Lüks Moda Giyim Markalarının Dijital Dönüşümü

Öz

Teknolojinin ve yeni nesillerin, marka mirasına dayanan ürünlerin hızla değişen ihtiyaçlara ve yaşam tarzlarına hitap etme yeteneğini sorguladığı günümüzde lüks markalar, ‘Y Kuşağı’nın ihtiyaç ve beklentilerini karşılamak için marka imajını derinlemesine revize etme ihtiyacına işaret eden ‘yeniden markalaşma’ aşamasından geçiyorlar. Araştırmada; moda sektöründeki kültürel, sosyal, ekonomik, çevresel ve rekabetçi değişimlerin ışığında, lüks markaların hedef kitlelerine nasıl daha iyi yaklaşabileceklerine dair güncel bir bakış açısı sağlayan bir inceleme yapmak hedeflenmiştir. Bu bağlamda makalede dijital dönüşüme erken adapte olan, alanında teknolojik yenilikleri takip edip benimseyen ve lüks moda sektörüne öncülük eden Burberry markası örnek olarak seçilmiş; 2006 yılından beri gerçekleştirdiği dijital dönüşüm stratejisi araştırılmıştır. Balenciaga markasının 2021 Sonbahar/Kış Hazır Giyim Koleksiyon sunumu olan dijital video oyunu konsepti ise dijital ve sürdürülebilirlik vizyonu ile dikkat çekici, fütüristtik bir başka örnek olarak incelenmiştir. Nitel araştırma yöntemi kullanılan makaleye; yönetim danışmanlığı şirketlerinin araştırma raporları, markaların resmî web siteleri ve raporları, gazeteler ve dergilerde çevrimiçi yayınlanan sektörü ilgilendiren makaleler gibi elektronik kaynaklar ve yabancı kitaplar, makaleler, bildiriler kaynak teşkil etmektedir. Yapılan araştırmanın bulgusu olarak, lüks markaların moda tasarım ürünlerinin çok kanallı satışına yönelik geliştirdikleri dijital uygulamalarında; potansiyel hedef kitleleri olarak HENRY (High-Earners-Not-Rich-Yet) kısaltması ile ifade edilen ‘yüksek gelir sahibi olup henüz zengin olmayan’ Y Kuşağı ve yakın gelecekte alım gücüne kavuşacak Z kuşağı tüketicilere odaklandıkları tespit edilmiştir. Sonuç olarak, Dijital Darwinizm döneminde markaların hayatta kalmak için sadece farklı düşünmesi değil, farklı davranması da gerektiği ortaya konulmaktadır. Lüks markaların iletişimlerine ve pazarlama stratejilerine yön verecek, markanın bilgi ve üretimlerinin dijital dönüşümünün sürdürülebileceği ‘inovasyon merkezleri’ne ihtiyaç duyulduğu belirlenmiştir. Zamanının ruhunu anlayan, değişime adapte olabilen, yenilikçi, sosyal açıdan iç görüye, keskin zekaya ve büyük bir bütçeye sahip moda tasarımcıların ve markaların yakın gelecekte çok kanallı perakendecilik ile satış başarılarını sürdürebilecekleri anlaşılmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Moda
• Marka
• Lüks
• Dijital
• Dönüşüm

