikler kurabilmek mümkündür. Bu meslekle uğraşan dolgu ustaları ve onların mesleki maharetleri dikkat çekicidir. Çünkü bu ustalar pekçok aşamayı içeren mesleki icralarını büyük bir özen ile yapmışladır. Dolguculukta kullanılan maddeler ve bu maddelerin işlevleri ile mesleğin yapıldığı dolgu atölyelerinin mimari özellikleri de dikkatle incelenmesi gereken diğer konulardır. Özellikle Roma İtalya’sında bulunan Pompei, Ostia, Roma, Herculaneum ve Floransa’daki dolgu atölyelerindeki arkeolojik araştırmalar ve yazılı kaynaklar sayesinde Roma Tekstil Ekonomisi içerisinde hatırı sayılır bir yere sahip olan bu meslekle ilgili detaylı bilgilere ulaşmak mümkündür. Bu çalışmanın temel amacı dolguculuk mesleğinin mevcut veriler ışığında Roma toplumu içerisindeki yeri ve önemi üzerine bir değerlendirme yapmaktır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Dolguculuk, Dinkleme, Roma Tekstil Ekonomisi, Giysi, Temizleme, Dolgu Ustası, Dolgu Atölyesi

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