Araştırma Makalesi
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Scene, Symbol, Status: A Multi-Theoretical Onto-Semiotic Analysis of Luxury Consumption

Yıl 2026, Cilt: 26 Sayı: 1, 173 - 193, 28.03.2026
https://doi.org/10.18037/ausbd.1745995
https://izlik.org/JA55FP47ZJ

Öz

This study offers an onto-semiotic analysis of Gucci’s 2021 Aria campaign, arguing that luxury fashion imagery operates not only as representation but also as an ontological stage where identity, belonging, and status are aesthetically produced as modes of being. Integrating four theoretical axes Benjamin’s aura, Baudrillard’s simulation, Bourdieu’s cultural capital, and Butler’s gender performativity the study builds a multi-layered analytical framework anchored in Barthes’ semiotic model (signifier-signified-myth). While prior research on fashion campaigns often relies on single-theory readings, this article advances a methodological contribution by extending conventional semiotic analysis toward an onto-semiotic perspective, incorporating an ontological layer that conceptualizes signification not merely as meaning-making but also as the production of existential positioning within consumer culture. Based on purposive sampling, four scenes from the official campaign film were selected according to symbolic density, thematic diversity, and narrative function, and systematically analyzed across levels of signification. Findings indicate that the campaign reconstructs the lost aura of the digital age through ritual aesthetics and theatrical staging; transforms status from lived reality into represented performance through simulation; visually reconfigures cultural-capital codes via architectural, iconographic, and corporeal markers; and performs gender fluidity through androgynous figures. Overall, the study demonstrates that luxury fashion visuals function beyond aesthetic display, serving as a symbolic and ontological apparatus through which class positioning and identity performances are staged. Although limited to a single campaign and lacking audience reception data, the proposed onto-semiotic framework provides a transferable conceptual basis for future multi-campaign and platform-based studies, while offering practical insights for luxury brand strategists regarding auratic experience design, staging practices, cultural-code management, and gender-fluid representational aesthetics.