Digital Transformation of Luxury Clothing Brands

Abstract

New generations and technologies have somehow questioned the ability of products built on a firm’s heritage to address rapidly changing needs and lifestyles. Is that coherent with the heritage and brand images are “re-branding,” which signals the need to profoundly revise the brand image to cater to the most crucial ‘Millennial’ needs and expectations. In keeping with fast-changing trends, demographic growth, technological advances, and dynamic changes in consumer behaviors, the luxury market is experiencing various developments. In the research, In the light of cultural, social, economic, environmental, and competitive changes in the fashion industry, it is aimed to make a review that provides an up-to-date perspective on how luxury brands can better approach their target groups. In this context, in this article, the digital transformation strategy of Burberry brand has been investigated from 2006-2020 period, which has adapted early to digital transformation, follows, and adopts technological innovations in its field and pioneers the luxury fashion industry. The digital video game concept, which is the 2021 Autumn / Winter Ready-to-Wear Collection presentation of the Balenciaga brand, was examined as a remarkable futuristic example with its digital and sustainability vision. To the article using qualitative research method, electronic resources such as research reports of management consultancy companies, reports of brands, official websites of brands, newspapers, magazines, foreign books, articles, and papers are constituting a source. As a result of the research, in the digital applications developed by luxury brands for the multi-channel sales of fashion design products; As their potential target group HENRY, it has been determined that they are focused on Millennium consumers who are "high-income but not rich yet" and Generation Z consumers who will gain purchasing power soon. After all, brands must not only think differently but must behave differently in the era of Digital Darwinism to survive. It has been determined that there is a need for ‘innovation centers’ that will guide the communications and marketing strategies of luxury brands and where the digital transformation of the brand's knowledge and production can be sustained. It is understood that fashion designers and brands who understand the Zeitgeist, can be easily adapted to change, an innovative, socially insightful, sharp intelligence and have a large budget will be able to continue their sales success with multi-channel retailing soon.

Keywords

• Fahion
• Luxury
• Brands
• Dijital
• Transformation

Kaynakça

1. Achille A., Marchessou, S., Nathalie Remy, N. (2018). Luxury in the Age of Digital Darwinism. McKinsey & Company Report. 03.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/luxury-in-the-age-of-digital-darwinism adresinden erişildi.
2. Achille A., Zipser D. (2020). A Perspective for The Luxury-Goods Industry During—And After—Coronavirus. McKinsey & Company Report. 05.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/a-perspective-for-the-luxury-goods-industry-during-and-after-coronavirus adresinden erişildi.
3. Alexandre, E. (2012). Burberry Opens Regent Street Flagship, Vogue Magazine. 14.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/burberry-regent-street-flagship-opens adresinden erişildi.
4. Altuntaş, E., Y. (2018). Dijital Dönüşüm Uygulamalarının Kurumların Marka Değeri Üzerindeki Etkisi, Ege Üniversitesi İletişim Fakültesi Medya ve İletişim Araştırmaları Hakemli E-Dergisi, (2), 1-18. 14.09.2020 tarihinde https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/pub/egemiadergisi/issue/36758/384936 adresinden erişildi.
5. Amed, I. (2010). Getting Immersed in Burberry's 3D Live Stream, Business of Fashion. 25.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/digital-scorecard-burberry-3d-live-stream adresinden erişildi.
6. Amed, I., Berg A. (2020). Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company Report: The State of Fashion 2020 Coronavirus Update. McKinsey & Company Report. 08.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-markets/the-state-of-fashion-2020-coronavirus-update-download-the-report adresinden erişildi.
7. Arienti P. (2019). Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2019 Bridging The Gap Between the Old and The New, Deloitte. 08.09.2020 tarihinde https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ar/Documents/Consumer_and_Industrial_Products/Global-Powers-of-Luxury-Goods-abril-2019.pdf adresinden erişildi.
8. Bain and Company. (2020). Global Personal Luxury Goods Market Set to Contract Between 20 - 35 Percent in 2020. Bain and Company. 08.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.bain.com/about/media-center/press-releases/2020/spring-luxury-report/ adresinden erişildi.

