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ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 30 Sayı: 132, 281 - 288, 31.12.2023
https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318

Öz

Kumaşların birleştirilmesinde en sık kullanılan yöntem olan dikiş yoluyla birleştirme işlemi, kumaşların çeşitli özelliklerinde değişimlere sebep olmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, günlük giysilerde sık kullanılan üç farklı kumaş yapısının (interlok, 1x1 rib ve pike) dikim sonrasında bazı konfor özelliklerinin değişimi incelenmiştir. Bu amaç kapsamında, belirlenen kumaşlar hazır giyim üretiminde sıklıkla tercih edilen üç farklı dikiş ipliği (%100 pamuk, %100 kesikli PES ve PES-PES özlü iplik) ile dikilmiştir. Dikilen numunelerin dikim öncesi ve sonrasındaki durumlarında hava geçirgenliği, dökümlülük katsayısı ve elastikiyet özelliklerindeki değişimler ele alınmıştır. Ayrıca dikilmiş numunelerin dikiş mukavemeti ve dikiş büzgüsü özellikleri de incelenmiş, kumaş yapısı ile dikim işleminin performansı arasındaki ilişki de irdelenmiştir. Sonuçlar incelendiğinde dikim bölgesinde hava geçirgenliği, dökümlülük ve elastikiyet özelliklerinde azalma olduğu gözlenmiştir. Hava geçirgenliği ve elastikiyet değerlerindeki en büyük azalma pamuk ipliği ile gerçekleştirilen dikişlerde gözlenmiştir. Polyester iplik ise daha iyi dökümlülük değerleri vermiştir. İnterlok kumaşta yapılan dikişin en yüksek mukavemete ve büzgüye sahip olduğu saptanmıştır. Dikiş ipliği açısından ise PES-PES özlü dikiş ipliği en iyi mukavemet ve en yüksek büzgüye sahiptir. Çalışmada elde edilen sonuçlar dikim işleminin konforu etkileyen bazı temel kumaş özellikleri üzerinde önemli ölçüde etkili olduğunu göstermektedir. Bunun yanı sıra, kullanılan dikiş ipliği cinsinin de bu özellikleri etkilediği saptanmıştır.

