Geri Dönüşüm Pamuk Karışımlı İpliklerden Üretilen Denim Kumaşların Performans Özelliklerinin İncelenmesi
Yıl 2023,
, 275 - 285, 15.05.2023
Gökhan Alp
,
Nida Yıldırım
,
Mehmet Kertmen
,
Hüseyin Türksoy
Öz
Hızlı moda döngüsü ve kısa kullanım ömrüne sahip düşük maliyetli tekstil ürünleri, tekstil atık miktarının artmasına sebebiyet vermiştir. Buna bağlı olarak tekstil endüstrisinin sürdürülebilir gelişimi için, katı tekstil atıklarının makul bir şekilde yönetimi zorunlu hale gelmiştir. Çalışmada farklı oranlarda geri dönüşüm pamuk (r-COT) ve pamuk (COT) harmanlarından (20/80, 35/65, 50/50, 100) Open-End Rotor iplikler üretilmiş ve ipliklerin özellikleri (kütlesel düzgünsüzlük, Uster tüylülük, hata indeksi, kopma mukavemeti ve kopma uzaması) karşılaştırmalı olarak incelenmiştir. Yapısında en fazla oranda geri dönüşüm pamuk bulunan ipliğin en yüksek kütlesel düzgünsüzlük, tüylülük ve hata indeksi değerlerine, en düşük Rkm ve kopma uzaması değerlerine sahip olduğu görülmektedir. Çalışmada farklı harmandan üretilen Open-End Rotor atkı ipliklerinden 8 tip denim kumaş üretilmiştir. Üretilen kumaşların tüm analiz sonuçları incelendiğinde, geri dönüşüm pamuk oranı arttığında atkı yönü kopma mukavemeti, çözgü ve atkı yönü yırtılma mukavemeti, bağıl su buharı geçirgenliği, ısıl iletkenlik, ısıl soğurganlık değerlerinin azaldığı, kalınlık değerlerinin arttığı görülmüştür.
Destekleyen Kurum
Türkiye Bilimsel ve Teknik Araştırma Kurumu (TÜBİTAK)
Proje Numarası
No:5200003
Teşekkür
Bu çalışma, Türkiye Bilimsel ve Teknik Araştırma Kurumu (TÜBİTAK)-TEYDEB (No:5200003) tarafından desteklenmiştir.
Kaynakça
- [1] UNCTACD, 2019. Environmental Impact of Fashion Industry, UNCTACD, https://news.un.org/en/story/2019/03/1035161, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
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- [3] Uncu Akı S., Candan C., Nergis B., Önder N.S., 2020. Understanding Denim Recycling: A Quantitative Study with Lifecycle Assessment Methodology, DOI: 10.5772/intechopen.92793
- [4] Amutha, 2017. Environmental impacts of denim, ed. Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, In The Textile Institute Book Series, Sustainability in Denim, Woodhead Publishing, 27-48, DOI: 10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00002-2.
- [5] Fidan Ş., Aydoğan E.K., Uzal N., 2021. An Integrated Life Cycle Assessment Approach for Denim Fabric Production Using Recycled Cotton Fibers and Combined Heat and Power Plant, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 287, 125439, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125439
- [6] LeBlanc R., 2019. Textile Recycling Facts and Figures. https://www. thebalancesmb.com/textile-recycling-facts-and-figures-2878122, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
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- [8] Stanescu, M.D. 2021. State of The Art of Post-Consumer Textile Waste Upcycling to Reach The Zero Waste Milestone. Environment Science Pollution Research, 28, 14253–14270 DOI: 10.1007/s11356-021-12416-9
- [9] Rani S., Jamal Z., 2018. Recycling of Textiles Waste for Environmental Protection. International Journal of Home Science, 4(1):164–168.
- [10] Fidan Ş., Aydoğan E.K., Uzal N., 2021. An Integrated Life Cycle Assessment Approach for Denim Fabric Production Using Recycled Cotton Fibers and Combined Heat and Power Plant, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 287, 125439, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125439.
- [11] Meng, X., Fan, W., Wan Mahari, W.A., Ge, S., Xia, C., Wu, F., Han, L., Wang, S., Zhang, M., Hu, Z., Ma, N.L., Van Le, Q., Lam, S.S., 2021. Production of Three-Dimensional Fiber Needle-Punching Composites From Denim Waste for Utilization as Furniture Materials, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 281,125321,DOI:10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125321.
