Örme Kumaşların Fiziksel Özelliklerinin Dikiş Makinesi İğnelerinin Isınmasına Etkilerinin Analizi

Yıl 2023, , 495 - 506, 28.07.2023

Engin Akçagün Abdurrahim Yılmaz Mahmut Kayar

https://doi.org/10.21605/cukurovaumfd.1334112

Öz

Hazır giyim sanayisinde artan talep dolayısıyla endüstriyel dikiş makineleri 2000-3000 devirlerde varan yüksek hızlarda çalışmaktadır. İğne sıcaklığı makine hızı, iplik tansiyonu, kumaş özellikleri gibi birçok parametreden etkilenerek 300 oC sıcaklıklara ulaşarak dikiş kalitesi ve verimliliğini olumsuz yönde etkileyen en önemli problemlerden birisidir. Bu çalışmada, örme kumaşlarda iğne ile tekstil yüzeyi arasındaki sürtünmeden kaynaklanan ısı ve ısıyı etkileyen kumaş özellikleri incelenmektedir. Çalışmada dört farklı örgü tekniğine ve on iki farklı ağırlık, kalınlık, karışım özelliğine sahip örme kumaşlar kullanılmıştır. İğne üzerindeki ısıyı ölçmek için Optris CT3M pirometre kullanılmıştır. Sonuçlar şöyle özetlenebilir: tüm örme kumaşlarda, kumaş ağırlığı ve kalınlığındaki artışın iğne sıcaklığı değerleri ile bağlantılı bir artışa neden olduğu gözlemlenmiştir. 90 oC üzerindeki iğne sıcaklık değerleri en yüksek sıcaklık değerleri 1.31 mm kumaş kalınlığı ve 340 g/m2 kumaş ağırlığı ile TF2 kodlu üç iplik kumaşta elde edilirken, 100 g/m2 kumaş ağırlığı ve 0.39 mm ile en hafif ve en ince kumaş türünde 66 oC ve altındaki en düşük iğne sıcaklıkları elde edilmiştir. Bunların yanında kumaş dikiş yoğunluğu ile iğne ısısı arasında anlamlı bir ilişki bulunmamıştır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Dikiş makinesi iğnesi, Isınma, Örme kumaş, Fiziksel özellikler

Analysing The Effects of Knitted Fabrics Physical Properties to The Heating of Sewing Machine Needles

Öz

Due to the increasing demand in the clothing industry, industrial sewing machines operate at high speeds ranging from 2000 to 3000 revolutions per minute. One of the most significant problems that adversely affect the stitching quality and efficiency is the needle temperature, which reaches up to 300 oC and is influenced by various parameters such as machine speed, thread tension, and fabric properties. In this study, the heat generated from the friction between the needle and the textile surface in knitted fabrics and the fabric properties affecting heat are examined. Four different knitting techniques and twelve different knitted fabrics with varying weights, thicknesses, and blend properties were used. An Optris CT3M pyrometer was employed to measure the temperature on the needle. The results can be summarized as follows: in all knitted fabrics, an increase in fabric weight and thickness was observed to correspond to an increase in needle temperature values. The highest needle temperature values above 90 oC were obtained in TF2-coded three-thread fleece fabric with a fabric thickness of 1.31 mm and a fabric weight of 340 g/m2, while the lowest needle temperatures of 66 oC and below were achieved in the lightest and thinnest fabric with a fabric weight of 100 g/m2 and a thickness of 0.39 mm. Additionally, no significant relationship was found between fabric stitching density and needle temperature.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Sewing machine needle, Heating, Knitted fabric, Physical properties