Kaynakça

  • 1. McLoughlin, J., Mitchell, A., (2015), Fabric Finishing: Joining Fabrics Using Stitched Seams, 379-411, Textiles and Fashion Materials, Design and Technology, Sinclair, R. (Ed.) Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, 845p.
  • 2. Gribaa, S., Amar, S.B., Dogui, A., (2006), Influence of Sewing Parameters upon the Tensile Behavior of Textile Assembly, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18, 4, 235-246.
  • 3. Dias, T., Delkumburewatte, G.B., (2007), The Influence of Moisture Content on the Thermal Conductivity of A Knitted Structure, Measurement Science and Technology, 18, 5, 1304-1314.
  • 4. Kamalha, E., Zeng, Y., Mwasiagi, J.I., Kyatuheire, S., (2013), The Comfort Dimension; A Review of Perception in Clothing, Journal of Sensory Studies, 28, 423-444.
  • 5. Maanvizhi, M., Prakash, C., Rameshbabu, V., (2020), Effect of Stitch Density and Stitch Type on the Moisture Management Properties of Seams for High Active Sportswear Application, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 28, 6, 72-78.
  • 6. Daukantiene, V., Vadeike, G., (2018), Evaluation of the Air Permeability of Elastic Knitted Fabrics and Their Assemblies, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30, 6, 839-853.
  • 7. Beaudette, E., Park, H., (2017), Impact of Seam Types on Thermal Properties of Athletic Bodywear, Textile Research Journal, 87, 9, 1052-1059.
  • 8. Oğlakcıoğlu, N., İlleez, A.A., Erdoğan, M.Ç., Marmaralı, A., Güner, M., (2013), Bisikletçi Giysilerinde Dikim İşleminin Isıl Konfor Özelliklerine Etkisi, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 20, 90, 32-41.
  • 9. Erayman Yüksel, Y., Korkmaz, Y., (2019), Investigation of Sewing and Water Repellent Performance of Outdoor Clothing, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 31, 5, 693-704.
  • 10. Mukhopadhyay, A., Midha, V., Preet, A., (2020), Impact of Seam on Liquid Transmission Behaviour of Multi-Layered Emsembles Using Sweat and Water, Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 45, 457-463.
  • 11. Ibrahim, N.A., Gouda, M., Husseiny, Sh. M., El-Gamal, A.R., Mahrous, F., (2009), UV-Protecting and Antibacterial Finishing of Cotton Knits, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 112, 3589-3596.
  • 12. Chen, C., Chen, L., Wu, Z., Guo, H., Yu, W., Du, Z., Wang, Z.L., (2020), 3D Double-faced Interlock Fabric Tribolecetic Nanogenerator for Bio-motion Energy Harvesting and as Self-powered Strecthing and 3D Tactile Sensors, Materials Today, 32, 84-93.
  • 13. Assefa, A., Govindan, N., (2020), Physical Properties of Single Jersey Derivative Knitted Cotton Fabric with Tuck and Miss Stitches, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 15, 1-10.
  • 14. Ertekin, G., Marmaralı, A., (2011), Askı ve Atlamanın Düz Örgü Kumaşların Isıl Konfor Özelliklerine Etkileri, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 18, 83, 21-26.
  • 15. Daukantiene, V., Vadeike, G., (2018), Evaluation of the Air Permeability of Elastic Knitted Fabrics and Their Assemblies, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30, 6, 839-853.
  • 16. Bozdoğan, F., (2010), Fiziksel Tekstil Muayeneleri (Kumaş Testleri), E.Ü. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını.
  • 17. Li, Y., Dai, X.Q., (2006), Fabrics, Biomechanical Engineering of Textiles and Clothing, 199-222.
  • 18. Matusiak, M., (2017), Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on Their Drapeability, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25, 1, 56-64.
  • 19. Jevsnik, S., Zunic-Lojen, D., (2007), Drape Behaviour of Seamed Fabrics, Fibers and Polymers, 8, 5, 550-557.
  • 20. Sharma, K.R., Behera, B.K., Roedel, H., Schwnk, A., (2005), Effect of Sewing and Fusing of İnterlining on Drape Behaviour of Suiting Fabrics, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17, 2, 75-90.
  • 21. Uyanik, S., Degirmenci, Z., Topalbekiroglu, M., Geyik, F., (2016), Examining the Relation Between the Number and Location of Tuck Stitches and Bursting Strength in Circular Knitted Fabric, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 24, 1(115), 114-119.
  • 22. Eryürük, S.H., Kalaoğlu, F., (2010), The Effects of Different Amounts of Lubricant Application on the Sewing Thread Performance Properties, Textile Research Journal, 80,12, 1232-1242.
  • 23. Yıldız, E.Z., (2018), Farklı Dikim Parametreleri Kullanılarak Dikim Kalitesinin Modellenmesi, Doktora Tezi, Ege Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, İzmir.
  • 24. Behera, B.K., Sharma, S., (1998), Low-Stress Behaviour and Sewability of Suiting and Shirting Fabrics, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 23, 233-241.
  • 25. Thanaa, M.A.S., (2013), Interaction Between Sewing Thread Size and Stitch Density and its Effects on the Seam Quality of Wool Fabrics, Journal of Applied Sciences Research, 9, 8, 4548-4557.
  • 26. Malek, S., Jaouachi, B., Khedher, F., Ben Said, S., Cheikhrouhou, M., (2017), Influence of Some Sewing Parameters upon the Sewing Efficiency of Denim Fabrics, The Journal of Textile Institute, 108, 12, 2073-2085.
  • 27. Fan, J., Leeuwner, W., (1998), The Performance of Sewing Threads with Respect to Seam Appearance, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 89, 1, 142- 154.
  • 28. Kechi, A., (2014), Effects of Dynamic Loading of Sewing Process and Viscoelastic Property of Threads on Seam Puckering, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 8, 4, 1-17.
  • 29. Sülar, V., Meşegül, C., Kefsiz, H., Seki, Y., (2015), A Comparative Study on Seam Performance of Cotton and Polyester Woven Fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 106, 1, 19-30.

INVESTIGATION OF THE EFFECT OF SEWING PROCESS ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 30 Sayı: 132, 281 - 288, 31.12.2023
https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318

Öz

Sewing, the most common method for assembling fabrics, leads to changes in various fabric properties. Variations in some comfort characteristics of three fabric structures (interlock, 1x1 rib, and piquet) often used in casual clothes were investigated after the sewing process. For this purpose, samples were sewn with three different sewing threads (100% cotton, 100% staple PES and PES-PES core-spun) commonly used in the apparel industry. Changes in air permeability, drapeability coefficient, and elasticity properties of the samples were examined after sewing. Furthermore, seam strength and seam pucker characteristics of the sewn samples were determined, and relations between fabric structure and sewing performance were considered.