9. Banks N. (2020). Polestar Stars in Balenciaga’s First Virtual Video Game ‘Afterworld’ Set In 2031, Forbes. 10.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.forbes.com/sites/nargessbanks/2020/12/06/polestar-stars-in-balenciagas-first-virtual-runway-videogame-afterworld-set-in-2031/?sh=473c730e1641 adresinden erişildi.
10. Blank, G. & Reisdorf, B.C. (2012): The Participatory Web. Information, Communication & Society, 15:4, 537-554.
11. Berry C. (1994). The Idea of Luxury: A Conceptual and Historical Investigation. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
12. Bullions, P. (1881). A Copious and Critical Latin-English Dictionary: Abridged and Re-arranged, New York: Sheldon and Company, p:554-555. 06.09.2020 tarihinde https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=e7b_LIrftCwC&rdid=book-e7b_LIrftCwC&rdot=1 adresinden erişildi.
13. Bunz M. (2009). Burberry Checks Out Crowdsourcing with The Art of The Trench, The Guardian International Edition. 09.11.2020 tarihinde https://www.theguardian.com/media/pda/2009/nov/09/burberry-art-of-the-trench adresinden erişildi.
14. Balenciaga. (2020). Fall 21 Collection. 10.12.2020 tarihinde https://videogame.balenciaga.com/en/press adresinden erişildi.
15. Balenciaga. (2020). Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow. 10.12.2020 tarihinde https://videogame.balenciaga.com adresinden erişildi.
16. Burberryplc. (2020). Burberry Announces Partnership with Tencent Games' Blockbuster Title Honour of Kings. 07.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.burberryplc.com/en/news/news/corporate/2020/burberry-announces-partnership-with-tencent-games--blockbuster-t.html adresinden erişildi.
17. Burberryplc. (2020). Burberry Takes Over The Selfridges Corner Shop. 07.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.burberryplc.com/en/news/news/corporate/2020/burberry-takes-over-the-selfridges-corner-shop.html adresinden erişildi.
18. Burberryplc. (2020). Burberry Brings Products to Google Search Through Augmented Reality. 07.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.burberryplc.com/en/news/news/corporate/2020/burberry-brings-products-to-google-search-through-augmented-real.html adresinden erişildi.
19. Burberryplc. (2020). Burberry Employees Graduate from Britain’s First In-House Data Academy with Decoded. 07.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.burberryplc.com/en/news/news/corporate/2020/burberry-employees-graduate-from-britain-s-first-in-house-data-a.html adresinden erişildi.
20. Burberry. (2020). The Burberry Spring Summer 2021 Show Experience. 08.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.twitch.tv/videos/747647002 adresinden erişildi. Burberry. (2020). Introducing Burberry Kisses. 05.11.2020 tarihinde https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRiZMVEIhas adresinden erişildi.
21. Centric Digital (2015). Why Your Company Needs a Digital Strategy Team. Centric Digital, p:1-3. 09.11.2020 tarihinde https://centricdigital.com/blog/digital-strategy/why-your-company-needs-a-digital-strategy-team/ adresinden erişildi.
22. Centric Digital (2015). How Burberry Embraced Digital and Transformed into A Leading Luxury Brand. Centric Digital, p: 1-7. 10.11.2020 tarihinde https://centricdigital.com/blog/digital-strategy/digital-transformation-in-traditional-fashion-burberry/ adresinden erişildi.
23. Cotrim M. (2018). Burberry Acoustic: Moda, Do Tangível Ao Intangível, Maio 2018 vol. 4 num. 3 - Colóquio Internacional de Design 2017, DOI: 10.5151/cid2017-15. 10.11.2020 tarihinde http://pdf.blucher.com.br.s3-sa-east-1.amazonaws.com/designproceedings/cid2017/15.pdf adresinden erişildi.
24. Danziger P. (2004). Let Them Eat Cake: Marketing Luxury to The Masses - As Well As The Classes, Dearborn Trade Publishing.
25. Danziger, P. (2019). 3 Ways Millennials and Gen-Z Consumers Are Radically Transforming The Luxury Market, Forbes. 10.11.2020 tarihinde https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2019/05/29/3-ways-millennials-and-gen-z-consumers-are-radically-transforming-the-luxury-market/?sh=1e2be927479f adresinden erişildi.