- [12] Silva T. L., Cazetta A. L., Souza P.S.C., Zhang T., Asefa T., Almeida V. C., 2018. Mesoporous Activated Carbon Fibers Synthesized From Denim Fabric Waste: Efficient Adsorbents for Removal of Textile Dye From Aqueous Solutions, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 171, 482-490, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.034.
- [13] Esteve-Turrillas F., Guardia M., 2017. Environmental Impact of Recover Cotton in Textile Industry, Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 116, DOI: 10.1016/J.RESCONREC.2016.09.034
- [14] Downey L., A Short History of Denim,https://www.levistrauss.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/A-Short-History-of-Denim2.pdf, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
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- [16] Textile Exchange, 2020. Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report, https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-Material-Market-Report_2020.pdf, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
- [17] Haule L.V., Carr C.M., Rigout M., 2016, Investigation into The Supramolecular Properties of Fibres Regenerated From Cotton Based Waste Garments, Carbohydrate Polymers, 144, 131-139, DOI: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2016.02.054.
- [18] Ekrami, E., Dadashian, F. & Soleimani, M., 2014. Waste Cotton Fibers Based Activated Carbon: Optimization of Process and Product Characterization. Fibers and Polymers, 15, 1855–1864 DOI: 10.1007/s12221-014-1855-7
- [19] Wanassi B., Ben Hassen M., Azouz B., 2016. Value-Added Waste Cotton Yarn: Optimization of Recycling Process and Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers. Industrial Crops and Products, 87:27–32.
- [20] Moazzem S., Crossin E., Daver F., Wang L., 2021. Assessing Environmental Impact Reduction Opportunities Through Life Cycle Assessment of Apparel Products, Sustainable Production and Consumption, Volume 28, , 663-674, DOI: 10.1016/j.spc.2021.06.015.
- [21] Hasani, H., Semnani, D., Tabatabaei, S. 2010. Determining The Optimum Spinning Conditions to Produce The Rotor Yarns from Cotton Wastes. Industria Textila, 61: 259–264.
- [22] Kaplan S., Göktepe Ö., 2006. Investigation into Navel Selection for Rotor Spinning Machine Using Cotton Waste, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 14(3):57.
- [23] Yilmaz D, Yelkovan S, Tirak Y. 2017. Comparison of The Effects of Different Cotton Fibre Wastes on Different Yarn Types. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25, 4(124): 19-30. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0010.2340
- [24] Wang H., Memon H., Abro R., Shah A., 2020. Sustainable Approach for Mélange Yarn Manufacturers By Recycling Dyed Fibre Waste. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 28, 3(141): 18-22. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.9013
- [25] Halimi M.T, Ben Hassen M., Sakli F. 2008. Cotton Waste Recycling: Quantitative and Qualitative Assessment, Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 52(5):785-791.
- [26] Khan K.R, Hossain M.M, Sarker R.C, 2015. Statistical Analyses And Predicting The Properties of Cotton/Waste Blended Open-End Rotor Yarn Using Taguchi OA Design, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 4(2):27-35. DOI: 10.5923/j.textile.20150402.01
- [27] Wanassi B., Azzouz B., Ben Hassen M., 2015. Recycling of Post-Industrial Cotton Wastes: Quality and Rotor Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers, International Journal of Advanced Research, 3 (6): 94-103.
- [28] Wanassi B., Ben Hassen M., Azouz B., 2016. Value-Added Waste Cotton Yarn: Optimization of Recycling Process And Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers. Industrial Crops and Products, 87:27–32.
- [29] Ütebay B., Çelik P., Çay A., 2019. Effects of Cotton Textile Waste Properties on Recycled Fibre Quality, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 222:29-35. DOI. 10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.033
- [30] Radhakrishnan S., Kumar S., 2018. Recycled Cotton from Denim Cut Waste, In book: sustainable innovations in recycled textiles, DOI: 10.1007/978-981-10-8515-4_3
- [31] Kurtoǧlu Necef Ö., Seventekin N., Pamuk M., 2013. A Study on Recycling The Fabric Scraps in Apparel Manufacturing Industry, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 23(3):286-289. DOI. 10.13140/RG.2.2.16006.40009
- [32] Awgichew D., Sakthivel S., Solomon E., Bayu A., Legese R., Asfaw D., Bogale M., Aduna A., Kumar S.S., 2021, Experimental Study and Effect on Recycled Fibers Blended with Rotor/OE Yarns for the Production of Handloom Fabrics and Their Properties, Hindawi Advances in Materials Science and Engineering Volume 2021, DOI: 10.1155/2021/4334632
- [33] Özdil N., Özçelik G., 2006, Kumaşlarda Yırtılma Mukavemeti Test Yöntemlerinin Karşılaştırılması Üzerine Bir Çalışma, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 3/2006, 174-179.