Results presented that decreases in air permeability, drapeability, and elasticity characteristics were observed at seam areas. 100% cotton sewing thread resulted in the largest decrease in air permeability and elasticity values, whereas 100% staple PES thread had the best drapeability results. Seams on interlock fabric had the highest seam strength and seam pucker, while PES-PES core-spun thread provided the best seam strength and highest seam pucker. Results demonstrated that the sewing process affected some fundamental fabric properties regarding comfort. Moreover, sewing thread type affected these characteristics, as well.

Kaynakça

  • 1. McLoughlin, J., Mitchell, A., (2015), Fabric Finishing: Joining Fabrics Using Stitched Seams, 379-411, Textiles and Fashion Materials, Design and Technology, Sinclair, R. (Ed.) Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, 845p.
  • 2. Gribaa, S., Amar, S.B., Dogui, A., (2006), Influence of Sewing Parameters upon the Tensile Behavior of Textile Assembly, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18, 4, 235-246.
  • 3. Dias, T., Delkumburewatte, G.B., (2007), The Influence of Moisture Content on the Thermal Conductivity of A Knitted Structure, Measurement Science and Technology, 18, 5, 1304-1314.
  • 4. Kamalha, E., Zeng, Y., Mwasiagi, J.I., Kyatuheire, S., (2013), The Comfort Dimension; A Review of Perception in Clothing, Journal of Sensory Studies, 28, 423-444.
  • 5. Maanvizhi, M., Prakash, C., Rameshbabu, V., (2020), Effect of Stitch Density and Stitch Type on the Moisture Management Properties of Seams for High Active Sportswear Application, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 28, 6, 72-78.
  • 6. Daukantiene, V., Vadeike, G., (2018), Evaluation of the Air Permeability of Elastic Knitted Fabrics and Their Assemblies, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30, 6, 839-853.
  • 7. Beaudette, E., Park, H., (2017), Impact of Seam Types on Thermal Properties of Athletic Bodywear, Textile Research Journal, 87, 9, 1052-1059.
  • 8. Oğlakcıoğlu, N., İlleez, A.A., Erdoğan, M.Ç., Marmaralı, A., Güner, M., (2013), Bisikletçi Giysilerinde Dikim İşleminin Isıl Konfor Özelliklerine Etkisi, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 20, 90, 32-41.
  • 9. Erayman Yüksel, Y., Korkmaz, Y., (2019), Investigation of Sewing and Water Repellent Performance of Outdoor Clothing, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 31, 5, 693-704.
  • 10. Mukhopadhyay, A., Midha, V., Preet, A., (2020), Impact of Seam on Liquid Transmission Behaviour of Multi-Layered Emsembles Using Sweat and Water, Indian Journal of Fibre&Textile Research, 45, 457-463.
  • 11. Ibrahim, N.A., Gouda, M., Husseiny, Sh. M., El-Gamal, A.R., Mahrous, F., (2009), UV-Protecting and Antibacterial Finishing of Cotton Knits, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 112, 3589-3596.
  • 12. Chen, C., Chen, L., Wu, Z., Guo, H., Yu, W., Du, Z., Wang, Z.L., (2020), 3D Double-faced Interlock Fabric Tribolecetic Nanogenerator for Bio-motion Energy Harvesting and as Self-powered Strecthing and 3D Tactile Sensors, Materials Today, 32, 84-93.
  • 13. Assefa, A., Govindan, N., (2020), Physical Properties of Single Jersey Derivative Knitted Cotton Fabric with Tuck and Miss Stitches, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 15, 1-10.
  • 14. Ertekin, G., Marmaralı, A., (2011), Askı ve Atlamanın Düz Örgü Kumaşların Isıl Konfor Özelliklerine Etkileri, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 18, 83, 21-26.
  • 15. Daukantiene, V., Vadeike, G., (2018), Evaluation of the Air Permeability of Elastic Knitted Fabrics and Their Assemblies, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30, 6, 839-853.
  • 16. Bozdoğan, F., (2010), Fiziksel Tekstil Muayeneleri (Kumaş Testleri), E.Ü. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını.
  • 17. Li, Y., Dai, X.Q., (2006), Fabrics, Biomechanical Engineering of Textiles and Clothing, 199-222.
  • 18. Matusiak, M., (2017), Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on Their Drapeability, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 25, 1, 56-64.
  • 19. Jevsnik, S., Zunic-Lojen, D., (2007), Drape Behaviour of Seamed Fabrics, Fibers and Polymers, 8, 5, 550-557.
  • 20. Sharma, K.R., Behera, B.K., Roedel, H., Schwnk, A., (2005), Effect of Sewing and Fusing of İnterlining on Drape Behaviour of Suiting Fabrics, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17, 2, 75-90.
  • 21. Uyanik, S., Degirmenci, Z., Topalbekiroglu, M., Geyik, F., (2016), Examining the Relation Between the Number and Location of Tuck Stitches and Bursting Strength in Circular Knitted Fabric, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 24, 1(115), 114-119.
  • 22. Eryürük, S.H., Kalaoğlu, F., (2010), The Effects of Different Amounts of Lubricant Application on the Sewing Thread Performance Properties, Textile Research Journal, 80,12, 1232-1242.
  • 23. Yıldız, E.Z., (2018), Farklı Dikim Parametreleri Kullanılarak Dikim Kalitesinin Modellenmesi, Doktora Tezi, Ege Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, İzmir.
  • 24. Behera, B.K., Sharma, S., (1998), Low-Stress Behaviour and Sewability of Suiting and Shirting Fabrics, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 23, 233-241.
  • 25. Thanaa, M.A.S., (2013), Interaction Between Sewing Thread Size and Stitch Density and its Effects on the Seam Quality of Wool Fabrics, Journal of Applied Sciences Research, 9, 8, 4548-4557.
  • 26. Malek, S., Jaouachi, B., Khedher, F., Ben Said, S., Cheikhrouhou, M., (2017), Influence of Some Sewing Parameters upon the Sewing Efficiency of Denim Fabrics, The Journal of Textile Institute, 108, 12, 2073-2085.
  • 27. Fan, J., Leeuwner, W., (1998), The Performance of Sewing Threads with Respect to Seam Appearance, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 89, 1, 142- 154.
  • 28. Kechi, A., (2014), Effects of Dynamic Loading of Sewing Process and Viscoelastic Property of Threads on Seam Puckering, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 8, 4, 1-17.
  • 29. Sülar, V., Meşegül, C., Kefsiz, H., Seki, Y., (2015), A Comparative Study on Seam Performance of Cotton and Polyester Woven Fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 106, 1, 19-30.
Toplam 29 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil Türkçe
Konular Tekstil Kalite Kontrolü, Tekstil Teknolojisi
Bölüm Makaleler
Yazarlar