Kaynakça

  • Abidin, C. (2021). Mapping internet celebrity on TikTok: Exploring attention economies and visibility labours. Cultural science journal, 12(1), 77-103. https://doi.org/10.5334/csci.140
  • Anderson, E., Honneth, A., & van den Brink, B. (2010). The struggle for recognition: The moral grammar of social conflicts. Polity Press.
  • Arnould, E. J., & Thompson, C. J. (2005). Consumer culture theory (CCT): Twenty years of research. Journal of consumer research, 31(4), 868-882.
  • Arsel, Z., & Thompson, C. J. (2011). Demythologizing consumption practices: How consumers protect their identities from ideological harm. Journal of consumer research, 37(5), 791-806.
  • Barthes, R. (2017). Mythologies. Hill and Wang. (Original work published 1957)
  • Baudrillard, J. (1981). Simulacres et simulation. Éditions Galilée.
  • Baudrillard, J. (1998). The consumer society: Myths and structures. Sage.
  • Bauman, Z. (2007). Consuming life. Polity Press.
  • Belk, R. W. (1988). Possessions and the extended self. Journal of consumer research, 15(2), 139-168.
  • Bell, D., & Leong, S. (Eds.). (2022). The Cambridge companion to fashion and gender. Cambridge University Press.
  • Benjamin, W. (2008). The work of art in the age of its technological reproducibility and other writings on media. Harvard University Press. (Original work published 1935)
  • Bolaki, S. (2021). Fashion, gender fluidity, and contemporary visual culture. Fashion theory, 25(6), 853-875.
  • Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste. Harvard University Press.
  • Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.
  • Chandler, D. (2007). Semiotics: The basics (2nd ed.). Routledge.
  • Craik, J. (1994). The face of fashion: Cultural studies in fashion. Routledge.
  • Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing. University of Chicago Press.
  • Creswell, J. W., & Poth, C. N. (2018). Qualitative inquiry and research design: Choosing among five approaches (4th ed.). Sage.
  • Danziger, P. (2022). Luxury in the age of digital simulation. Journal of consumer culture, 22(3), 512-530.
  • Dion, D., & Arnould, E. J. (2011). Retail luxury strategy: Assembling charisma through art and magic. Journal of retailing, 87(4), 502-520.
  • Entwistle, J. (2015). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory (2nd ed.). Polity Press.
  • Ergül, N. (2021). Göstergebilimsel imge analizi: “Muhsin Bey” film afişi örneği. Journal of social, humanities and administrative sciences, 7(44), 1608-612.
  • Ergül Güvendi, N. (2023). Cumhuriyet’in modern ve mutsuz kadınları: Çağdaş Türk resim sanatında kadın imgesinin göstergebilimsel çözümlemesi. Afyon Kocatepe Üniversitesi sosyal bilimler dergisi, 25(100. Yılında Cumhuriyet Özel Sayısı), 114-127.
  • Featherstone, M. (1991). Consumer culture and postmodernism. Sage.
  • Floridi, L. (2017). The fourth revolution: How the infosphere is reshaping human reality. Oxford University Press.
  • Foucault, M. (1977). Discipline and punish: The birth of the prison. Pantheon Books.
  • Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2020). Fashion and masculinities in popular culture. Routledge.
  • Gill, R. (2016). Postfeminism and the new sexual contract: The visual politics of gender in contemporary consumer culture. Social politics, 23(2), 149-175.
  • Hansen, M. B. N. (2020). Feed-forward: On the future of twenty-first-century media. University of Chicago Press.
  • Holt, D. B. (1998). Does cultural capital structure American consumption? Journal of consumer research, 25(1), 1-25.
  • Ihde, D. (2019). Postphenomenology and technoscience: The Peking University lectures. SUNY Press.
  • Jain, A. K., & Mehta, R. (2022). Androgynous aesthetics: Fashion as resistance. International Journal of multidisciplinary educational research, 11(10), 159-170.
  • Kapferer, J.-N., & Bastien, V. (2012). The luxury strategy: Break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands (2nd ed.). Kogan Page.
  • Ko, E., & Megehee, C. M. (2012). Fashion marketing of luxury brands: Recent research issues and contributions. Journal of business research, 65(10), 1395-1398.
  • Lewis, G., & Moeran, B. (2022). Luxury fashion branding: Trends, tactics and transformations. Bloomsbury.
  • McNeill, L., & Venter, B. (2019). Identity, self-concept and young women’s engagement with fashion brands. Journal of fashion marketing and management, 23(2), 232-247.
  • Mirzoeff, N. (2016). How to see the world. Penguin.
  • Moutinho, L., Ramaseshan, B., & Balasubramanian, S. (2023). AI-generated aesthetics and the future of luxury branding. Journal of strategic marketing. Advance online publication.
  • Mulvey, L. (2005). Visual and other pleasures (2nd ed.). Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Paulicelli, E. (2004). Fashion under fascism: Beyond the black shirt. Berg.
  • Rocamora, A. (2017). Mediatization and digital fashion. Fashion theory, 21(5), 505-522.
  • Rocamora, A. (2022). Meta-fashion: Digital bodies, platforms and dress. International journal of fashion studies, 9(1), 9-25.
  • Skeggs, B. (2004). Class, self, culture. Routledge.
  • Slater, D. (1997). Consumer culture and modernity. Polity Press.
  • Steyerl, H. (2017). Duty free art: Art in the age of planetary civil war. Verso.
  • Turner, V. (1969). The ritual process: Structure and anti-structure. Aldine Publishing.
  • Vänskä, A. (2020). Sexualising fashion? An introduction to the special theme issue. Sexualities, 23(5-6), 692-701. https://doi.org/10.1177/1363460720939401 (Original work published 2020).
  • Vickers, J. S., & Renand, F. (2003). The marketing of luxury goods: An exploratory study. Marketing review, 3(4), 459-478.
  • Whelehan, B. (2010). The meanings of the horse: Equine symbolism in culture and power. Routledge.
  • Zwick, D., & Cayla, J. (Eds.). (2011). Inside marketing: Practices, ideologies, devices. Oxford University Press.

Sahne, Simge, Statü: Lüks Tüketimde Çoklu-Kuramsal, Onto-Göstergebilimsel Analiz

Yıl 2026, Cilt: 26 Sayı: 1, 173 - 193, 28.03.2026
https://doi.org/10.18037/ausbd.1745995
https://izlik.org/JA55FP47ZJ