- [34] Turan R. B., Okur A., 2015, Kumaşlarda Hava Geçirgenliği, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 72, 16-25.
- [35] Marmaralı A., Kadoglu H., Oglakcioglu N., Celik P., Blaga M., Ursache M., Loghin C., 2009. Thermal Comfort Propertıes of Some New Yarns Generatıon Knitted Fabrics, Autex World Textile Conference, Izmir, Turkey. 26-28 May, Izmir.
- [36] Kaynak H.K., Çelik H.İ., 2018, Thermophysiological Comfort and Performance Properties of Knitted Fabrics Produced from Different Spinning Technologies, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 109(4): 536.
- [37] Küçükali Öztürk M., Nergi B., Candan C., 2010, A Study of Wicking Properties of Cotton-Acrylic Yarns And Knitted Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 81(3): 324.
- [38] Das B., Das A., Kothari V. K., Fangueiro R., De Araújo M., 2009, Studies on moisture transmission properties of PV-blended fabrics, Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(7): 588-597.
- [39] Aruchamy K., P. Subramani S., Palaniappan S.K., Pal S.K., Mylsamy B., Chinnasamy V., 2020, Effect of Blend Ratio on The Thermal Comfort Characteristics of Cotton/Bamboo Blended Fabrics, Journal of Natural Fibers, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2020.1731903
- [40] Nayak, R., Kanesalingam, S., Houshyar, S., Wang, L., Padhye, R., Vijayan, A., 2018, Evaluation of Thermal, Moisture Management and Sensorial Comfort Properties of Superabsorbent Polyacrylate Fabrics for The Next-To-Skin Layer In Firefighters’ Protective Clothing, Textile Research Journal, 88(9):1077–1088.
- [41] Marmaralı A., Oğlakcıoğlu N., 2013. Giysilerde Isıl Konfor, 11. Ulusal Tesisat Mühendisliği Kongresi, İzmir, 1957-1963.
Investigation of Performance Properties of Denim Fabrics Produced from Recycled Cotton Blended Yarns
Yıl 2023,
, 275 - 285, 15.05.2023
Gökhan Alp
,
Nida Yıldırım
,
Mehmet Kertmen
,
Hüseyin Türksoy
Öz
Fast fashion cycle and cheap textile products with a short lifespan have led to an increase in the amount of textile waste. Accordingly, reasonable management of solid textile wastes has become imperative for the sustainable development of the textile industry. In the study, Open-End Rotor yarns were produced from recycled cotton (r-COT) and virgin cotton (COT) blends at different rates (20/80, 35/65, 50/50, 100) and the properties of the yarns (unevenness, hairiness, imperfection index, breaking strength and breaking elongation) were investigated comparatively. It is seen that the yarn with the highest percentage of recycled cotton in its structure has the highest unevenness, hairiness and imperfection index values, and the lowest Rkm and breaking elongation values. 8 types of denim fabrics were produced from Open-End Rotor weft yarns produced from different blends in the study. When the analysis results of the fabrics produced within the scope of the study were examined, it was observed that when the recycled cotton ratio increased, the weft direction breaking strength, warp and weft direction tearing strength, relative water vapor permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal absorbtivity values decreased and the thickness values increased.
Proje Numarası
No:5200003
Kaynakça
- [1] UNCTACD, 2019. Environmental Impact of Fashion Industry, UNCTACD, https://news.un.org/en/story/2019/03/1035161, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
- [2] Shamsuzzaman M., Kashem M.A., Sayem A.S.M., Khan A.M., Shamsuddin S.M., Islam M.M., 2021. Quantifying Environmental Sustainability of Denim Garments Washing Factories Through Effluent Analysis: A Case Study in Bangladesh, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 290, , 125740, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125740
- [3] Uncu Akı S., Candan C., Nergis B., Önder N.S., 2020. Understanding Denim Recycling: A Quantitative Study with Lifecycle Assessment Methodology, DOI: 10.5772/intechopen.92793
- [4] Amutha, 2017. Environmental impacts of denim, ed. Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, In The Textile Institute Book Series, Sustainability in Denim, Woodhead Publishing, 27-48, DOI: 10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00002-2.