Berna Cüreklibatır Encan

Esra Zeynep Yıldız

Yayımlanma Tarihi 31 Aralık 2023
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2023 Cilt: 30 Sayı: 132

Kaynak Göster

APA Cüreklibatır Encan, B., & Yıldız, E. Z. (2023). ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ. Tekstil Ve Mühendis, 30(132), 281-288. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318
AMA Cüreklibatır Encan B, Yıldız EZ. ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ. Tekstil ve Mühendis. Aralık 2023;30(132):281-288. doi:10.7216/teksmuh.1318318
Chicago Cüreklibatır Encan, Berna, ve Esra Zeynep Yıldız. “ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ”. Tekstil Ve Mühendis 30, sy. 132 (Aralık 2023): 281-88. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318.
EndNote Cüreklibatır Encan B, Yıldız EZ (01 Aralık 2023) ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ. Tekstil ve Mühendis 30 132 281–288.
IEEE B. Cüreklibatır Encan ve E. Z. Yıldız, “ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ”, Tekstil ve Mühendis, c. 30, sy. 132, ss. 281–288, 2023, doi: 10.7216/teksmuh.1318318.
ISNAD Cüreklibatır Encan, Berna - Yıldız, Esra Zeynep. “ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ”. Tekstil ve Mühendis 30/132 (Aralık 2023), 281-288. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318.
JAMA Cüreklibatır Encan B, Yıldız EZ. ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ. Tekstil ve Mühendis. 2023;30:281–288.
MLA Cüreklibatır Encan, Berna ve Esra Zeynep Yıldız. “ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ”. Tekstil Ve Mühendis, c. 30, sy. 132, 2023, ss. 281-8, doi:10.7216/teksmuh.1318318.
Vancouver Cüreklibatır Encan B, Yıldız EZ. ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ. Tekstil ve Mühendis. 2023;30(132):281-8.