INDIGO DYED AFRICAN TEXTILES PRODUCED WITH RESIST DYEING AND PRINTING TECHNIQUES

Yıl 2022, Cilt: 12 Sayı: 1, 153 - 168, 22.06.2022

Ülker Tatlıdil Leyla Öğüt

https://doi.org/10.20488/sanattasarim.1133821

Öz

Natural resources that give blue color have been used to color textiles by various communities
throughout history. Before the development and widespread use of synthetic dyestuffs, various African
communities, as well as the other communities, have used different indigo resources to dye their textiles blue.
In this study, regardless of the source of the natural indigo dye, African textiles dyed in blue with the resist
technique were examined and it was tried to reveal which reserve techniques and in which regions these
textiles were produced. In the study, it is aimed to eliminate the deficiencies in the literature by making a
detailed presentation and classification of indigo dyed resist textiles produced in Africa. It can be seen that
resist dyeing techniques are used in most of the textiles colored with indigo dyes. These are made in a wide
range of techniques from physical resist to chemical resist in various communities.
According to the findings; resist dyeing technique is a traditional textile dyeing option that is widely applied
in Africa, but resist dyeing with indigo is practiced mostly in West African countries. Although there are data
regarding the indigo dyeing with resist technique is done in various regions of Africa besides West Africa,
it is seen that these are not traditional dyeing applications but rather produced with synthetic dyes for
tourism purposes. It is observed that three types of natural indigo sources are used in textiles colored with
natural indigo. In addition, there are examples where the appearance of a particular resist types imitated
with different resist techniques in order to conceal the original technique. Therefore, determining the type
of resist technique done by using indigo, which has a rich variety in Africa, requires both theoretical and
applied work in this field.

Anahtar Kelimeler

African Textiles, Resist Dyeing, Resist Printing, Indigo Dyeing, Tie-dye

REZERVE BOYA VE BASKI TEKNİKLERİ İLE ÜRETİLEN İNDİGO BOYALI AFRİKA TEKSTİLLERİ

Öz

Mavi renk veren doğal kaynaklar tarih boyunca çeşitli topluluklar tarafından tekstillerin
renklendirmesinde kullanılmıştır. Sentetik boyar maddelerin gelişmesi ve yaygınlaşmasından önce Afrika
toplulukları da tekstilleri maviye boyamak amacıyla farklı indigo kaynaklarına başvurmuşlardır. Bu çalışmada
doğal indigo boyanın kaynağına bakılmaksızın rezerve tekniği ile mavi renge boyanmış Afrika tekstilleri
incelenmiş ve bu tekstillerin hangi rezerve teknikleriyle, hangi bölgelerde üretildikleri ortaya konulmaya
çalışılmıştır. Çalışmada Afrika’da üretilen indigo boyalı rezerve tekstillerin ayrıntılı bir sunumu ve sınıflandırması
yapılarak alanyazında bu konudaki eksikliklerin giderilmesi amaçlanmıştır.
İndigo boyalar ile renklendirilen tekstillerin çoğunda rezerve boyama tekniklerinin kullanıldığı görülmektedir.
Bunlar fiziksel rezerveden kimyasal rezerveye kadar çeşitli şekillerde farklı topluluklarda uygulanmaktadır.
Elde edilen bulgulara göre; rezerve tekniği Afrika’da yaygın olarak görülen geleneksel bir tekstil boyama
tekniğidir ancak indigo ile rezerve boyama tekniği yoğun olarak Batı Afrika ülkelerinde uygulanmaktadır.
Ulaşılan kaynaklarda Batı Afrika haricinde rezerve tekniği ile indigo boyama yapıldığına dair veriler bulunsa
da bu uygulamaların geleneksel uygulamalar değil daha çok turizm amacıyla, sentetik boyalarla gerçekleştirilen
üretimler olduğu, tekstillerde genellikle üç çeşit indigo kaynağının kullanıldığı ve bazen asıl tekniği gizlemek
amacıyla farklı rezerve tekniklerinin görünüşünün taklit edildiği bilgilerine rastlanmıştır. Bu bağlamda Afrika’da
zengin çeşitliliğe sahip indigo rezerve boyamaların tekniklerini tespit etmenin hem teorik hem de uygulamalı
çalışmayı gerektirdiğini ifade etmek mümkün olmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Afrika Tekstilleri, Rezerve Boyama, Rezerve Baskı, İndigo Boyama, Bağlama Boyama

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