Öz

Bu çalışma, Gucci’nin 2021 Aria kampanyasını onto-göstergebilimsel bir perspektifle çözümleyerek lüks tüketim görsellerinin yalnızca temsil düzeyinde değil, kimlik, aidiyet ve statünün “olma hâli” olarak kurulduğu ontolojik bir sahne şeklinde işleyişini tartışmaktadır. Çalışma, Benjamin’in aura, Baudrillard’ın simülasyon, Bourdieu’nün kültürel sermaye ve Butler’ın toplumsal cinsiyet performativitesi kuramsal eksenlerini, Barthes’ın göstergebilimsel üçlemesi (gösteren-gösterilen-mit/üst-anlam) ile çok katmanlı analitik düzlemde birleştirmektedir. Literatürde moda kampanyalarının çoğunlukla tekil kuramsal çerçevelerle incelenmesine karşılık bu araştırma, klasik göstergebilimsel çözümlemeyi genişleterek ontolojik katmanı analize dâhil eden ve böylece gösterge üretimini “anlamlandırma” ile sınırlamayıp varoluşsal konumlanış üretimi olarak da ele alan yöntemsel bir yenilik önermektedir. Barthesçı çözümleme doğrultusunda, resmî kampanya filminden amaçlı örnekleme ile seçilen dört sahne; sembolik yoğunluk, tematik çeşitlilik ve anlatısal işlev ölçütleri temelinde, gösteren-gösterilen-anlam düzlemlerinde sistematik biçimde analiz edilmiştir. Bulgular, kampanyanın dijital çağda kaybolan aurayı ritüel estetik ve teatral sahneleme yoluyla yeniden ürettiğini; simülasyonun statüyü deneyimlenen bir gerçeklikten çok temsil edilen bir performansa dönüştürdüğünü; kültürel sermaye kodlarının mimari, ikonografik ve bedensel işaretlerle görsel düzeyde yeniden kurulduğunu; toplumsal cinsiyetin ise androjen figürler aracılığıyla akışkan biçimde performe edildiğini göstermektedir. Sonuç olarak çalışma, lüks moda görsellerinin estetik sunumun ötesinde, sınıfsal konumlanışın, kimlik performanslarının ve aidiyet biçimlerinin sembolik ve ontolojik üretim alanı olarak işlediğini ortaya koymakta; ayrıca marka yöneticileri ve yaratıcı ekipler için auratik deneyim tasarımı, sahneleme stratejileri, kültürel kod yönetimi ve cinsiyet-akışkan temsil estetiğine ilişkin çıkarımlar sunmaktadır. Tek kampanyaya odaklanma ve tüketici alımlaması verisi içermeme sınırlılık olmakla birlikte, önerilen onto-göstergebilimsel çerçeve gelecekteki çoklu kampanya çalışmalarına aktarılabilir güçlü bir kavramsal temel sağlamaktadır.