- [5] Fidan Ş., Aydoğan E.K., Uzal N., 2021. An Integrated Life Cycle Assessment Approach for Denim Fabric Production Using Recycled Cotton Fibers and Combined Heat and Power Plant, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 287, 125439, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125439
- [6] LeBlanc R., 2019. Textile Recycling Facts and Figures. https://www. thebalancesmb.com/textile-recycling-facts-and-figures-2878122, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
- [7] Shirvanimoghaddam, K. Motamed, B. Ramakrishna, S. Naebe, M. 2020. Death by waste: Fashion and textile circular economy case, Science of the Total Environment, 718, 137317, DOI: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.137317
- [8] Stanescu, M.D. 2021. State of The Art of Post-Consumer Textile Waste Upcycling to Reach The Zero Waste Milestone. Environment Science Pollution Research, 28, 14253–14270 DOI: 10.1007/s11356-021-12416-9
- [9] Rani S., Jamal Z., 2018. Recycling of Textiles Waste for Environmental Protection. International Journal of Home Science, 4(1):164–168.
- [10] Fidan Ş., Aydoğan E.K., Uzal N., 2021. An Integrated Life Cycle Assessment Approach for Denim Fabric Production Using Recycled Cotton Fibers and Combined Heat and Power Plant, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 287, 125439, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125439.
- [11] Meng, X., Fan, W., Wan Mahari, W.A., Ge, S., Xia, C., Wu, F., Han, L., Wang, S., Zhang, M., Hu, Z., Ma, N.L., Van Le, Q., Lam, S.S., 2021. Production of Three-Dimensional Fiber Needle-Punching Composites From Denim Waste for Utilization as Furniture Materials, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 281,125321,DOI:10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125321.
- [12] Silva T. L., Cazetta A. L., Souza P.S.C., Zhang T., Asefa T., Almeida V. C., 2018. Mesoporous Activated Carbon Fibers Synthesized From Denim Fabric Waste: Efficient Adsorbents for Removal of Textile Dye From Aqueous Solutions, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 171, 482-490, DOI: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.034.
- [13] Esteve-Turrillas F., Guardia M., 2017. Environmental Impact of Recover Cotton in Textile Industry, Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 116, DOI: 10.1016/J.RESCONREC.2016.09.034
- [14] Downey L., A Short History of Denim,https://www.levistrauss.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/A-Short-History-of-Denim2.pdf, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
- [15] Villarreal A., Goyal C. R., 2021, Life Cycle Assessment of Cotton Yarns for IKEA, , KTH Royal Institute Of Technology School Of Architecture And The Built Environment, Degree of Master, 57 p., Stockholm.
- [16] Textile Exchange, 2020. Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report, https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-Material-Market-Report_2020.pdf, (Erişim Tarihi: 25.11.2021).
- [17] Haule L.V., Carr C.M., Rigout M., 2016, Investigation into The Supramolecular Properties of Fibres Regenerated From Cotton Based Waste Garments, Carbohydrate Polymers, 144, 131-139, DOI: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2016.02.054.
- [18] Ekrami, E., Dadashian, F. & Soleimani, M., 2014. Waste Cotton Fibers Based Activated Carbon: Optimization of Process and Product Characterization. Fibers and Polymers, 15, 1855–1864 DOI: 10.1007/s12221-014-1855-7
- [19] Wanassi B., Ben Hassen M., Azouz B., 2016. Value-Added Waste Cotton Yarn: Optimization of Recycling Process and Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers. Industrial Crops and Products, 87:27–32.
- [20] Moazzem S., Crossin E., Daver F., Wang L., 2021. Assessing Environmental Impact Reduction Opportunities Through Life Cycle Assessment of Apparel Products, Sustainable Production and Consumption, Volume 28, , 663-674, DOI: 10.1016/j.spc.2021.06.015.
- [21] Hasani, H., Semnani, D., Tabatabaei, S. 2010. Determining The Optimum Spinning Conditions to Produce The Rotor Yarns from Cotton Wastes. Industria Textila, 61: 259–264.
- [22] Kaplan S., Göktepe Ö., 2006. Investigation into Navel Selection for Rotor Spinning Machine Using Cotton Waste, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 14(3):57.