Kaynakça

• 1. Kalaoğlu, F., 1992. Dikim İşlemi Sırasında Sürtünme Isısına Etki Eden Malzeme Değişkenlerinin İncelenmesi. PhD Thesis, İstanbul Technical University, Institute of Pure and Applied Sciences, İstanbul, 143.
• 2. Mazari, A., Havelka, A., Mazari, F.B., 2012. Needle Eye Temperature Measurement at Different Speeds of Sewing. 2012 International Conference on Engineering and Technology (ICET), Cairo, Egypt, 1-4.
• 3. Mazari, A., Havelka, A., 2013. Tensile Properties of Sewing Thread and Sewing Needle Temperature at Different Speed of Sewing Machine. Advanced Materials Research, 627, 456-460.
• 4. Li, Q., Liasi, E., Zou, H.J., Du, R., 2001. A Study on the Needle Heating in Heavy Industrial Sewing: Part 1: Analytical Models. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, 87-105.
• 5. Liasi, E., Du, R., Simon, D., Bujas‐Dimitrejevic, J., Liburdi, F., 1999. An Experimental Study of Needle Heating in Sewing Heavy Materials Using Infrared Radiometry. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, 300-314.
• 6. Hersh, S.P., Grady, P.L., 1969. Needle Heating During High-Speed Sewing. Textile Research Journal, 39, 101-120.
• 7. Thilagavathi, G., Viju, S., 2013. Process Control in Textile Manufacturing. Elsevier, 512.
• 8. Gurarda, A., Meric, B., 2005. Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Fiber Damage during the Sewing of Cotton/Elastane Woven Fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 75, 628–633.
• 9. Choudhary, A.K., Sikka, M.P., Bansal, P. 2018. The Study of Sewing Damage and Defects in Garments. RJTA, 22, 109-125.
• 10. Domjani, J., Kova, S., Ujevi, D., 2016. An Investigation of Fabric Properties and Needle Penetration Force During Tailoring. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 26, 100-108.
• 11. Yıldız, E.Z., Pamuk, O., 2021. The Parameters Affecting Seam Quality: A Comprehensive Review. RJTA, 25, 309-329.
• 12. Rudolf, A., Geršak, J., 2012. The Effect of Drawing on Pet Filament Sewing Thread Performance Properties. Textile Research Journal, 82, 148-160.
• 13. Midha, V.K., Kothari, V.K., Chattopadhyay, R., Mukhopadhyay, A., 2010. Effect of Workwear Fabric Characteristics on the Changes in Tensile Properties of Sewing Threads After Sewing. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 5, 31-38.
• 14. Mazari, A., Zhu, G., Havelka, A., 2014. Sewing Needle Temperature of an Industrial Lockstitch Machine. Industria Textila, 65, 335-339.
• 15. Mazari, A., Bal, K., Havelka, A., 2016. Prediction of Needle Heating in an Industrial Sewing Machine. Textile Research Journal, 86, 302-310.
• 16. Li, Q., Liasi, E., Simon, D., Du, R., 2001. A Study on the Needle Heating in Heavy Industrial Sewing: Part 2: Finite Element Analysis and Experiment Verification. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, 351-367.
• 17. Vedat, D., Yargici, M.E., Salman, S., 2014. Analyzing the Effects of Sewing Machine Needle Coating Materials on the Needle’s Heating During Sewing. Teksti̇l ve Konfeksi̇yon, 24, 393-398.
• 18. Mazari, A., Havelka, A., Wiener, J., Zbigniew, R., 2015. A Study on DLC-Coated Industrial Lockstitch Sewing Needle, Industria Textila, 66, 43-47.
• 19. Koncer, P., Gürarda, A., Kaplangiray, B., Kanik, M., 2014. The Effects of Sewing Thread Properties on the Needle Thread Tension in an Industrial Sewing Machine. Teksti̇l ve Konfeksi̇yon, 24, 118-123.
• 20. Yukseloglu, S.M., Çi̇toğlu, F., Çetinkaya, B., 2013. A Study on the Needle Heating in Polyester Blend Upholstery Fabrics. Industria Textila, 64, 246-253.
• 21. Dal V, Kayar M, Akçagün E., 2014. Examination of the Effects of the Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics on the Heating of Sewing Machine Needles. Fibres&Textiles in Eastern Europe, 22, 113-117.
• 22. Basic Principles of Non-Contact Temperature Measurement, Optris Infrared Sensing. LLC, 40.
• 23. Priest, J., 2004. Temperature and Its Measurement. Encyclopedia of Energy, (Cleveland, Cutler J. eds.) Elsevier, New York, 45-54.
• 24. Röhrens, D., Abouserie, A., Wang, B., Haselmann, G., Simon, U., 2022. Microwave-Assisted CO Oxidation over Perovskites as a Model Reaction for Exhaust Aftertreatment-A Critical Assessment of Opportunities and Challenges. Catalysts, 12, 802.
• 25. Childs, P., 2001. Practical Temperature Measurement. Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford Boston, 368.
• 26. Goodwin, A.R.H., Marsh, K.N., Wakham, W.A., 2003. Measurement of the Thermodynamic Properties of Single Phases. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 576.
• 27. Mazari, A.A. 2015. A Study on the Needle Heating of Industrial Lockstitch Sewing Machine. PhD Thesis, Technical University of Liberec, Liberec, Czech Republic, 137.
• 28. Balaji, C., Srinivasan, B., Gedupudi, S. 2020. Heat Transfer Engineering: Fundamentals and Techniques. Academic Press, 438.