Kaynakça

  • Abidin, C. (2021). Mapping internet celebrity on TikTok: Exploring attention economies and visibility labours. Cultural science journal, 12(1), 77-103. https://doi.org/10.5334/csci.140
  • Anderson, E., Honneth, A., & van den Brink, B. (2010). The struggle for recognition: The moral grammar of social conflicts. Polity Press.
  • Arnould, E. J., & Thompson, C. J. (2005). Consumer culture theory (CCT): Twenty years of research. Journal of consumer research, 31(4), 868-882.
  • Arsel, Z., & Thompson, C. J. (2011). Demythologizing consumption practices: How consumers protect their identities from ideological harm. Journal of consumer research, 37(5), 791-806.
  • Barthes, R. (2017). Mythologies. Hill and Wang. (Original work published 1957)
  • Baudrillard, J. (1981). Simulacres et simulation. Éditions Galilée.
  • Baudrillard, J. (1998). The consumer society: Myths and structures. Sage.
  • Bauman, Z. (2007). Consuming life. Polity Press.
  • Belk, R. W. (1988). Possessions and the extended self. Journal of consumer research, 15(2), 139-168.
  • Bell, D., & Leong, S. (Eds.). (2022). The Cambridge companion to fashion and gender. Cambridge University Press.
  • Benjamin, W. (2008). The work of art in the age of its technological reproducibility and other writings on media. Harvard University Press. (Original work published 1935)
  • Bolaki, S. (2021). Fashion, gender fluidity, and contemporary visual culture. Fashion theory, 25(6), 853-875.
  • Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste. Harvard University Press.
  • Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. Routledge.
  • Chandler, D. (2007). Semiotics: The basics (2nd ed.). Routledge.
  • Craik, J. (1994). The face of fashion: Cultural studies in fashion. Routledge.
  • Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing. University of Chicago Press.
  • Creswell, J. W., & Poth, C. N. (2018). Qualitative inquiry and research design: Choosing among five approaches (4th ed.). Sage.
  • Danziger, P. (2022). Luxury in the age of digital simulation. Journal of consumer culture, 22(3), 512-530.
  • Dion, D., & Arnould, E. J. (2011). Retail luxury strategy: Assembling charisma through art and magic. Journal of retailing, 87(4), 502-520.
  • Entwistle, J. (2015). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory (2nd ed.). Polity Press.
  • Ergül, N. (2021). Göstergebilimsel imge analizi: “Muhsin Bey” film afişi örneği. Journal of social, humanities and administrative sciences, 7(44), 1608-612.
  • Ergül Güvendi, N. (2023). Cumhuriyet’in modern ve mutsuz kadınları: Çağdaş Türk resim sanatında kadın imgesinin göstergebilimsel çözümlemesi. Afyon Kocatepe Üniversitesi sosyal bilimler dergisi, 25(100. Yılında Cumhuriyet Özel Sayısı), 114-127.
  • Featherstone, M. (1991). Consumer culture and postmodernism. Sage.
  • Floridi, L. (2017). The fourth revolution: How the infosphere is reshaping human reality. Oxford University Press.
  • Foucault, M. (1977). Discipline and punish: The birth of the prison. Pantheon Books.
  • Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2020). Fashion and masculinities in popular culture. Routledge.
  • Gill, R. (2016). Postfeminism and the new sexual contract: The visual politics of gender in contemporary consumer culture. Social politics, 23(2), 149-175.
  • Hansen, M. B. N. (2020). Feed-forward: On the future of twenty-first-century media. University of Chicago Press.
  • Holt, D. B. (1998). Does cultural capital structure American consumption? Journal of consumer research, 25(1), 1-25.
  • Ihde, D. (2019). Postphenomenology and technoscience: The Peking University lectures. SUNY Press.
  • Jain, A. K., & Mehta, R. (2022). Androgynous aesthetics: Fashion as resistance. International Journal of multidisciplinary educational research, 11(10), 159-170.
  • Kapferer, J.-N., & Bastien, V. (2012). The luxury strategy: Break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands (2nd ed.). Kogan Page.
  • Ko, E., & Megehee, C. M. (2012). Fashion marketing of luxury brands: Recent research issues and contributions. Journal of business research, 65(10), 1395-1398.
  • Lewis, G., & Moeran, B. (2022). Luxury fashion branding: Trends, tactics and transformations. Bloomsbury.
  • McNeill, L., & Venter, B. (2019). Identity, self-concept and young women’s engagement with fashion brands. Journal of fashion marketing and management, 23(2), 232-247.
  • Mirzoeff, N. (2016). How to see the world. Penguin.
  • Moutinho, L., Ramaseshan, B., & Balasubramanian, S. (2023). AI-generated aesthetics and the future of luxury branding. Journal of strategic marketing. Advance online publication.
  • Mulvey, L. (2005). Visual and other pleasures (2nd ed.). Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Paulicelli, E. (2004). Fashion under fascism: Beyond the black shirt. Berg.
  • Rocamora, A. (2017). Mediatization and digital fashion. Fashion theory, 21(5), 505-522.
  • Rocamora, A. (2022). Meta-fashion: Digital bodies, platforms and dress. International journal of fashion studies, 9(1), 9-25.
  • Skeggs, B. (2004). Class, self, culture. Routledge.
  • Slater, D. (1997). Consumer culture and modernity. Polity Press.
  • Steyerl, H. (2017). Duty free art: Art in the age of planetary civil war. Verso.
  • Turner, V. (1969). The ritual process: Structure and anti-structure. Aldine Publishing.
  • Vänskä, A. (2020). Sexualising fashion? An introduction to the special theme issue. Sexualities, 23(5-6), 692-701. https://doi.org/10.1177/1363460720939401 (Original work published 2020).
  • Vickers, J. S., & Renand, F. (2003). The marketing of luxury goods: An exploratory study. Marketing review, 3(4), 459-478.
  • Whelehan, B. (2010). The meanings of the horse: Equine symbolism in culture and power. Routledge.
  • Zwick, D., & Cayla, J. (Eds.). (2011). Inside marketing: Practices, ideologies, devices. Oxford University Press.
Toplam 50 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil Türkçe
Konular İletişim Çalışmaları
Bölüm Araştırma Makalesi
Yazarlar

Nurgül Ergül 0000-0002-9473-1474

Gönderilme Tarihi 18 Temmuz 2025
Kabul Tarihi 21 Ocak 2026
Yayımlanma Tarihi 28 Mart 2026
DOI https://doi.org/10.18037/ausbd.1745995
IZ https://izlik.org/JA55FP47ZJ
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2026 Cilt: 26 Sayı: 1

Kaynak Göster

APA Ergül, N. (2026). Sahne, Simge, Statü: Lüks Tüketimde Çoklu-Kuramsal, Onto-Göstergebilimsel Analiz. Anadolu Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 26(1), 173-193. https://doi.org/10.18037/ausbd.1745995