- [23] Yilmaz D, Yelkovan S, Tirak Y. 2017. Comparison of The Effects of Different Cotton Fibre Wastes on Different Yarn Types. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25, 4(124): 19-30. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0010.2340
- [24] Wang H., Memon H., Abro R., Shah A., 2020. Sustainable Approach for Mélange Yarn Manufacturers By Recycling Dyed Fibre Waste. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 28, 3(141): 18-22. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.9013
- [25] Halimi M.T, Ben Hassen M., Sakli F. 2008. Cotton Waste Recycling: Quantitative and Qualitative Assessment, Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 52(5):785-791.
- [26] Khan K.R, Hossain M.M, Sarker R.C, 2015. Statistical Analyses And Predicting The Properties of Cotton/Waste Blended Open-End Rotor Yarn Using Taguchi OA Design, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 4(2):27-35. DOI: 10.5923/j.textile.20150402.01
- [27] Wanassi B., Azzouz B., Ben Hassen M., 2015. Recycling of Post-Industrial Cotton Wastes: Quality and Rotor Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers, International Journal of Advanced Research, 3 (6): 94-103.
- [28] Wanassi B., Ben Hassen M., Azouz B., 2016. Value-Added Waste Cotton Yarn: Optimization of Recycling Process And Spinning of Reclaimed Fibers. Industrial Crops and Products, 87:27–32.
- [29] Ütebay B., Çelik P., Çay A., 2019. Effects of Cotton Textile Waste Properties on Recycled Fibre Quality, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 222:29-35. DOI. 10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.033
- [30] Radhakrishnan S., Kumar S., 2018. Recycled Cotton from Denim Cut Waste, In book: sustainable innovations in recycled textiles, DOI: 10.1007/978-981-10-8515-4_3
- [31] Kurtoǧlu Necef Ö., Seventekin N., Pamuk M., 2013. A Study on Recycling The Fabric Scraps in Apparel Manufacturing Industry, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 23(3):286-289. DOI. 10.13140/RG.2.2.16006.40009
- [32] Awgichew D., Sakthivel S., Solomon E., Bayu A., Legese R., Asfaw D., Bogale M., Aduna A., Kumar S.S., 2021, Experimental Study and Effect on Recycled Fibers Blended with Rotor/OE Yarns for the Production of Handloom Fabrics and Their Properties, Hindawi Advances in Materials Science and Engineering Volume 2021, DOI: 10.1155/2021/4334632
- [33] Özdil N., Özçelik G., 2006, Kumaşlarda Yırtılma Mukavemeti Test Yöntemlerinin Karşılaştırılması Üzerine Bir Çalışma, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 3/2006, 174-179.
- [34] Turan R. B., Okur A., 2015, Kumaşlarda Hava Geçirgenliği, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 72, 16-25.
- [35] Marmaralı A., Kadoglu H., Oglakcioglu N., Celik P., Blaga M., Ursache M., Loghin C., 2009. Thermal Comfort Propertıes of Some New Yarns Generatıon Knitted Fabrics, Autex World Textile Conference, Izmir, Turkey. 26-28 May, Izmir.
- [36] Kaynak H.K., Çelik H.İ., 2018, Thermophysiological Comfort and Performance Properties of Knitted Fabrics Produced from Different Spinning Technologies, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 109(4): 536.
- [37] Küçükali Öztürk M., Nergi B., Candan C., 2010, A Study of Wicking Properties of Cotton-Acrylic Yarns And Knitted Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 81(3): 324.
- [38] Das B., Das A., Kothari V. K., Fangueiro R., De Araújo M., 2009, Studies on moisture transmission properties of PV-blended fabrics, Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(7): 588-597.
- [39] Aruchamy K., P. Subramani S., Palaniappan S.K., Pal S.K., Mylsamy B., Chinnasamy V., 2020, Effect of Blend Ratio on The Thermal Comfort Characteristics of Cotton/Bamboo Blended Fabrics, Journal of Natural Fibers, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2020.1731903
- [40] Nayak, R., Kanesalingam, S., Houshyar, S., Wang, L., Padhye, R., Vijayan, A., 2018, Evaluation of Thermal, Moisture Management and Sensorial Comfort Properties of Superabsorbent Polyacrylate Fabrics for The Next-To-Skin Layer In Firefighters’ Protective Clothing, Textile Research Journal, 88(9):1077–1088.
- [41] Marmaralı A., Oğlakcıoğlu N., 2013. Giysilerde Isıl Konfor, 11. Ulusal Tesisat Mühendisliği Kongresi, İzmir, 1957-1963.