26. Deloitte. (2019). Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2019. 10.11.2020 tarihinde https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ar/Documents/Consumer_and_Industrial_Products/Global-Powers-of-Luxury-Goods-abril-2019.pdf adresinden erişildi.
27. Dengiz O. (2017). Endüstri 4.0: Üretimde Kavram ve Algı Devrimi, Makina Tasarım ve İmalat Dergisi, Cilt 15, Sayı 1, Mayıs 2017 /39, s:38-45.
28. Glaser M. (2014). Kisses and Smiles: How "Art, Copy & Code" Ad Campaigns Came to Life. 05.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.thinkwithgoogle.com/future-of-marketing/creativity/kisses-and-smiles-burberry-and-volkswagen-ad-campaigns/ adresinden erişildi.
29. Godey, B., Lagier, J. and Pederzoli, D. (2009). "A Measurement Scale of ‘Aesthetic Style’ Applied to Luxury Goods Stores", International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 37, No. 6, pp. 527-537. 10.09.2020 tarihinde https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550910956250 adresinden erişildi.
30. Kansara, V., A. (2016). The Digital Iceberg. Business of Fashion. 15.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/the-digital-iceberg-luxury-fashion-marketing adresinden erişildi.
31. Kapferer, J. N. (2014). The Future of Luxury: Challenges and Opportunities. Journal of Brand Management, 21(9), 716-726.
32. Kapferer J. N. (2016). The Challenges of Luxury Branding. The Routhledge Companion to Contemporary Brand Management. New York: Routhledge Taylor & Francis Group. pp. 473-491.
33. Madsen C. (2020). 5 Things to Know About Balenciaga’s Virtual Reality AW21 Show, British Vogue, 06.12.2020.https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/gallery/balenciaga-autumn-winter-2020?image=5fcd11d794cc0b65da0f151d adresinden erişildi.
34. Manor, I. (2019). Public Diplomacy and The Digital Society, in I. Manor (Ed.), The Digitalization of Public Diplomacy, pp. 29-63. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
35. Milnes H. (2015). How Burberry Became The Top Digital Luxury Brand. 02.10.2020 tarihinde https://digiday.com/marketing/burberry-became-top-digital-luxury-brand/ adresinden erişildi.
36. Mowe S., R. (2020). With Balenciaga’s New Gaming App Afterworld Demna Gvasalia Makes the ‘Quantum Leap’ the Industry Has Been Waiting for. 09.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/balenciaga adresinden erişildi.
37. Retviews (2020). When The Luxury Industry Meets Streetwear: Balenciaga Retail Strategy. 24.12.2020. https://retviews.com/blog/focus/balenciaga-retail-strategy/ adresinden erişildi.
38. Ruse, M. (2016). Biology, Philosophical Speculation about the Concepts, Methods, and Theories of the Biological Sciences. Encyclopedia Britannica. 08.10.2020 tarihinde https://www.britannica.com/topic/philosophy-of-biology#ref1114976 adresinden erişildi.
39. Tkaczyk, J. (2016). Digital Consumer: Trends and Challenges, The Impact of The Digital World on Management And Marketing, Poltext Publishing, pp.353-367.
40. Solca, L., Grippo, M., Lucarelli, G. (2016) Digital Frontier 2016: Digital Luxury is Turning Mainstream. 10.09.2020 tarihinde https://contactlab.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/LuxuryGoods_ContactLab-version-for-CL.pdf adresinden erişildi.
41. Solis, B. (2014). Digital Transformation and The Race Against Digital Darwinism. 07.09.2020 tarihinde https://www.briansolis.com/2014/09/digital-transformation-race-digital-darwinism/ adresinden erişildi.
42. Sonne, P. (2011). Mink or Fox? The Trench Gets Complicated. The Wall Street Journal. 05.11.2020 tarihinde https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052970203804204577013842801187070 adresinden erişildi.
43. The Lyst Index. (2020). Q3 2020 Hottest Brands. 15.12.2020 tarihinde https://www.lyst.com/data/the-lyst-index/q320/ adresinden erişildi.